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Inimitable Gragnano PGI pasta – Italian Cuisine

Inimitable Gragnano PGI pasta


It's the only one pasta in Europe to be protected as IGP (Protected geographical indication) by the EU. And probably also the one with the smallest production area: only 15 km square. A double record of which the inhabitants of Gragnano they are proud, because it recognizes the secular pastoral tradition of this Neapolitan country, narrow between the Lattari Mountains and the Tyrrhenian Sea, along what has been called "the valley of the mills". It is precisely this geographical position that made it capital Italian pasta: since ancient times the abundant water of the many springs in the mountains was channeled to feed the many mills destined for the grinding of semolina, which then came worked in dozens and dozens of small family-run pasta factories. THE "Macaroni" they were then left to dry in the open, lying in the sun like the laundry also on the main course of the country, taking advantage of the particular microclimate, from the mild temperatures and the high rate of humidity dictated by the encounter between the currents coming from the sea and the mountains. In this way a pasta was obtained that could "hold up" the long months of travel in steamer, without losing in quality, necessary to arrive even in the United States. And bring the name of into the world Gragnano and the taste of Italian cuisine.

PGI to protect tradition and quality
It is therefore an absolutely natural "recipe", expression of the genius loci, the one that made Gragnano pasta famous, bringing it to the tables more discerning, like that of the Bourbons in Naples, also thanks to one of the first lines railway of the peninsula. And it is a "recipe" impossible to replicate elsewhere. As attested by the IGP seal – a hand holding a bundle of gold-colored ears of corn on a blue background – present on each package: is the warranty of the link with the territory and compliance with the production rules indicated in the disciplinary filed with the EU. How do the 14 local pasta factories that adhere to the Consortium for the protection of Pasta di Gragnano IGP. Small companies crafts and large producers share the defense of local tradition but also jealously keep their business secrets. Let's see discover (at least) some.

Quality semolina and spring water. And nothing else
Semolina of durum wheat and water: the miracle of pasta and its countless formats (an estimated one hundred) is all here. Obviously, then, that to get a product excellent serve a quality durum wheat and awater fresh spring, combined with the mastery of pasta makers, which are handed down the knowledge from generation to generation (in fact in the pasta factories of Gragnano the work passes from father to son).
To keep its fame high, Gragnano PGI pasta can only be produced with semolina of high-grade durum wheat protein (which is selected all over the world) and with a maximum of 30% of water local stratum. To give it the desired shape (the most traditional is the fusillo al ferretto) only the traditional bronze dies are used, which give it the characteristic rugosity. Great care is also devoted to another very delicate step: drying, which can be carried out both continuously and discontinuous, but that must happen slowly (up to 60 hours) and at low temperature (40 to 80 ° C), so that the dough remains elastic and have a good and long cooking time. And keep the perfume and the taste of ripe wheat.

A premium pasta that has won over chefs and gourmets
Packaged within 24 hours of production, the pasta of Gragnano Igp it has an annual production of around 52 thousand tons, which 38% are sent around the world. The rest is distributed in Italy, both in stores of specialty food is in many chains of modern distribution, where it is sold under the brands of the producers or those of the distribution chains. Although the most interesting and fun way to buy it is to go directly to the pasta factories of Gragnano, which open their doors to visitors (for information you can contact the Consortium for protection) or participate in the traditional Pasta Festival, which animates the town in October and which allows you to go even to discover the valley of the mills. In any case, buy it at the factory, at supermarket or at the discount store, it remains a pasta of high end, inserted among the "premium", those that are going for the most and have increasing sales. In fact, in 2018 purchases of Gragnano pasta PGI have increased by almost 10%. This pasta does not end only in our homes but also in the kitchens of many famous chef. Starting with Alfonso Iaccarino who made Gragnano spaghetti seasoned with fresh tomato fillet flat-flag. A recipe that has also won the diffident Pellegrino Artusi. Because of its digestibility, the "father" of Italian cuisine even defined it "Balsamic pasta". Over time the name became "Pasta barzanella" but the recipe has remained the same. And the pleasure of eating it as always.

