Tag: maker

Sfoglia Rina: the 2.0 pasta maker who saves tradition – Italian Cuisine


From a small suburban laboratory to restaurants with a pasta factory where you can rediscover fresh pasta. Better than that of tradition. In Bologna and Casalecchio you can eat it there, buy it fresh to take away or receive it at home with delivery

It all started in 1963 in a small fresh pasta shop in Casalecchio di Reno. Rina De Franceschi studies her recipes, refines her techniques and builds a good reputation by folding tortellini and rolling out fresh pasta, first by herself, then together with a group of ladies and 40 years later with their grandson Lorenzo, who as a boy supports his grandmother in the family workshop, learns the secrets and recipes until he inherits the art of fresh egg pasta. Today Lorenzo Scardellari is the current owner of Sfoglia Rina, an e two restaurants with a pasta factory in Bologna and Casalecchio di Reno, and proud successor of the family lineage that managed to survive – and indeed, make it cool – a profession and flavors that risked disappearing.

Artisan pasta factories: a family history

Artisan pasta factories, even in Bologna, are disappearing, a bit like rezdore and many traditional crafts. The taste in eating has changed, but above all the eating habits and the way of shopping. Not the devotion to fresh pasta, however, which simply had to evolve into a new form, without changing the substance. Sometimes you need to look at things from another point of view, and that's what Lorenzo managed to do together with Catherine, Belgian and Bolognese by adoption. "I took over the pasta factory with my mother Vanda and with the help of Catherine. We knew that that popular suburban pasta factory would not survive, and we understood that we had to innovate. Not the recipes or the way of making pasta, but the customers and the way to sell it. The idea came to Catherine, "explains Lorenzo. Catherine had come to town to go to university and at the time – says Lorenzo – she didn't even know how to make pasta. "She threw the pasta into the still cold water and waited for it to boil, but even my grandmother Rina didn't know how to make pasta as a girl". Catherine explains: "Yes, I came to Bologna from Belgium to go to university. Then I fell in love with Italy, its cuisine, the will to live and enjoy it of the Emilians. I fell in love with Lorenzo and I never left . And today, thanks to them, Sfoglia Rina was born.

Why not add a space where customers can also eat freshly cooked pasta? The idea is inspired by the bakeries of Northern Europe where, in addition to buying bread, one stops to consume it in a convivial space. "The idea was to have only one social, convivial table. And as she told me about it, she reminded me of that table where grandmothers, aunts, cousins ​​and elderly people worked. That table was the center of the kitchen: there we prepared, worked and ate , says Lorenzo. In 2010, the opportunity finally presents itself: the space next to the shop is freed up and the first restaurant of Sfoglia Rina opens in Casalecchio; in 2015 they arrive in Bologna. The format is simple: one hot table, where you can have lunch with a good plate of fresh pasta, perhaps chatting with the other diners seated at the large central table. It is an instant hit.
However, the soul of the place has not changed, Catherine continues: "We are a pasta factory with kitchen, we don't call ourselves a restaurant. Because we have remained what we were, a classic shop with a table where the dough is processed and a counter to sell it. Only now we eat on the table, and we make the puff pastry in Zola Predosa's laboratory . Even the idea of ​​selling cooked dishes is not really that new, because this was already the case in Rina's time, in which lasagna and other gastronomy preparations were also sold in the pasta factories.

Fresh pasta: better than once

"When they tell me your tortellini are like your grandmother's, I know I've hit the mark, even if I know it's not true." Cooking is a memory made up of smell, taste, touch, emotion and feeling. The tortellini, compared to those of Rina, are better for us today thanks to a frantic search for raw materials , explains Lorenzo, actively involved in the production, while Catherine takes care of the menus and the catering part. They select local or regional products, with few exceptions, such as free-range eggs in shells from Orlandini (Sesto Imolese) and traditional flours from Villa Romiti (Forlì), which uses only Emilia-Romagna grains. The sfogline put their hands in the dough to produce, following the ancient tradition, a wide range of products that are always genuine and tasty. Tradition and some innovative recipes that follow the seasonality and creativity of the moment: filled pasta, long or short pasta, pasta al torchio, baked pasta and handmade products ranging from the most classic tortellini to proposals such as vegan and gluten free dishes.

In restaurants: buy or eat

The menu splits in two. On the one hand, the classics of typical Bolognese cuisine: the king tortellino strictly in broth or in its greedy variant with Parmesan zabaione; the vegetarian tortellone, served with butter and sage; the “divine” tagliatella covered with ragù; the more “rustic” gramigna with sausage ragù; the "poor" flat noodle made up by grandmother served in a fusion way; the “rich” lasagna, an explosion of taste and sublime balance between puff pastry, béchamel and meat sauce; and, finally, for those who want to "escape" from pasta, tigelle accompanied by cheeses and mixed cold cuts.

Fresh pasta at home

However, fresh pasta can also be bought raw, to be cooked, at the restaurant counter or received at home. The choice ranges from tortellini, tortelloni with ricotta and parsley, balanzoni, tagliatelle, green weed, potato gnocchi and the classic lasagna. Then there are the seasonal proposals such as pumpkin tortelli, ricotta and spinach, cappellacci stuffed with broccoli and potatoes (vegan) or cappelletti with sausage and artichokes, lasagna with artichokes and pecorino and then sauces such as meat sauce and the legendary jar of zabaione al parmesan. In short, tradition: which however has evolved to become modern and practical delivery.

