Tag: flavors

Neapolitan ragout, slow cooking for strong flavors – Italian Cuisine

Neapolitan ragout, slow cooking for strong flavors

As one of the most beautiful love stories, even that of Neapolitan ragù it starts right in the kitchen, more precisely on a Sunday morning, very early. We are in Italy, in a Neapolitan cuisine, between the scent of food and every delicacy! Yes, that's how it starts, by finely slicing the onion and dipping it into a saucepan with a drizzle of oil until it wilts. Then add the various cuts of meat, the red wine to blend, the tomato sauce and cook very slowly. Yes, for this type of sauce you need intangible ingredients: the weather and the patience.

A Neapolitan tradition
The Neapolitan ragù it is the forerunner for all other dual-use sauces or ragu. Yes, as you well know, once ready, the Neapolitan ragù sauce is used to season a good dish of pasta (better if Neapolitan ziti or broken mezzani) and the meat is served as a main course. Soft chops, sausages and steak cooked in the sauce for 3 hours or more over low heat … the goodness? Its delicacy has also won over two song writers Neapolitan, Eduardo De Filippo who sings its preparation in Saturday, Sunday and Monday And Giuseppe Marotta in the famous The gold of Naples.

The secret is to let the meat sauce "pippiare"
A Campania term that wants to emphasize the dessert sound (don't call it noise!) of the boiling sauce. A slow cooking, to be checked from time to time to make sure that the sauce is not too dry, to turn gently and taste to make sure that it is not lacking in salt, that it is perfect. Yes, because the Neapolitan ragù, like all those that have a double use, have a great one responsibility: they must be tasty to the right point to season the pasta and the meat must be cooked to perfection, soft and juicy.

The preparation of the ragù Neapolitan
A sauce rich in nuances, tradition and passion. Here are the doses for 6 people: 100 g of raw ham fillets, 50 g of salted bacon strips, 1.5 kg of rump or leg of pork, 50 g of lard, 400 g of onions, 2 cloves of garlic, 50 g of bacon, 1 dl of oil, 2,5 dl of dry red wine, 400 g of tomato paste (or 200 g of concentrate and 100 of tomato sauce).

Get ready to lard: take 100 g of raw ham and 50 of salted bacon strips to which you will have to add ground pepper and chopped parsley. Now lard 1.5 kg of meat with raw ham and bacon and tie it to keep it in shape.

Saute: finely chop 50 g of lard, 400 g of onions, 2 cloves of garlic, 50 g of bacon, put the mince in a saucepan with 1 dl of oil and fry over low heat. As soon as it starts to sizzle add the meat, close the lid and brown it on all sides, turning it from time to time.

A secret: browning the meat on all sides allows you to seal all the pores so that it does not lose all its liquids during cooking and that it can remain soft and juicy.

When the onions are golden brown, open the lid and add little by little 2.5 dl of dry red wine. Leave uncovered until the wine evaporates (this will take about 2 hours) and the meat will continue to cook in its own fat. Carry on slightly raising the fire.

At this point, add 2 tablespoons of double tomato concentrate, do it fry and keep stirring until it becomes very dark. Be careful not to let it burn! Subsequently, repeat the operation until you have added all the tomato paste. Cook gently for about 3 hours, taking care to mix and turn the meat to let it flavor.

In the end, add the tomato sauce, a pinch of salt and a ladle of water and cook uncovered for about an hour then, gently remove the meat and leave it aside. Continue by covering the pot and let peppiare for an hour and a half until the sauce has thickened.

Now taste, season with salt and put the meat back in the saucepan, bring back to a boil and start cooking the pasta!

What if the sauce is too much? It doesn't happen, but if it happens … Pour the still very hot sauce of the Neapolitan ragù in a glass jar, close it hermetically and let it cool upside down, as if it were a preserve.

October 2021
Giulia Ferrari

Daunia flavors in strong colors: a trip to Puglia – Italian Cuisine


Between the Gargano and the Tavoliere this sunny land of ancient transhumance embraces expanses of wheat, vineyards, fruit and vegetable crops. And then olive groves as far as the eye can see that give an extra virgin of great character


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There Daunia is an angle of Puglia where sea, lagoon, plains and mountains coexist. But above all, some of the most important artistic monuments in the region. Yet the statistics tell us that this area, with the exception of the marine centers of the Gargano, is the least touristy. Large estates and farmhouses, genuine gastronomic tradition and the food industry come together in the Tavoliere di Puglia, the granary of Italy: kilometers of elementary and beautiful land, immense and sunny.