Manuela Soressi
October 2019

DISCOVER THE COOKING COURSES OF SALT & PEPE

Red, seasoned, hot: inimitable Tabasco – Italian Cuisine

Red, seasoned, hot: inimitable Tabasco


And the spicy sauce most famous in the world. And even the one with the most attempts at imitation: it's 150 years that the Tabasco is (unnecessarily) copied. That is since, just after the end of the Civil War, in sunny Louisiana, Edmund McIlhenny tries to grow Capsicum frutescens seeds from the Mexican region of Tabasco Mexico, which were given to him by a traveler passing. Passionate about food, there sowing in the grounds around his Avery island house which, despite its name, is not surrounded by the sea but by swampy waters. But then the outbreak of civil war American forces him to flee. When he returns, years later, he finds the lands covered by chili Peppers in bloom. And the production is so abundant from push to make it a spicy sauce, using only two other "domestic" ingredients: the vinegar and the salt from the mines brought as a dowry by his wife. The recipe pleases, and much, to the point that it becomes famous throughout the Louisiana and so the enterprising McIlhenny decides to patent it and produce its large scale. within three years the Tabasco crosses the Atlantic and arrives in Europe. A great one success, immediate. But McIlhenny could never have imagined that, at the beginning of the third millennium, his sauce would have been sold as well 185 countries and labeled in 22 different languages?

From Louisiana with flavor
Today again Avery Island is the heart of Tabasco production, carried out by the descendants of McIlhenny (we are in the fifth generation of the family) using the recipe developed in the distant 1868 and the same three ingredients. They are the same members as family to select the best plants, whose seeds are treated, dried and stored in a vault, because they represent the "treasure" and the future of thecompany. The seeds are grown in greenhouse and only the best are transplanted to the fields. And when they begin to bear fruit, a member of the McIlhenny family inspects the peppers, evaluating them color and consistency. In fact one of the "secrets" of the goodness of the Tabasco it is the ability to identify the time of picking peppers, which occurs only when they are ripe at the right point, red and perfect. The control it is done in the traditional way: that is using a special stick with the shade of red that the berries must have. And only those that have the same color as the "petit bâton rouge"Can be collected, strictly by hand. The peppers must be processed within a few hours of harvesting. Indeed, on the same day they come collected, are transported to the factory where they are crushed and placed in white oak barrels together with a small amount of salt. As the first phase of fermentation is active, in the barrels holes are created and a layer of salt is placed on the lid so that the vapors and gases can escape but without being able to infiltrate theair (or external contamination).

For the Tabasco it takes time (three years)
The Tabasco is not a fast sauce, in fact it is really slow: the peppers must "Seasoned" for three years because just so long macerating succeed to concentrate and develop all their intense and incomparable taste. And, in fact, the fermentation they undergo to give the Tabasco the flavor and texture that it is feature. After 36 months, the barrels are opened and inspected: if the content exceeds the maturity test, it is mixed with quality white vinegar and left to rest for another four weeks, during which it is cured with attention. In the end the sauce it is filtered and subjected to a final quality control. Only the one that exceeds it becomes Tabasco: it is packaged in the classic red bottle cap fromlabel diamond-shaped and shipped throughout world.

Very hot experiences offered
Over the years at the Tabasco "original" other four versions have been added, which are distinguished by the recipe but, also, by the different degree of spiciness. Most mild (600-1200 Shu- Scoville heat units) is the green Tabasco, prepared with chillies jalapenos. For its fresh but intense taste, it is ideal with fish, vegetables and White meat and it is also inevitable in the classics of Mexican cuisine, such as burrito, tacos and guacamole. Climbing up the spicy scale, we meet Garlic (1200-1800 Shu), the Chipotle (1500-2500) and the classic Rojo (2500-5000). At the top, for those who love strong emotions, there is the Tabasco Habanero (5000-8000) in which these famous chillies very hot they mix with the sweet notes of mango, banana and papaya, and with the spicy touch of ginger and black pepper, giving the recipes a caribbean really special touch.

Ever tried it in ceviche?
Any ideas to enhance the Tabasco? Use it to give a hot touch to meat and grilled fish, fried eggs and potatoes boil, and also to vegetable creams and soups. Add it to the mayonnaise in the filling of the sandwiches or even put it on the pizza, instead of the spicy oil. Seafood and crustaceans marry very well with the spicy notes of Tabasco, to try on ceviche and tuna tartare, and on oysters. And then there is the whole world of mixology, the art of creating i cocktail selecting the ingredients and mixing them with creativity. Bartenders know that this famous hot sauce is essential in many recipes. Unthinkable to imagine a Bloody Mary or a Prairie Oyster without the warm touch of Tabasco. Seafood and shellfish go very well with the spicy notes of Tabasco to try on ceviche and tartare di tuna fish, or cuttlefish seasoned with a sweet and sour honey-based sauce e Tabasco and the very successful combination of Oysters and Tabasco just a few drops of sauce to give this union a spicy thrill.

Manuela Soressi
October 2019

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