Tag: Diego

The sheep (according to chef Diego Rossi) – Italian Cuisine


Everything has been said and written about Diego Rossi, we can certainly all agree that with his restaurant Trippa, in Milan, he made a significant contribution to the return of the fifth quarter (all this advances from the two half-carcases of the animal) on our tables.

A great enthusiast and connoisseur and experimenter, he dedicated a book to the fifth quarter – As long as there is tripe – which can be considered a sort of fifth quarter vademecum with related recipes.

Diego is also a chef who never misses his menu sheep and for this reason we asked him for some advice on how to prepare it, since we are in the period of the year when lamb, kid and sheep are the protagonists of the table. The goal is always to sensitize and stimulate the consumption of less usual meats.

Let's start with a plate hard core: overcooked sheep offal with onion and spices (pepper, pimenton de la vera, garlic, nutmeg) to eat boiled with a side dish of vegetables or potatoes. It's about his interpretation Haggis, a sausage symbol of the Scottish culinary tradition, tasted during his last trip to Scotland and which suggests that offal is also appreciated abroad.

The chef starts from the right assumption that cooking and eating every part of the animal is a form of respect and that it is all about choosing good meat: perfectly slaughtered sheep and in super safe hygiene conditions. So, first of all, it is important to select a good breeder or butcher.

Among the sheep breeds, the medium-sized Brogna prefers the only autochthonous native of the Veronese mountain to survive the extinction or the Bergamo-based lean and delicate meat alternatively the lamb of the Lucanian dolomites bred in the wild.

But where does the inspiration come from? from tradition, from the family recipes and from the exchanges, from the dialogues with the people he meets (Editor's note we also talked about the various versions of lamb lamb and egg from Abruzzo).

So here is a starting point for one sheep crépinette, a kind of patty oval-shaped, in which to insert parature of finely chopped sheep cuts, sheep's liver, salt, cumin, garlic and pecorino. To tie everything together, combine bread, milk and eggs and insert the mixture into a pork net, which gives its name to the preparation, scald it in a pan with oil and salt, then pass it in the oven for a few minutes (about 10).

In this period, to be served with sautéed artichokes or asparagus also boiled with gratin and for the lucky ones, thistles.

Do you know how to cook the head instead?

Remove the brain, boil it for about an hour and a half, then pass it in the oven with oil, garlic, thyme, mint and salt, leaving it to roast for about 12 minutes at 180 °. With the brain kept aside, you can create a sauce by combining garlic, oil, thyme, mint, chilli pepper and sliced ​​lemon, letting it reduce on the heat and adding fresh lemon juice at the end of cooking.

But we do not live only offal, so Diego recommends consuming the leg, lean muscle tissue, preparing a tartare with salt and extra virgin olive oil, a sheep burger or a tasty ragù.

The white meat sauce it can be done with the meat cut with a knife or minced using a classic sauté seasoned with thyme, mint, cumin or even sesame and wet with the broth obtained from the bones of the sheep or other boiled cuts.

at Hamburger, to the minced meat of sheep you can add fatty parts of pork such as bacon and it is flavored with salt and flavorings also adding mustard sauce or beans. Pink cooking in a pan.

The mantra is always the same: nothing is thrown away, you eat everything with respect, awareness and taste, it is always about being guided by the experience of those who have worked before us by generating a culture of inestimable value.

Text by Romina Ciferni

Photo by Marco Varoli.

The offal ragout by Diego Rossi – Italian Cuisine


Here is the ragout of farm animal offal made by chef Diego Rossi of Trattoria Trippa in Milan. To be done at home, as it once was, or to be bought comfortably in a jar. Because even the trattorias are no longer what they used to be

Diego Rossi is the Best Chef 2020 for the Identità Golose Guide, he is today among the best known and appreciated chefs of the Italian panorama and his Trattoria, Trippa in Milan, internationally known. His cuisine is not that of tradition, but a contemporary and creative version of the cuisine of a trattoria today, made by the hand of an expert chef, with modern techniques and forgotten ingredients. The fifth quarter is its fetish raw material: tripe, liver, kidney are currently on the menu in the restaurant and among the most ordered dishes; even by those who didn't want to hear about those "things".

This recipe is just a ragout of chicken and beef offal, which is inspired by the poor cuisine of the past, genuine and concrete, still able to excite for its frankness and extreme topicality for a generation of chefs who increasingly aim at reducing waste and enhancing less noble parts of the animal. At the beginning, a childhood memory: the scent of the grandmother's ragù that came from the kitchen while Diego played in the courtyard chasing the hens in the countryside of San Giovanni Lupatoto (VR). A memory of taste etched forever in an authentic dish, and for those who taste it, they can find forgotten flavors and take a trip back in time. «This preparation is ideal for seasoning fresh pasta, imagine them with a homemade noodle. But it is fabulous as a filling for ravioli or for lasagna. To stay on a simpler version: use it to garnish croutons of bread or polentaExplains Diego.

Chicken giblets | Heart of Cattle | Tomato

A meat offal made from a few simple ingredients, those that were once the only ones available in country houses: from chicken, used in all its parts, to smaller cuts of meat, less valuable but with an extraordinary flavor. Chicken livers and durelli, with the addition of beef heart, are cooked slowly like a ragù, together with tomato sauce and aromatic herbs selected by Diego Rossi to balance the decisive flavor of the offal.

Don't call it ready sauce!

The courtyard is a story to tell that is intertwined with regional traditions and products as well as collective memories, it is a recipe that can last over time and be enjoyed even far from the places of origin. The courtyard is in fact one of the many proposals of Bonverre, a range of exclusive recipes created by great local interpreters and enclosed in precious glass jars (don't call them sauces!). Bonverre uses the ancient method of the pot cooking for preserve its flavors for a long time and in an optimal way, without adding artificial preservatives or additives. As well as guaranteeing a minimum shelf life of 2 years, glass represents a choice of sustainability, as it can be reused after consumption or easily recycled. Ready to be heated, or prepared at home with Diego Rossi's recipe.

Photo @ Marco Varoli.

Recipe

Ingredients for 4 people

8 chicken durelli
8 chicken livers
100 gr of bovine heart
½ carrot
½ stick of celery
1 large onion
garlic
200 gr of tomato sauce
1 sprig of chopped rosemary
2-3 sage leaves
2 bay leaves
White wine
extra virgin olive oil
Parmigiano
pepper
salt

Method

Start preparing the ragù by removing the inner skin of the durelli and washing them well. Boil them in flavored water with a pinch of salt and a bay leaf for about an hour. Once cooked, drain and set aside.
In the meantime, chop the vegetables, garlic and aromatic herbs and put everything to fry with oil in a saucepan. Add the diced durelli, sprinkle with white wine and let it reduce. Pour the tomato sauce, salt and cook for 20 minutes.
Add the beef heart cut into cubes and cook for 10 minutes. Then add the diced livers to the ragù, keeping the thickness applied to the other offal, and cook for another 5 minutes. Season with salt and complete with a sprinkling of pepper and parmesan.

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