It is something more than a dish: it is the essence of Piedmontese meat cuisine, with immutable rules. Here are seven places to enjoy it to the fullest
7-7-7: a sequence that has nothing to do with the Jewish Kabbalah or the Neapolitan Grimace. But in fact it tells a magic, that of the Piedmontese mixed boiled meat. Because the recipe – codified by the Confraternita del Bollito e della Pera Madernassa, based in Guarene – foreseessevenmain cuts of beef: soft (long muscle of the shoulder traversed by cartilage), scaramella (white cost of real, high part of real), walnut (thigh muscle), brisket, pointed bow, priest's hat (upper part of the shoulder blade with muscles) and breech (upper part of the rump between sirloin and thigh). Then seven secondary cuts, what the Piedmontese define as'trimmings': tongue, head with muzzle, tail, paw, hen, cotechino, loin. And five more bagnèt or sauces (green, red, mustard, cugnà, honey) although there are texts that include seven, doubling the green one (rich and rustic) and adding the classic horseradish. If that were not enough, they are needed proper side dishes: onions mashed in butter, boiled potatoes, boiled turnips, boiled cabbage leaves, courgettes and fennel sautéed in butter, boiled carrots.
And in the end, it takes the broth
A decidedly demanding recipe for the body of those who consume and prepare it, so much so that at the end you drink one small cup of broth, Made with all the cuts used, with a spoonful of Barbera or with grated cheese. But above all it is a dish that in the traditional recipe is difficult to recreate at home, without a good kitchen and a good experience. This is why it makes sense for boiled meats to go to the Langhe to find it in the complete version or as close to completeness as possible. Let's say a boiled meat of "five cuts and four sauces" but perfectly executed. Hence our selection of places, where obviously you can also taste the specialties that have made the Langhe famous and where you can find valid cellars. There can only be seven, of course. And if you want to pay tribute to the protagonists who sacrifice themselves to make this dish great, the best opportunity is there Carrù Fat Ox Fair to be held on December 16th
Osteria del Borgo – Carrù
The 'den' of the Lubatti family: here the mixed boiled meat is available throughout the year in the canonical version. Tripe and financier are also enjoyable. Cellar with 400 labels, including important ones.
Vessello d'oro – Carrù
It is located in a building in the center and is about to celebrate 135 years of activity. For 40 years, the Cravero family has managed it with passion and competence. Only Piedmontese cuts of meat for the integralist boiled meat.
Modern – Carrù
In spite of the sign, it is a historic place in the town: it dates back to the early 1950s when it hosted the 'breakfasts' of those who dealt with the meat market. Boiled as impeccable as the tajarin and plin
Trattoria del Bollito – Alba
Certainty on the subject, just outside the historic center. People also come to taste fresh pasta, but the best is represented by the traditional boiled meat cart with sauces. Modern tavern environment.
Hope – Farigliano
An old trattoria that Maurizio Quaranta, a renowned chef in Alba, has brought back to the best of times. Here the gastronomic memory of the Langhe – including boiled meat – is revisited with class and touches of the author.
Boccondivino – Bra
This is where the history of Italian cuisine was made, given that Slow Food was born in its courtyard – 34 years ago. In the kitchen, time has stopped: local recipes and products almost all of the Presidii. The boiled meat is very classic.
Moon in the Well – Neive
The reference in the Langa del Barbaresco, where the mixed boiled meat is served throughout the cold season. The seven classic pieces arrive on the table, inside a large cocotte, immersed in hot broth. It is drunk very well.
A great classic of Italian cuisine: the history, the rules, where to eat it best and the recipe of San Giors di Torino to prepare it at home. Bee sauce included
The boiled it is the Piedmontese winter dish: a ritual that, one could say, has always dressed the table. Whenever the fog thickens between the hills of Langa, Roero and Monferrato, the harvests of the great reds leave time to age and the houses are enriched with that warmth that only the colder seasons can give. They call him His Majesty the Boiled and, in fact, the preparation and presentation have to do with wealth, but not opulence.
The rules of Piedmontese mixed boiled meat
Wealth of sauces and pieces of meat, variety of flavors: this is the secret of the Piedmontese mixed boiled meat. Loved by King Vittorio Emanuele II together with tajarin, game, bagna caoda and chopped hard-boiled eggs served with parsley and oil, the great Piedmontese boiled meat follows, in the best tradition, strict rules: it is accompanied by particular contours (baby onions mashed in butter, boiled potatoes, boiled turnips, boiled cabbage leaves, courgettes and fennel sautéed in butter, boiled carrots); is composed by seven cuts of pulp (pointed bow, priest's hat, walnut, brisket, breech, tender, scaramella), seven secondary cuts (cotechino, tail, head, tongue, zampino, hen, loin) e baby baths, or traditional sauces (green sauce, tomato and anchovy sauce, sauce with mustard, grape mustard, bee sauce). At the end of the meal, according to tradition, one should be served cup of hot broth made with all the cuts used, and it is also essential that each meat is cooked separately from the others and immersed in boiling water: the pieces should be tied and fenced with a few cloves and put in salted water with onion, celery, carrot , whole garlic (which will then be removed) and rosemary.
