Venice is not a place of light accounts, especially during events. But there are places where you can spend relatively little or at least make a great experience. here they are
Venice does not need the International Film Festival to get animated, indeed. Certainly these are the days when the Lagoon comes alive to the improbable star and starlet. Prices soaring for those unfamiliar with the right places, perhaps more secluded and known to the locals where you'll never spend much, of course, but the right one for the experience. Those who do not have budget problems can remove the whim of a Michelin-starred restaurant, peacefully surpassing the 100-150 euros per person. They are seven, all with one star: the spectacular Gold of Hotel Cipriani to the Giudecca; the historical one Osteria da Fiore (six years was the only star of Venice, which makes us understand the renewal); The Ridotto (more creative cuisine, with only nine tables); Met of the Hotel Metropol that does not lose strokes; Glam – within the elegant Palazzo Venart – which is part of the network of Enrico Bartolini; the refined Venissa which is immersed in the wine resort of the island of Mazzorbo; the Quadri Restaurant Alajmo – in Piazza San Marco – flanked by the Quadrino bistro and the Gran Caffé. A triptych of excellence that has been revisited so great from Philippe Starck in 2018, with a very expensive operation.
Hunting for bacari
Apart from our choice, we like to remember a Venetian institution, the bacari, where you take a break (be it short or long), doing "do ciacole" (two chats) and drinking a shadow (glass of wine, but it is impossible to limit yourself to one) to accompany the cicheti, taster or at most saucers. We are very close to Iberian tapas, obviously in a local key: sardines in saor, grilled cuttlefish, cod, fried vegetables, spiena and coradea (spleen and coratella), prawn skewers … In some bacaro, for lunch, there is a more complete gastronomic offer while almost all the wines come from Triveneto. Write down the right signs: Al Bacareto (San Marco), Al Ponte (Cannaregio), Al Portego (Castello), Al Prosecco (Santa Croce), All'Arco (San Polo), Cantinone (Dorsoduro), Cavatappi (San Marco), Codroma (Dorsoduro) . In Castello there is also the famous wine-bar La Mascareta: 100 labels by the glass to «wet salami and quality cheeses as delicious typical dishes. They are ideal places for a gourmet break, wanting something more.
Matteo Tagliapietra, Venetian doc, he also made his bones at the London Nobu and Noma. Back home, he created a place, the Local, linked to the territory both for the environment, the floor is made with 5 thousand murrine made by master glassmakers, both for the kitchen, which uses only large (local) products of earth and sea. At lunchtime it offers a dish of the day most Venetian or the her selection of cicheti.
The existence of a Dorona vineyard – the grape of the Doges – is enough to justify the uniqueness of this jewel on the island of Mazzorbo, offering a complete experience thanks to five rooms. The kitchen of the star is of a high standard, entrusted to Chiara Pavan – cook of the year 2018 for the Espresso – and Francesco Brutto. Avant-garde, especially of fish, but for the less courageous there is also a Contemporary Tavern with feet in the Lagoon.
In the Venice of the 700s, the "fritolini" were the places where you could buy fresh fish just fried, wrapped in a "scartosso" (cartoccio). This historic local in Santa Croce, which has undergone a beautiful redesign in 2016, inherits the best tradition. Among the many specialties of the Lagoon, the "scartosso di pesse" is very popular. But the bigoli in salsa, the selection of "cicheti" and even the crudités of the day are not far behind.
The Belmond Hotel Cipriani, in Giudecca, has no weaknesses, indeed. For gourmets there is the starry Oro by Davide Bisetto, with refined dishes and incredible colors. But if we talk about pure charm, it's impossible to resist Cip's Club in a cool September evening: breathtaking view from the terrace, informal atmosphere. Between classic and signature dishes, on the terrace you can drink (well) at any time. The kitchen offers classy Venetian dishes.
In Venice the last Michelin-starred restaurant was Enrico Bartolini's restaurant located inside Palazzo Venart: classy ambience, impeccable service and many Venetian-style dishes, revisited by executive chef Donato Ascani, thirty year old talent of Fiuggi. It is one of the best creative kitchens in the Laguna, "Bartolini" in concepts, but interpreted with an even more Mediterranean touch.
We could call it a refined bacaro: from the showcase one senses that it is all tiny in this tavern in Calle del Mondo Novo, except for the kitchen that is above average. The ten tables are in great demand – always book – while the retro touch is given by the headboards of wrought-iron beds on the walls. Venetian fish dishes, well revisited and enriched by oriental influences, as is inherent in the history of the Serenissima.
It's a bistro. But, perhaps, even before that, a winery (the young patron Andrea Lorenzon, son of the legendary Mauro, in fact calls it enoiteca). In the sense that we drink high quality wine, almost all with a natural imprint. One hundred Italian and French labels, including many bubbles, which are told in the best way and combined with dishes. The menu is short, eight dishes, not tied to tradition but very original.
In the Alajamo empire, one of the great families of Italian restaurants, the bistro-patisserie bar inside the Fondaco dei Tedeschi is the most chic of all: the design is signed by monsieur Philippe Starck, with obvious references to the Serenissima. Open from 10am to 10pm to enjoy only good stuff, sweet and savory, signed by the chef Massimiliano. Try the original and delicious spritz, designed by Raffaele Alajmo.
Bistrot del Mare by Cera
Lionello Cera is one of the masters of fish cuisine in Italy, not surprisingly has two stars in the motherhouse of Campagna Lupia, half an hour from Venice. This year it opened a pop-up restaurant on the Tropicana terrace of the Hotel Excelsior Venice Lido Resort: seafood dishes and some land courses, reinterpreting the great classics of Venetian cuisine. Wax also takes care of the selection of "cicheti" for the cocktails of the famous Blue Bar.
If you are looking for a very quiet place with excellent cuisine, this is perfect. Nine tables, to taste a cuisine with doc raw materials, respect for tradition, but also new ideas, especially on fish. And attention to detail, worthy of a starry one as it is. Intense dishes such as scallops with smoked black tea, sea bass with cabbage and garlic sauce, caciucco soup with mixed pasta and the scent of green lemon.
Burano, spread over four islands, is worth a visit for its beauty. And this trattoria – with solid family management – is the best culinary expression. Dishes that most Venetians cannot have for a transversal and affectionate clientele: it happens to eat alongside De Niro or Starck, who for years has taken up residence a few meters away. It is a culinary dip in the 70s, well interpreted in the kitchen and proposed at the time by the mythical patron Ruggero.
Fiola at Dopolavoro
The JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa is a jewel on the private Island of Roses. "It reflects the spirit of the Lagoon: water, slowness and silence," explains Matteo Thun, who took care of the recovery project. From April, to supervise the elegant restaurant there is the expert Fabio Trabocchi, one of the most famous Italian chefs in America, who focuses on a very Adriatic cuisine, with obvious international touches.