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The hidden elegance of onion soup – Italian Cuisine

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Let's discover the many variations – geographical, historical and gastronomic – of a legendary dish, a little rustic and a little noble. Loved by many, it is rich in taste, simple and evocative




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One of the fundamentals of comfort food is “niente nourishes the soul as a soup". And the onion soup meets all the requirements of a comfort dish: hot, hearty, tasty and fragrant, it has a history as rich as its taste.

Ancient folk roots
ORoriginally it was consideredto food from poor: simple to do (onions were plentiful and economic, easy to grow and simple to store), soupy and hot, with the addition of a few pieces of stale bread it represented a substantial and cheap meal. All characteristics that made it popular already in Roman times and that facilitated its spread throughout the Middle Ages, when various variations of this soup took hold on the Continent. The discovery of America saw onion soup land also overseas, as they demonstrate the first texts of British and American colonial cuisine who always mention it. Curiously, it is absent unjustified itlla Culinary guide by Escoffier (1903).

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From food for laborers to Julia Child
There most famous of all, the French soupe to the oignon with the classic topping of bread and cheese, has its roots neitherthe sopsmedieval, where the daily meal of the poor classes which consisted of vegetable broth poured over pieces of bread: la recipe we know today based on caramelized onions in a rich beef brothit is a direct descendant of the modern French broth made in the 17th century.
In Paris, until the 1970s, onion soup – "reinforced" with the pig's foot in the broth and small pieces of meat between the onions – was the dish with which the night owls and dockers of the Halles, the markets, refreshed themselves at dawn general. In fact, it seems that the all-French touch of gratin with cheese is due to the restaurateurs of the Les Halles district, transforming it into the universally known Soupe à l'Oignon Gratinée des Halles or simply Gratinée des Halles, calorie food for the unloaders of the market and, it is said, hangover cure-all for the viveur come out of the Parisian cabarets.
In the 1960s, with the arrival at the White House of the Kennedys – lovers of French cuisine – and with the enormous success of Julia Child's 'Mastering the Art of French Cooking' cookbook, the soupe to the oignon it enjoyed renewed interest from Americans who, perhaps unaware of its humble origins, elevated it to an extremely chic dish.

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French or English?
Here the difference is made by the ingredients. Both French and English onion soup use slow cooker caramelized onions and a broth base, and both feature a hearty slice of crusty bread and lots of melted cheese. However, the French version always wants beef broth, baguette and Swiss cheese, Emmental or gruyere. For the English version, any type of broth (beef, chicken or vegetables) is fine, with any rustic bread, but the cheese is the very same Cheddar. French onion soup specifies coppery onions (sometimes red, often with added potatoes), while English onion soup requires a combination of white and red onions, scallions and leeks – Jamie Oliver encourages "getting as many different types of onions as possible. be possible ”for his onion soup recipe. Most French soups will also use sherry, red wine or, in Julia Child's case, Cognac to flavor. Sometimes, English onion soup recipes include Worcestershire sauce. Both versions are scented with aromatic herbs, thyme in French and sage in English. To remain within the Anglo-Saxon context, there is also one Irish version, whether in the form of soup – with garlic and Guinness Extra Stout (added to caramelized onions, before pouring the meat broth), Cheddar or Dubliner cheese – both in cream, with the addition of cream, a little mustard and apple juice.

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To Tuscany …
Known as carabaccia, this Florentine onion soup has ancient origins: its name derives from the Greek karabos, a term that means shell, concave container, arriving at the phrase "carabazada" (literally soup tureen), a name coined by Cristoforo Da Messiburgo, director of the canteen at the Este Court of Ferrara, in his recipe book "New book in which we teach how to make all sorts of food"In the sixteenth century. The original recipe for this onion soup, which apparently was a favorite of Leonardo da Vinci, included, in addition to the Certaldo red onion, also almonds, vinegar of agresto (vinegar made from sour grapes), cinnamon and sugar. Today the carabaccia is prepared in a modern version, where the white and red onions are soaked for a night in water and vinegar (so that they lose their pungent smell), stewed and served with toast and plenty of cheese melted in the oven ( parmesan and sweet provola). Fluid but not soupy, the carabaccia in some of its variants sees the addition of peas or broad beans, and / or eggs. It is said that, when in 1533 Caterina de 'Medici brought an army of cooks with her to France to prepare the Tuscan dishes she loved, among these there was the carabaccia which, as soon as it was imported from beyond the Alps, was immediately transformed into the very classic soupe à l'oignon.