These are the basic rules, as recalled by theAcademician of Italian Cuisine Giovanni Goria, then there are the variants because it is unthinkable that everything described can be served for a meal. The boiled meat, which in the Langa also boasts a Confraternity aimed at its enhancement established in 1984 in Castagnito and Guarene (Cn), has Carrù Fat Ox Fair the culmination of his expression. This year the historic and anticipated event will be held on December 16 and, as usual, it will not be unusual to see queues of people ready to enjoy the renowned Piedmontese boiled meat (as well as tripe soup, Morozzo capon, Borgo San Dalmazzo snails, Cervere leek, green anchovies, raw meat, cheeses and hazelnut-based desserts) from the first light of dawn. After all, Piedmontese beef is one of the finest in Italy and, precisely in Carrù, the first news relating to livestock markets dates back to 1473, even if it is with Duke Vittorio Amedeo I that the history of this event took its its start. In fact, it was he who granted a decree to the citizens to organize an annual cattle fair to be held for three days in November, after the feast of San Carlo, even if only in 1910 the municipal administration established the fair of the fat ox as it is intended. today. Only Piedmontese breed cattle for slaughter can participate in the event, weighing up to fourteen quintals, divided between oxen, steers, calves, calves, bulls, bulls, cows and heifers. Technicians, butchers, breeders and veterinarians come together to compose the juries that will determine the best garments to which will be awarded, in the Foro Boario of the market square, over one hundred prizes divided between saddlecloths, a true and coveted symbol of victory, hand-decorated bands, gold medals, trophies and diplomas: in short, oxen and steers will parade triumphantly on the catwalk like real stars.
Tips for preparing boiled meat
But how to prepare a boiled meat comme il faut? We asked Paolo Ribotto, chef of the San Giors restaurant in Turin who offers it continuously from October until June: “The first rule – he comments – is that each piece of meat is boiled separately and with certain cooking times. We use nine different cuts (head, tongue, tail, ugly and good, muscle, scaramella, hen, cotechino, salami di turgia – salami produced in Canavese and in the Lanzo valleys with meat from cows now at the end of their career, ed) ranging cooked slowly from 7 hours of tail and head to chicken or cured meat time ". Fundamental rule to prepare the broth in which to dip the meat with celery, carrot and onion. "There are seven sauces – he continues – green bangetto, rubra, cougnà, horseradish sauce, bee sauce, fruit mustard, mustard in grains to which we also add coarse salt because many customers like to taste it on meat". A characteristic of San Giors is the accompaniment: "Here – concludes Ribotto – we serve the boiled meat dipped in its broth in a red-hot clay pot and separately we offer the ravioli del plin which must be placed in the broth and, while the customer eats, they finish cooking before being tasted separately. In addition to the plins, we accompany the course with mashed potatoes and leafy vegetables sautéed in butter ".
And among the most popular boiled meats in Turin there is also the one proposed by Madama Piola, the bistro led by the starred Christian Milone. Here we serve biancostat (scaramella), shaved head, tongue, cotechino and chicken accompanied by four sauces: green and red bath, mayonnaise and mustard.
"The piece that should never be missing in the boiled meat – declares the chef who has his headquarters at the Trattoria Zappatori in Pinerolo – is the cut of the scaramella because it is a little fatter than the brisket and is less fat than the belly therefore in all the interesting characteristics of boiled meats can be found in just one cut ". And if at the Ponte Barra restaurant the boiled meat cart is an institution that can be eaten every Wednesday and every Sunday by reservation, in Carrù, on the other hand, one of the undisputed destinations is the Vascello d'Oro: here the Gran Bollito Misto is served in seven cuts (scaramella, brisket, head, tongue, tail, cotechino and hen) with extra virgin olive oil and coarse salt and accompanied by its sauces (bagnet verd, bagnet russ, spicy mustard, horseradish, cugnà and avie sauce ).
Mixed boiled meat, the recipe of chef Paolo Ribotto
Ingrediants: 400 gr of head 400 gr of tail 400 gr of hen 300 gr of tongue 300 gr of bad and good 300 gr of cotechino 300 grams of turgia salami 250 grams of muscle 250 gr of candy celery, carrots and onions to taste
Method: Prepare the broth by adding celery, carrots and onions to the water, then start cooking the meat over moderate heat and in different pots starting with the longest cuts: tail and head between 6 and 7 hours; language for 6 hours; muscle, bad and good and scaramella for 5 or 6 hours; hen 1 or 2 hours; cotechino and salami di turgia the necessary, but less than all other cuts of meat. You can start in the morning so that in the evening the boiled meat is ready to be portioned and eaten the following day. It is essential in cooking that the meat is always immersed in the broth and that it cooks over very low heat. The indicated doses of meat may seem excessive, but after they are cooked the weight will be considerably lower and right for four diners.
Bee sauce, the recipe of chef Paolo Ribotto
Ingrediants: 100 gr of hazelnuts 40 gr of honey 70 gr of sweet mustard
Method: Crush the hazelnuts until they are reduced to a puree, then add the honey and mustard a little at a time and mix everything together.
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