It is rare to meet someone who has always known what he wanted to do when he was grown up. If then he succeeded, and with excellent results, it is really a joy. We try it by meeting Daniel Canzian, creative and extrovert chef, who identified his vocation as a youngster, in his parents' restaurant: in the kitchen he was happy and he never asked what else to do. A great fortune for the customers of his restaurant in Milan, now, and, first, for those of the Marchesi Group (including Marchesino), where he worked as an executive chef between 2008 and 2013.
Recalling the master Gualtiero, Canzian said: "Among the chefs there are many numbers one, but he was a prime number". Already this simple sentence gives the measure of Daniel's grace. Simple and balanced, sincere and kind as his dishes, use the ladle like a brush to make delicate frescoes. All with the charge and the sympathy of the Venetian true, what after 12 hours of work still wants to have a chat in the room and to answer, to those who ask him how he chooses the wines for his paper: "My kitchen, which tends to be fresh and acidulous, is better suited to mineral wines, rather than very structured ones. The big labels and rich ingredients interest me little. I go towards purity ".
It prefers flour of small mills and in general products of high ethical and palatal value: genuine and close. The km 0 is too limiting, but to buy wasabi for strength when we have a good horseradish made in Italy makes no sense. For our recipe it has foreseen the use of foie gras, because the Christmas period requires a special touch, but Canzian is capable of enchanting even with "simple" lemon risotto, polenta cannoli filled with creamed salted cod, lacquered suckling pigs, crunchy minestrone and delicate mackerels in crust.
Pure made in Italy
It is a champion of "lightness" with its essential recipes and the nice verve. Its goal is nutrition, not just the taste and the spectacularity of the dish. Canzian (38) offers seasonal and family ingredients, good and easy to find. Wines included, that knows well (was born in Conegliano) and loves. He is a member of JRE Italy for only one year, yet It has already been chosen for the association's European committee since 2019. A good opportunity to promote the Italian food and wine scene across the border.
Opened in 2013 in Milan, the Daniel Canzian restaurant is a small oasis of silence in the effervescent Brera area, with an open kitchen and a bright dining room 50 covers, comfortable and "natural". The Right to Stop among the goodies: bring a bottle of special wine, too important to pair it with home-made dishes, and the chef will create an ad hoc menu for the label.
SALAD OF CAPPONE AND FOIE GRAS WITH PARSLEY AND MELAGRANA
for 4 people
capon breast (2 parts) – 2 l of capon broth –
1 whole foie gras, about 500 g (possibly goose) –
Vin Santo (or white passito) – 1 pomegranate – 1 lemon
untreated – extra virgin olive oil – 1 bunch
of organic homegrown parsley – salt – pepper
Prepare the capon Bring the capon broth almost to a boil (it must reach a maximum of 70 ° for the meat does not become stringy): add the turkey breast and cook for 30 minutes. Drain the meat and let it cool.
Marinate the foie gras Open the foie gras in two by making a long incision with a sharp knife without going all the way. Privatelo of any veins helping you with a pincer for fish. Spray it internally and externally in a container with plenty of Vin Santo, salt and pepper. Close the foie gras, wrap it in the foil, prick it and leave it to rest in the fridge for at least 2 hours.
Make the condiment Cut the pomegranate into 2 and, knocking on the cap with a heavy cutlery over a bowl, remove the beans; then gently shell them by pressing the peel inwards. Drain them in a colander, blend half (keeping aside the rest) with the juice collected in the bowl and filter. Whisk the liquid with a whisk pouring a little oil, salt and pepper. Wash, clean and pat the parsley selecting the tender tops and leaves.
Complete the dish Cut the capon breast into very thin slices and season lightly with the pomegranate vinaigrette. Using a knife cut thin slices (of shavings) of foie gras. Make the dish with the turkey slices on one side and the foie gras shavings on top. Put aside some parsley leaves, spread the pomegranates kept aside and serve with the vinagrette.
Silvia Bombelli
photo by Michele Tabozzi
(on the cover: Canzian with the director of Sale & Pepe Laura Maragliano)
December 2018
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