From North to south
191904 "src =" https://www.salepepe.it/files/2021/10/daunia-puglia-ulivi-@salepepe.jpg "width =" 210 "style =" float: left;For those coming from the north, the first exit on the A14 in the Apulian territory is Poggio Imperiale, but the town that can be reached in the shortest time is Lesina. Its lake, actually a lagoon that communicates with the sea, is worth getting to know closely with the lake tourist services. In the morning it is nice to have a visit to the fish market: a triumph of silversides, sea bream, sea bass and mullet. And above all eels, for which the village is known among gourmands. Bosco Isola, the strip of sand fragrant with myrtle and laurel that divides the lagoon from the sea, is crossed with the mountain bike or backpacker: the welcome is provided by flamingos and bee-eaters, badgers and foxes. Those who want to continue with the walk they head towards San Paolo of Civitate which offers the opportunity to travel along a well-marked stretch of the tratturo Magno. It connected L'Aquila to Foggia: an ancient highway used for the transhumance of animals in the past centuries. A motorway complete with a toll, as shown by the pandetta embedded in the wall at the Taverna di Civitate.

The fruit and vegetable excellences of Torremaggiore
191906 "src =" https://www.salepepe.it/files/2021/10/daunia-puglia-conserve-@salepepe.jpg "width =" 210 "style =" float: left;Torremaggiore intertwines its history with that of Federico II. If time is not running out, you can visit the ruins of Castelfiorentino, the place where the emperor died. Torremaggiore, with San Ferdinando di Puglia and Lucera, it is also one of the vertices of the triangle where the fertile Apulian plain gives its best. Anyone who wants proof goes to the laboratory Longing for Puglia: this is where vases of tomato, an infinite collection of vegetables and creams to season bruschetta and extra virgin olive oil from the characteristic Peranzana cultivar, with a well-distributed ratio between bitter and spicy. After all, more than half of the tricolor olive oil comes from the Italian heel. A primacy that sprinkles tomatoes, fennel, artichokes, broccoli, asparagus and recalls another leading sector of the Apulian economy and tables, thefruit and vegetables, at the base of the most illustrious regional culinary preparations.

The return to the land of Lucera
This is how it announces itself among olive groves, vineyards and crops of wheat and vegetables Lucera with the imposing profile of the Swabian-Angevin walls, nine hundred meters of stone silhouetted on the horizon. Lucera is a city rich in history, set in the Roman amphitheater, built using a natural cavity in the ground, in the Gothic cathedral and in the Swabian castle. Dribbling one building and the other in the center reveals the refinement of the details that enrich Lombardi Palace And De Peppo Palace confirming the prosperity of the rural economy in the eighteenth century. In the countryside of Lucera, on the other hand, you can discover farms that have generations of 2.0 peasants in charge, with a degree in their pocket but who have chosen return to the earth. Witnesses Raffaele and Francesca Rossi, who in the Scorciabove Estate prepare pickled tomatoes and delicious past as well as wheat and vegetables for the wholesalers market. Trend confirmed by Nicola Faccilongo in Agricola Paglione. A stop in its vats is a must to discover the authenticity of this family that has helped to recover the Cacc 'and mmitte from Lucera Doc, sapid wine and full of ruby ​​color.

Bovine and sheep transhumance
Three clues are said to prove: in the Masseria Pavoni the ancient practice of transhumance: bleating and mooing that come from there are ruled by one of the souls of the Carrino family, Cristoforo, a veterinarian. Great stop for a purchase of caciocavallo And pecorino.