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Traveling with Aaron, a young ice cream maker – Italian Cuisine


He is the protagonist of Nicola Lecca's latest novel, The Crystal Train. Our service "Desire for ice cream" made us think of him (page 30 of the June issue, now on newsstands), and with him we set off to discover some great cities in northeastern Europe

After these times of past enclosure and concern, we appreciate even more the value of the encounters and the beauty of travel. Fortunately, a writer friend, Nicola Lecca, recently published the novel The crystal train.

Nicola Lecca

The protagonist is an ice cream apprentice who works at Morelli, a historic Italian ice cream parlor in Broadstairs, among the oldest in the United Kingdom. Really existing: Nicola is often inspired by places he visits firsthand. Today the ice cream shop also has a Harrod's corner.

How come an ice cream maker?

"I am very fond of ice cream," replied Nicola Lecca. “And then, as well as for the young bartender who is the protagonist of The pyramid of coffee, I wanted to choose the point of view of a humble person. But capable of creating delicacies, of knowing how to recognize and savor them with pleasure, as Aaron does in the novel ".

A journey through flavors

So let's start with Aaron to discover the capitals of Europe, where we can't physically go today, due to coronavirus. But a well-written book knows how to make you travel the same and Nicola uses words like a florist, chooses them first one by one and then puts them together in colorful and exciting bouquets, transporting you far and wide through the cities and emotions. Among the pages I also found those pleasures that have long been precluded: a tour of the markets, a lunch in a restaurant, a stop in a cafe. A red thread of perfumes, flavors, dishes, spices and sweets crosses the novel, confirming the centrality of the food for Nicola's pen, who always describes it with much love and meticulous detail, making it alive for all our senses.

Here, I'm ready, I have comfortable shoes and a bag: I'm leaving with Aaron, a young ice cream maker. I anticipate some of the delights that he encounters on his journey, after leaving the spinach with butter in his home in Broadstairs, England, browned "with chopped almonds and raisins".

In Hamburg Aaron tastes a "spicy green curry that will make him tear … Ginger, emerald peppers, okra and tiger prawns float harmoniously in a sea enclosed by a blue bowl."

In Prague, where the freshly fallen snow is "like a sugar crust, and breaks under the feet with the delicacy of meringues", stops in a cafe and orders "delicious sweets with pistachios, almonds and orange peel".

In Bratislavahungry, he wants the sweet "brimming with whipped cream and covered with caramel" that a pastry chef has just put on display.

In Zagreb Aaron immerses himself in the Dolac market, “a place overflowing with colors, scents and Eastern European charm. On the old counters, choreographically exposed, there are Istrian hams, green and pink lentils, walnuts, mint, dried porcini mushrooms, as well as a special bread mixed with lard and sesame seeds ". The market also continues outside and "Further on, just in front of the cathedral, Aaron sees the ancient pink of mountain potatoes, the golden of shelled walnuts and the ocher yellow of dried corn on the cob. There is the red of chilies – exposed in long braids. And there is the streaked white of freshly shelled beans. "

The next day, in a large hotel, a "ladies' breakfast" full of "a thousand delicacies that parade before him. Small croissants filled with gianduia cream, pistachio macaron, milk flan garnished with rose petals, cups filled with currants, salmon tartare, raspberries and champagne ".

After these tastings, all that remains is to find out what happens to Aaron during his gastronomic explorations. And if the Morelli ice cream shop intrigued you, plan a future trip to Broadstairs: honeycomb recommended flavor, a specialty invented at the beginning of the twentieth century.

Nicola Lecca,
The Crystal train
Mondadori, 18 euros
Available online and in e-books

Homemade ice cream without ice cream maker in 3 minutes – Italian Cuisine


Homemade ice cream without ice cream maker? Very easy, the secret lies in a single ingredient that will allow you to prepare ice cream in a few minutes. Try the recipe by Emanuele Frigerio, pastry chef at La Scuola de La Cucina Italiana

How do you do it prepare homemade ice cream without ice cream maker in the easiest and fastest way possible? The only thing to do is always have some frozen banana in the freezer!

That of banana ice cream it is a very easy technique, which allows you to obtain an exquisite frozen banana cream. The banana, in fact, contains very little water and greater pectin, a substance that allows you to "gelatify". With a frozen banana, even a little old, we can really make homemade ice cream creamy simply with the use of a mixer.

It is an ideal way to prepare one quick and healthy snack, but above all for recycle leftover fruit or that too much mature. Follow below our ice cream maker's recipe without ice cream maker Emanuele Frigerio and don't miss the advice to change it according to your taste!

Emanuele Frigerio's recipe for ice cream without ice cream maker

Emanuele Frigerio's recipe for making ice cream at home does not include sugar for sweetening, but i dates. The banana base is enriched with the taste of other fruit, in this case the strawberries!

Ingredients

80 g Banana (about half)
50 g Strawberries (about 3)
50 ml Milk
3 Dates

Method

Freeze the banana and strawberries for a few hours in the freezer. Cut the fruit into small pieces and blend them together with the dates and milk, using a mixer with small pulses. Ice cream is ready to be enjoyed!

Homemade banana ice cream: the possibilities

The recipe of homemade ice cream can be modified according to the ingredients available or according to your tastes. First of all, to make sweet ice cream you can use it sugar or the honey.

Other types of fruit can also be added to the frozen banana base, such as i blueberries and the raspberries, but also peanut butter, caramel or even bits of avocado to color the ice cream green. You can also prepare the coffee ice creamby simply replacing milk with cold coffee.

homemade ice cream

And for those who just can't resist the call of ice cream aL chocolate? Here are some possibilities: you can add le banana to the ice cream chocolate chips, or add the ingredients to the recipe cocoa, but in this case you will have to add more liquid, about 5 grams of milk for each gram of cocoa.

A trick to improve consistency ice cream? Also freeze the cubed milk before blending!

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