Almost everyone always knows it in relation to amatriciana, as its "white" version, or as a cheese and pepper, with the addition of the bacon. But actually the Grisha, known as Grice, is the original version, the oldest one, which was born and takes its name from Grisciano. Grisciano is a small hamlet of Accumuli, in the province of Rieti, on the border with the Marche, where there is only one restaurant that prepares it: it is La Vecchia Ruota, the only one, but also the best ever, where to try a gricia original and truly unforgettable, even if there are some variations born over time, such as those proposed by the young chef Remo Fiscina.
History and origin of the griscia
The griscia was born in a border area, between what was the Kingdom of the two Sicilies and the State of the Church. Grisciano, in fact, was the post station along the old Roman Salaria, a crossroads of ancient routes through the passes with Abruzzo, Marche and Ducati Longobards. Its origin certainly dates back to an era before the discovery of America, given the absence of tomatoes. "It is probably during the Napoleonic conquest period, from 1798 to 1814, that the use of tomato as a pasta sauce sauce spread along the Italian peninsula", writes the French gastronomist Grimond de la Reynière in 1807 in the Almanach des gourmandes. Its only ingredients, in fact, are those available in the area, offered by pastoralism and breeding, easy to transport by shepherds during transhumance, i.e. pig cheek and the pecorino cheese. And still today at the Old Wheel they prepare it just like that, with the products present in the area.
La Vecchia Ruota, the only place to eat the Griscia in Grisciano
The Old Wheel was born in 1991, in one of those places of passage; which sometimes helps, sometimes not. After some collaborations with other members, it becomes a totally family-run restaurant with Gian Piero Cafini in the kitchen, her sister Chiara in the room and the parents in supervision. Then over the years the family expands, with Manuela, wife of Gian Piero who helps in various tasks. In addition to the gricia, they also prepare other dishes to perfection, such as amatriciana, potato gnocchi, bundles with truffle, lamb and so on. But the queen of the restaurant remains the gricia (we are still in Grisciano!) Which they offer with a strictly spicy local bacon and pecorino (not Roman) by Giuseppe Riti di Acquasanta. But the secret lies in knowing how to stir it with cooking water in an aluminum pan, which conducts heat better and obviously in the right amount of pepper.
Gricia or griscia?
"They are subtleties, we don't take it, why should you do it?" In fact, Chiara explains, in Grisciano they are the first to call it gricia and not griscia. Even the party in his honor, which the Associazione Amici di Grisciano organizes every August 18, is called Gricia Festival. The exact term, however, is griscia, as it takes its name from the country. Over time, however, it began to be called in the Gricia dialect, without the s, even by the inhabitants of Grisciano themselves. "It's like Amatriciana or matriciana, there is no difference, it is only dialect," continues Chiara. "We personally do not care, as well as the rigidity that exists on the use of long or short pasta".
Note: long pasta or short pasta?
Another great truth comes to us from the temple of the griscia, this time about the pasta format to use: "Eat it a little as you like!". In fact, Chiara does not understand why so much perseverance over alleged rules with respect to the use of long or short pasta, because there is no original, ancient or "more real" version than others. In the past, he explains, we used the fresh pasta that was prepared from time to time and therefore always different: sometimes it was short, sometimes long, still others with eggs, when they were there! So, even at the Old Wheel, today you can choose the format you prefer: they offer them spaghetti as long pasta, and the short sleeves as short pasta (so you can also find it at the festival). But this does not detract from those who use other formats, such as one of the greatest (and youngest) chefs who is today in the province of Rome: Remo Fiscina, of Cilento origin, who proposes it in some very interesting variants.
The variations of the chef Remo Fiscina
Remo is a very young chef with a thousand resources; one of those who think a hundred and a thousand do, who never stands still, who always has new ideas, ongoing projects. And he never misses one! Originally from Caselle in Pittari, in Cilento, he absorbs the passion for cooking from his mother Concetta, who woke him up every Sunday morning preparing fresh pasta and who transmitted to him the value of what is done at home and the big difference with everything what is industrial. Remo treasures these teachings: already at 13 he starts working in the kitchens and then moves to Rome (mother's hometown), where he works in various restaurants, bringing his skills and above all his flair. Thus, with him, traditional dishes also find new life and life, such as the gricia which, in addition to the sacrosanct classic version, also offers a Cilento variant (bringing some of its origins, to which it remains always very close) . For the pasta prepare some egg noodles with Caselle in Pittari wheat, from Stone Mill of the Terra di Resilienza Social Cooperative; then adds an excellence of the territory, i white figs from Cilento, which with their sweetness create a nice contrast with the flavor of pecorino (Roman) and guanciale (from Norcia). In the absence of figs, depending on the season, you can also use the pears, to have the same result. For Remo what should never be missing is the combination with a glass of white wine Frascati dei Castelli Romani, where he lives today and where he continues to innovate his cuisine in a mix between Cilento and Lazio, each time more and more surprising.