A stop to fill the stomach and eyes
191905 "src =" https://www.salepepe.it/files/2021/10/daunia-puglia-cattedrale-@salepepe.jpg "width =" 210 "style =" float: left;In the city picturesque corners bloom under the dim lights of the evening and for those who sit at the tables of the restaurant The Cortiletto Paolo Laskavj airs the agro lucerino complete with spaghetti with trio of yellow, red, green and cacioricotta tomatoes. In the morning, after 17 kilometers between gentle curves, one of the most beautiful is found cathedrals from Puglia, to Troy, perched on a ridge of the Monti Dauni. The rosette looks like a crocheted cotton doily, the bronze door is a masterpiece. It is not necessary to have a good nose to be captivated by the scents that accompany towards the Roflè pastry shop. Try the biscuit with fig vincotto and the soft cantucci with lemon. Towards Foggia, the road is a balcony that embraces the entire Tavoliere. After a walk among the baroque palaces of the capital you can take a look at the rooms of the civic Museum which house the collection of artifacts from the Italic city of Arpi. Then you have to calculate half an hour on the road along the S.S. 89 to be fascinated by the melting pot of medieval architectural styles basilica from Santa Maria Maggiore in Siponto. An imposing metal mesh structure, like a hologram, reconstructs the nearby church, older and now lost. The seafront and the boundless beaches of Manfredonia, generous with sun even in October, are just a few minutes away.

Typical dishes: between tradition and modernity
Some good local fish and shellfish dishes, too in the form of sandwiches, can be tried at Calamarando, but the presence of gastronomic deposits of earth still makes room with the characteristic rustic of the town, the farrata: the pastry is filled with ricotta, cinnamon, marjoram and boiled spelled.

Green and luxuriant Daunia
Lovers of botanical curiosities are accompanied by expert guides in theSalt Lake Oasis in search ofbladder grass rice fields, a small carnivorous plant. The paths that cross the Gargano are a godsend for those who love walking. The harsh karst landscape and the angular coast are softened by the fragrant Aleppo pines and gardens oforanges, carob trees And olive trees. Like on the road that leads to Mattinata. To try a oil dizzyingly we stop at Masseria Papone: the pitted one is recognized for its persistent spicy vein and almond aftertaste.

The last stage
191907 "src =" https://www.salepepe.it/files/2021/10/daunia-puglia-san-michele-@salepepe.jpg "width =" 210 "style =" float: left;It is worth taking the switchbacks that go up to Monte Sant'Angelo, built around the cave where the archangel Michael would appear. The neighborhood can be identified from afar Junno thanks to the imposing octagonal bell tower that rises above the roofs of the town. Armed with telephoto it's hard not to indulge in photos I remember to the Abbey of Pulsano in an irregular fissure of the promontory that offers panoramic views of the Tavoliere and the Gulf of Manfredonia. From here you can explore the Gargano National Park. Alternatively, with just over an hour's drive you can reach Apricena, the terminus of the sheep track that started from Celano. Not before a special purchase in Michele Sabatino's Macelleria, the muscisca: goat meat obtained with an archaic method of preservation, cut into small strips, seasoned with garlic and chilli and finally dried. A memory in strong colors.

October 2021
by Riccardo Lagorio

top photo by Massimo Borchi / Sime

The addresses
of Sale & Pepe


Longing for Puglia
S.P. Casalvecchio 1.300 KM
Torremaggiore (FG)
Tel. 0882382429

Scorciabove estate
Contrada Scorciabove S.P Lucera-Palmori KM 3,000
Lucera (FG)
Tel. 0881529618

Paglione Farm
Contrada Perazzelle S.P 116 KM 9,800
Lucera (FG)
Tel. 3669907771

Masseria Pavoni Fratelli Carrino
Contrada San Giusto
Lucera (FG)
Tel. 0881542936

Masseria Papone
S.S. 89 Garganica
Monte Sant'Angelo (FG)
Tel. 3409272132


Butcher Sabatino
Via Roma, 50
Apricena (FG)
Tel. 0882643190

Ricci Bakery
Via Don Luigi Sturzo, 62
Lucera (FG)
Tel. 0881540136

Roflè pastry shop
Piazzale Antonio Salandra, 8
Troia (FG)
Tel. 0881970237

Salvatore Ognissanti Bakery
Via San Lorenzo, 142
Manfredonia (FG)
Tel. 0884662366


Il Cortilett restaurantor
Via Family De 'Nicastri, 26
Lucera (FG)
Tel. 0881542554

Lungomare Nazario Sauro, 19
Manfredonia (FG)
Tel. 3892610400

Trattoria Giordano
Vico al Piano, 14
Tel. 0881724640

Posted on 10/16/2021


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A pizza for every season: 4 flavors created by 4 young chefs – Italian Cuisine

Four signature pizzas to celebrate the young talents of haute cuisine. The unpublished creations of the talents of the S.Pellegrino Young Chef Academy will be available at Giolina in Milan, one for each season of the year

From today every season will have its pizza: Paolo Griffa, Chang Liu, Luca Natalini and Davide Marzullo they have put together the best raw materials to season Giolina's soft doughs, one of the pizzerias ahead of Milan.

