Tag: Michelin

What is the difference between one, two and three Michelin stars – Italian Cuisine

What is the difference between one, two and three Michelin stars

For a restaurant there is no recognition greater than that awarded by the prestigious Michelin star. But what is the difference between one, two and three stars?

The assignment of the prestigious star of the Michelin Guide it is the maximum recognition that a restaurant can get. This historical guide represents, in fact, a fundamental point of reference for those looking for excellence in the catering sector, as well as an ambitious goal that many chefs in the world desire to achieve or increase. Getting or losing a star can really decree the fate of a restaurant, as well as a great responsibility.

Starting from the history of this hallmark of internationally recognized culinary quality, let's find out what the evaluation process consists of, based on what criteria these awards are established and above all the difference between one or more Michelin stars.

The Guide and the Michelin stars, a bit of history

The refined Michelin guide he looked very different when it was launched in the 1900 from the well-known tire company; at the time, in fact, it was created as a paperback for French drivers to find, among other things, decent places to stay and eat while they were traveling. The manual arrives in Italy in 1956, while the first national stars appear in 1959.
At the beginning the Italian restaurants with one star were only 81, while in the edition number 64 of 2019 there are 367, out of almost 3000 in the world. Michelin has always used the appeals for the awarding of stars and the evaluation of restaurants anonymous inspectors visits, kitchen experts, catering and hospitality.

Classification criteria: stars and forks

We can not know exactly what the inspectors are looking for and what the inspectors evaluate, but Michelin claims to observe five criteria bases in the judgment:

1) Product quality
2) Mastery of flavors and cooking techniques
3) The personality of the chef
4) Value for money
5) Consistency between visits

The "stellar" system is also flanked by a less known, albeit important, yardstick, ie the one represented by a fork.
With this symbol, which ranges from 1 to 5, the service, environment, comfort, furnishings, wine list, or, in short, the quality of the experience provided, are evaluated; Michelin has specified, therefore, that all these factors are not considered in the awarding with the stars.

Difference between 1, 2 and 3 stars

Then we come to a crucial aspect for the restaurant and for the customers, that is the meaning of the Michelin stars.
With a star indicates a high quality kitchen where you can feel the hand of the chef, the restaurant deserves a break. Two stars they reward an excellent and high-level cuisine in which the personal touch and skill of the chef are clearly evident, in this case the restaurant deserves a detour. Three stars Finally, they symbolize an exceptional cuisine and impeccable details, which deserves a special trip.

Although a star is a great achievement for a chef, Michelin is keen to point out that the premiums are primarily designed to benefit consumers rather than cooks. Furthermore, in 1997, the guide introduced a prize called "Bib Gourmand" which describes as "not really a star" but a sign of approval for all "friendly facilities that serve good food at moderate prices". However, this it does not mean that a restaurant should be expensive to win a Michelin star, just think of the famous starry dish of Singapore (soy sauce chicken with rice or noodle) that costs less than 2 euros.

Photo: Dessert of the starred restaurant Vertig'O in Genoa_Wikimedia Commons_Hotel de la Paix Genève

The kitchen of the new Michelin star Vincenzo Manicone at the Bistrot – Italian Cuisine

The fake tomato: creamed baccalà with cod mayonnaise, black olives and tomato jelly.

We went to try the Bistrot of Antonino Cannavacciuolo in Novara, led by chef under 30 Vincenzo Manicone, recently a new Michelin star

In Novara, just in the central piazza Martiri della Libertà, where the castle faces, a new Michelin star has arrived: it rewards the Bistrot of Antonino Cannavacciuolo which opened in the Piedmontese city three years ago, entrusting the kitchen management to his young chef Vincenzo Manicone.

We went to see how it is and how it is eaten

The restaurant is on three floors, with some tables outside, on the square, and a nice terrace overlooking the castle, on the second floor. On the ground floor, at the "café" you can stop for an espresso on the fly or opt for a more relaxed breakfast. Many croissants and sweets to choose from, all produced by the "Canavacciuolo Bakery" located not far from the bistro, beyond the square.
The café also offers the opportunity to have lunch with an informal and traditional menu, always on the ground floor. Instead, to follow the gastronomic creations of the chef Vincenzo Manicone, you have to go up to the first and second floor, where the bistro tables are located, in a more intimate and quiet atmosphere.
We had lunch on the second floor, in the inner room, and we chose a 5-course tasting menu.
In addition to the accuracy of the service, we immediately won one of the small welcome morsels, what the chef called Aperitivo all'italiana: it is a creamy peanut, coated with cocoa butter, topped with a small beer jelly. It melts in your mouth, and it's really delicious.

Among others tastings, a pugliese focaccina with tomatoes, a little frisella with sea water and tomato jelly, a bundle of corn with remakes of burrata and escarole gel and, finally, a funny fake tomato: creamed baccalà with cod mayonnaise, black olives and jelly of tomato.

The fake tomato: creamed baccalà with cod mayonnaise, black olives and tomato jelly.
The fake tomato: creamed baccalà with cod mayonnaise, black olives and tomato jelly.

THE'starter It is a raw of amberjack, lying on a "salatino" of papaya, with sesame, salt, mixed salad, shoots.

THE first are mini ravioli del plin with braised veal, composed of bergamot, potato waffles and bergamot, a powder of bergamot oil, with goat's milk sauce and curd (excellent notes of bergamot, combined with the tasty stuffing of meat) and then potato gnocchi (of very particular consistency) with Carmagnola rabbit ragout, vegetable brunoise and cheese and pepper mousse.

Such as second we choose a caplolo pork, with cream of carrots, turnip top gel and crispy turnip tops: crispy and delicious pork rind, in contrast with the meat, very soft and delicate, perfect cooking.