… And Neapolitan style
The perhaps little known Neapolitan onion soup finds its identity in the use of local and particular ingredients such as the Ramata di Montoro onion, a typical product of the provinces of Avellino and Salerno with a sweet and aromatic taste. The Neapolitan version of the soup also wants cherry tomatoes, possibly Piennolo del Vesuvio; sometimes pieces of bacon are also cooked with onions and, to finish, in the last few minutes a few eggs are shelled directly into the boiling soup, cooking it poached.

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The magic of onion soup is in the air, as is its characteristic scent. If your mouth is watering, as it has come to us, here are a couple of ideas to satisfy it immediately, from soupe à l'oignon au gratin to the unusual version with pecorino.

Bon appétit!

Francesca Tagliabue

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Posted on 29/01/2022

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Umami: the hidden taste of Parmesan cheese – Italian Cuisine

Umami: the hidden taste of Parmesan cheese

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An Italian excellence dealing with a Japanese-inspired cuisine, where the fifth taste plays a fundamental role. A special experience from Aalto Part of Iyo to discover an extra side of our most famous cheese

An Italian, unless he is denied for food or hates cheese, knows that Parmesan cheese is good and also good. We are not going to list the multiple properties that make it an ally in everyone's diet, from children to the elderly, passing by sportsmen who find this cheese a totally natural energy charge. However, not everyone knows who the Parmesan cheese is among the richest foods of Umamithat is, that savory and pleasant taste that tickles the taste buds and makes the sensorial experience unforgettable. One of the five fundamentals perceived by the specialized receptor cells present in the oral cavity. In Japanese, the term means: "tasty" (in the sense of naturally rich in taste, without being excessively salty and fatty) and precisely indicates the glutamate flavor that is particularly present in foods such as meat, cheese and others protein-rich foods.

The value of glutamate

Parmesan is among the foods naturally richer in monosodium glutamate. The average quantity of parmesan cheese of 24 months in 100 grams is approximately 1.5 grams. A natural glutamate, deriving from proteolysis processes affecting long protein chains; its content is measurable as early as the second month and grows steadily during the maturation which in the case of Parmigiano Reggiano is 12 months, but it is around 24 months that it reaches the right maturity to express the typical characteristics. It can also mature beyond, up to 36 or 48 months or even more, showing unexplored aromas and scents. The different seasonings give different sensations and make it particularly versatile in the kitchen, adapting to many preparations and combinations.

The experience from Aalto Part Of Iyo

An interesting experiment on the subject was conducted at Aalto Part Of Iyo, Claudio Liu's new restaurant, patron who won the first Michelin star in Italy for ethnic cuisine. The new beautiful restaurant, inside the Solaria Tower in Milan, has a sushi counter for the omakase and a restaurant that has recently Takeshi Iwai the executive chef. A Japanese chef, back from the experience of Ada and Augusto, a gourmet restaurant in Cascina Guzzafame, and with important passages in the kitchens of Pino Cuttaia, Anthony Genovese, Silvio Giavedoni and Luciano Monosilio. The right hand to offer Parmesan cheese, playing between different cultures and enhancing its flavor to the fullest, in a series of very balanced and surprising dishes.

Free kitchen

You can see the dishes in our gallery: it is not easy to tell them, given the very particular taste and twist of Iwai, which knows how to play perfectly between the raw materials and techniques of the two countries. Anguilla Sumibiyaki: an eel cooked in charcoal, lacquered with a reduction of vinegar and licorice powder, beef tataki, curly endive salad seasoned with laurel oil, mayonnaise with horseradish, sour cream and Parmesan cheese 24 months, pine oil and finger lime. Italian Tsukemen: In Japan, tsukemen is a specialty for which soba or udon are soaked in a bowl with separate dashi. In this case, an extremely Italian Spaghettone by Benedetto Cavalieri was used instead, to dip in a dashi enriched with Parmigiano Reggiano for 30 months, completed with black pepper oil (first taste). This was then joined by juniper and lime oil (second taste) and finally smoked herring (third taste).

Fantasy and reinterpretation

On Waygu, the intense taste of 40-month Parmigiano Reggiano was paired with the rich and melting taste of Wagyu meat, marinated and smoked in two steps. The chef of Aalto Part Of Iyo has revisited a classic combination – such as figs and Parmesan cheese – in the form of a pre-dessert by chef Takeshi Iwai: on the 24th month, present inside the hazelnut flour crumble, he found a perfect dish companion in a fresh fig ice cream. Finally the dessert: unexpected, but shiny. Since Parmigiano Reggiano brings together the five flavors, from the classic four (sweet, salty, bitter, sour) to the aforementioned umami, Iwai wanted to propose it in purity: the 30-month scale accompanied by flowers and marigold leaves. "The perfume: this is the only possible addition to an already perfect product in itself", explained the Japanese chef. And it is difficult to contest it.

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