Carnival in the mouth has the flavor of a sweet fried. Sugar and boiling oil. And often a super-alcoholic touch. From the times of the times: even the ancient Romans, in the centuries Avati Cristo, fried and sold fried, sweet and stuffed pasta, along the streets of the empire, for citizens and travelers during the Carnival era. Probably accompanied by wine, and in particular by an ancestor of vin brulé, which could date back to those times (by the way: here the recipe for a perfect mulled wine, the sangria of winter!).

We hope you have taken advantage of the time window between Epiphany and Carnival by following the advice to not give up the diet in winter, because now it is no longer time to save calories: Fat Tuesday is coming! From the peaks to the islands of the Bel Paese, the pans start to quiver and sizzle: here is a roundup of sweets Local carnival.

First of all there are the chatter, or lies (or 'intrigoni', in Reggio, or many other local names) whether you prefer: perhaps now the most common carnival frescos in the national territory – even if, we must admit, there is now also the 'baked' version , but above all there are the stuffed versions – like the delicious one with cocoa and pine nuts – or the accompanying sauces – in particular the hot zabaglione, also derived from it Piedmont-Ligurian. Similar to lies the 'sfrappole', typical of the carnival emilian and in particular Bolognese (here the recipe for a grappa version). Then of course i fried sweet ravioli, filled with cream, chocolate, jam, hazelnut cream & chocolate. Or maybe ricotta, in the case of Sicilians fravioli.

Also filled, with custard, i Milanese tortelli Carnival: an ancient recipe, which in the twentieth century was further enriched thanks to the vanilla. And then there are the 'Chinulille', sweets typical of the tradition Calabrian: it's exquisite panzerotti stuffed with a cream based ricotta, orange and cognac. from Romagna they arrive instead sweet carnival noodles, with sugar and grated orange peel. Fried desserts from the Carnival Tuscan are the rags at the Vin Santo, whose dough is enriched by the exquisite dessert wine, as well as by the orange peel – and orange is also the jam with which they are usually served.

They are the only ones that are made with the batter, as Orsola knows, confectioner Venetian blind that fry in the eighteenth century in a comedy by Carlo Goldoni. I'm the 'fritole', fried batter balls whose particularities are raisins and rum – a liqueur in use since the sixteenth century. Ball shaped – of the size of a walnut – they are also the Castagnole', an ancient recipe spread in the regions of Center of Italy which has different variations, but a simple base of flour, butter, sugar, eggs, yeast and lemon. And oil for frying, of course! Try them in various versions, like that aniseed or that with marsala.

Of balls – of the size of a hazelnut, however, is also composed the 'cicerchiatadi Carnevale', scenic sweet carnivalesque native ofUmbria but widespread throughout central Italy, which at mountain of fried balls unites the colorful candied fruit.

Simple, similar and certainly delicious recipes. Pancakes in gogo spread throughout Italy, starting from a great classic apple fritters. But fantasy to Carnival is essential, then invent your sweets! From February 28th to March 5th melt the reins to the imagination even in the kitchen: disguised and super-colored recipes, revelers in the kitchen. There is only one rule: at least the dessert, must necessarily be fried!

Carola Traverso Saibante
January 2019

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