Long before the Italians produced ham and the Spanish their jamón, the Chinese were producing their own raw ham in the small city of Jinhua, from which he has kept the name. The production of this Chinese ham, harder and more salty than that known in the West, dates back to the distant kingdom of the Tang dynasty and was later discovered by Marco Polo. Jinhua ham is still an important ingredient of traditional national cuisineIt is, for example, widely used for flavoring stewed, braised and soups, and is considered the best ham in the country.

History of Huo tui, the first ham in history

In ancient China, and more precisely in the eastern province of Zhejiang, the first ham of the world was produced. The origin is traced back to the period 618-907 BC. while the discovery of this exceptional local ingredient by Marco Polo took place in the 13th century. The hind legs of a breed of pigs native to China called "the two black ends", famous for the excellent quality of the meat, were commonly worked and salted by soldiers in Jinhua to undertake long journeys during the war, and it was the imperial scholar Zong Ze who introduced him to the Emperor of the Song Dynasty Gaozong. Gaozong was so in love with the intense flavor of the ham and its red color who decided to call him huo tui, or "leg of fire".

What you need to know about this ancient Chinese ham

The taste and texture of Jinhua ham has very little to do with hams, cooked or raw, to which we are accustomed, such as San Daniele. We forget the sweetness and softness of Italian ham cut into thin slices; the Chinese one is harder and salty, and therefore more complicated to use in the kitchen. Unlike the Italian tradition of the antipasto or the Spanish tapas, it is not in fact considered in itself a main course that can be served sliced ​​in a dish, but rather a sort of flavor enhancer. In the museum of ham in the city of Jinhua is not only explained the local historical craftsmanship process, but also the differences between Chinese ham and Italian, French, Spanish, British and American ham.

The long method of preparing Chinese ham

The traditional process of making Jinhua ham required about 8-10 months to be completed, and well 36 procedures, including dressing, peeling, salting, washing, drying, fermentation and the final olfactory examination. After the ham leg is cleaned and seasoned, it is salted six times, with an interval of 25-35 days between each salting. Then follows the fermentation process, during which the ham is stored in a cool and dark place for 6-8 months so that it can develop its typical aroma and flavor. The final step, known as odor verification, consists of inserting a bamboo stick or a sharp bone into the meat; once the stick is removed, the aroma is evaluated to check the quality of the product. Thanks to new processing techniques, which include temperature and humidity regulation, the total time needed has been reduced to one period of 1-2 months.

Where to find it and how to use it in the kitchen

It is not easy to find Jinhua ham outside of China, even in many countries, including the United States, it is forbidden. In China this handicraft product is not available in supermarkets, but it is possible to buy it in city markets, often located in historic and older neighborhoods, in street vendors, in some stores specialized in local dried meat or sold whole and at a more expensive price at some restaurants. It is good to know that of the Chinese ham there are different types on the market, which vary depending on the level of salting and flavor.
In Chinese cuisine, this ingredient, as we have seen, is typically used to enrich soups or broths, but nowadays it is also used to flavor potato chips or eaten in pieces like snacks to eat between two slices of bread, to be accompanied with a little wine or a beer.

Photo: ham origin in China at Jinhua_wikipedia_helennawindylee.jpg
Photo: Buddha soup boul_Chinese soup with ham_Wikipedia_SunSuke.jpg