Vincenzo Manicone (photo taken from his Facebook profile).
Vincenzo Manicone (photo taken from his Facebook profile).

After predessert, the chef Vincenzo Manicone wanted to dedicate ourselves as dessert an off-the-menu experience: the Autumn Grove in Novara. Land of chocolate and caramelized black sesame, mushroom with truffle stalk and white chocolate and 70% chocolate cream cappelluccio, a meringue snail and porcini mushroom quenelle, with dried porcini mushrooms, fresh berries and caviar of parsley. With three compotes: orange, persimmon and tonka bean, porcini mushroom. The experience is completed by the scent of fresh moss that is released from the water poured over at the moment (at the base there is a bit of dry ice: it will rise a mist, typical of a grove in the autumn. the trees while it is raining).

We met chef Vincenzo Manicone at the end of our tasting tour, when it was time to snack, on the ground floor of the restaurant, crowded with people ready to indulge in steaming chocolates and sweets: half Pugliese and half of Campania, but born in Varese, Vincenzo he has been in Canavacciuolo's team for 9 years (he worked with him at Villa Crespi) and for three years at the Bistrot Novara, at the helm of a team of 11 people.

the recipe, from trattoria to 3 Michelin stars – Italian Cuisine

It is one of the oldest recipes of the regional tradition. A rustic cooking, homemade, perfect for all white meat, but also for pork, lamb, fish, eggplant … Here's how you do at home, as do the chefs of the trattorias and how they do it Uliassi chef, three Michelin stars

Rosemary, garlic and white wine. It is the basis of the Marche potacchio. And if you read it in the restaurant menus you know it's one of the oldest recipes of the regional tradition. A rustic cooking, housewife, perfect for all white meat, but also for pork, lamb and fish. In the vegan version the same recipe is perfect for aubergines, which after cooking should be left to rest and are even better the next day.
The name potacchio, which derives from the French "potage", that is to cook meat and vegetables together in a "pot", a terracotta pot, entered Italy in the sixteenth century in the form of "potaccio". If you notice it in the menus of the trattorias, especially those of the hinterland of the provinces of Ancona and Macerata, and maybe it's Sunday, then the astral conjunction will be perfect: you can find yourself in front of the scene that most of the Marches lived many times at the table . The Sunday chicken, that cooked by the grandmother, in fact, is strictly in potacchio.

The recipe of chicken in potacchio, (or del galletto)

The Marche cuisine never lingers in complex preparations; It relies on simple ingredients and slow cooking. A historically "subsistence" cuisine where proportions are often established by eye, and cooking times, even if not codified, remain infallible. This is why expressions like "come back in oil" dictate the moment of the end of cooking.
The traditional potacchio tells us about the cook Gianmarco Boemio, for years at the kitchen stoves of typical Marche cuisine. For a whole chicken of about two kilos you need a glass of extra virgin olive oil (that of the crusher is certainly preferable) and a lot of garlic, strictly in shirt. Cut the chicken into pieces, brown the meat in an aluminum pan (well also in copper or cast iron) over a very lively fire. The browning is essential and will end when the chicken is golden. The advice is to avoid non-stick pans because the chicken, including leather, must adhere to the bottom creating a frosting. When it is golden at the right point, salt and pepper will be added to the meat. At this point the chicken should be blended with a glass full of wine. The better the wine, the better the chicken (a Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi with its great structure will be fine) and, once evaporated, it will degrade the bottom of the pan, which will become the bottom of cooking. When the wine is faded, a whole garlic head is added (you will discover that the garlic in a shirt will be as good as the chicken), a bunch of rosemary tied with a string so as not to disperse the needles and, if desired, some chopped tomatoes . At this point the chicken should be covered with water, flush, and continue to cook for about an hour. The cooking will be completed not before the chicken "returns to oil", ie when the water has evaporated completely.

The "Three Stars" potacchio of Mauro Uliassi is from the sea

"The Frog fisherman in potacchio, "Senigallia Farmers' Fashion" is the dish contained in the menu of the chef Mauro Uliassi, also declined in the most eclectic version "the jaw of the rhombus in potacchio". «It is the Marche sauce par excellence, explains the chef, fresh from the third Michelin star. «Born as an ideal cooking for farmyard animals such as rooster, goose, rabbit or pigeon. The women of the Marche countryside, when they had some fish, have slowly begun to treat this raw material in the only way they knew. It is for this reason that the same gravy was also approached to the sea cuisine. Taking up this tradition, I chose the diamond jaw because of its resemblance to the rabbit's shoulder, even in its form .
In the versatile ways of using the potacchio, therefore, the constant is cooking in the wine, both garlic and rosemary. Then, like most traditional recipes, there is personalization. The tomato, to give a touch of color, and the addition of other herbs, such as thyme, or, again, olives. The right wine for the potacchio for Uliassi is a structured white like the Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi or a young Rosso Conero.

The ravioli of potacchio from Andreina

Errico Recanati and another starred chef that has the potacchio in the menu. His ravioli of chicken in potacchio and raspberry vinegar show off in the first. These are handmade ravioli (very thin dough made with 18 eggs per kilo of flour), with a filling made with chicken previously cooked in potacchio. A double consistency for the filling: the boneless chicken is partly minced with a knife and partly reduced to a fine puree. The ravioli are then boiled in water flavored with rosemary and sautéed in the cooking pot of the chicken in potacchio. On top of the crunchy spring onion to give perfume and, next to it, balls of "raspberry caviar" give a nice surprise. Finally, if you prefer, there is the tacos version: that is, the crispy skin of the chicken, for a small "cossy" starter.

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