The project that aims to support young people with a passion for catering was launched by Ilaria Puddu, creator with Stefano Saturnino of some of the most successful formats of recent years (Gelsomina, Crocca, Giolina, to name a few), in collaboration with S.Pellegrino Young Chef Academy.
«This is a project that I care a lot about, because I believe that we entrepreneurs must first start investing in young talents. They are the real future of catering and it is therefore important to give them the opportunity to grow, to have visibility, to be able to create synergies between them, to contaminate themselves so that new ideas and projects are born. Over the course of the year, these pizzas will alternate on Giolina's menu and the proceeds will go to support scholarships of ALMA, so as to give one more chance to new deserving young people comments Ilaria Puddu.

Photo by Riccardo Liporace

Together withExecutive Pizzaiolo Danilo Brunetti, the chefs talked about the excellences of our territory (without letting us miss some surprising forays), while at the same time drawing inspiration from their respective gastronomic philosophies. An experience that is completed with the combinations of cocktails from bartender Mattia Pastori, prepared with Sanpellegrino soft drinks. The trend of combining pizza and cocktails is increasingly proving to be a suitable choice to enhance the flavors present in the dish. Let's find out together.

Autumn by Chang Liu

Chang Liu, chef of Mu Dimsum in Milan and winner of S.Pellegrino Young Chef China in 2016, puts his deep knowledge of traditional Chinese cuisine together with some extraordinary products of our country on pizza.

Smoked provola d'Agerola, Bra sausage, porcini mushrooms, chanterelles, cardoncelli and shitake, five Chinese spices and fresh thyme. The pairing cocktail includes Aqva of Citrus Gin, Tonica Citrus Sanpellegrino, mushrooms powder, thyme and salt crust.

Winter by Paolo Griffa

Paolo Griffa, after winning the S. Pellegrino Young Chef Italy Award in 2015, arrives at the Grand Hotel Royal & Golf in Courmayeur in 2017 and wins the first Michelin Star in 2019.

His experience is felt all in the chosen ingredients: porcini and chanterelle mushroom cream, venison messata, Brussels sprouts, vinaigrette and black truffle. The cocktail is based on red fruit shrub and red wine vinegar, Ginger Beer Sanpellegrino, smoked whiskey, blackberry and raspberry.

Luca Natalini's Spring

Luca Natalini wins S.Pellegrino Young Chef in Russia in 2016 and in 2020 he becomes Executive Chef at the Pont de Ferr in Milan. While waiting to eat at his new Autem restaurant, soon in Milan, you can taste his pizza at Giolina's.

Tuscan pecorino, Cetara anchovies, courgette flowers, pesto alla genovese and chard pesto, raw asparagus, violets, borage, pansies and chervil they are paired with a cocktail based on Italicus Rosolio di Bergamotto, BIO Sanpellegrino lemonade, tequila and violet liqueur.

The Summer of Davide Marzullo

After winning Antonino Cannavacciuolo Academy and having an internship experience at Noma, Davide Marzullo joined the brigade of the starry Villa Crespi. He has just won the S. Pellegrino Award for Social Responsibility for the Region of Italy and South East Europe and will fight for the world title in the Grand Finale at the end of October.

The ingredients of his pizza are: broad bean cream, pea cream, pecorino romano cream, charcoal, broad beans, crispy bacon, taralli and pea shoots. The cocktail: Floral Gin Aqva, Sanpellegrino Oak Tonica and pea shoots.

Space for young people!

The S.Pellegrino Young Chef international scouting project, born in 2015, has given many young people the opportunity to become part of the S.Pellegrino Young Chef Academy, a permanent training laboratory. The target? To ensure that young people can cultivate their talent and become spokespersons for the change that is also taking place in the panorama of global gastronomy.

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