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Sal De Riso: 5 rules for choosing panettone – Italian Cuisine

Sal De Riso: 5 rules for choosing panettone


We interviewed the pastry chef from Campania who won the Panettone World Championship 2021 to get his personal advice on choosing and matching the classic leavened product for the holidays.

From his laboratory in Minori, in the heart of the Amalfi Coast, the pastry chef Sal De Riso has now literally conquered the world: in fact, he is the best second panettone of the Panettone World Championship 2021, Second edition of the biennial competition dedicated to the famous Lombard leavened cake. On the podium, two other masters from Campania: Aniello Di Caprio of the Pasticceria Lombardi of Maddaloni (Caserta), second, and Giuseppe Mascolo by El Sombrero di Visciano (Naples), third. A victory that confirms the trend: panettone is increasingly a national and international heritage. Not by chance the three winning panettone will be presented in November at Hong Kong's Central Market. The occasion will be an event that will intersect the culture and history of Italy with that of Asia, organized by the company La Vin Investment Group Limited.

A golden year, on the other hand, for Italian pastry after the victory at the World Cup. Moreover, Sal De Riso is one of the founders of the Academy of Master Yeast and Italian Panettone and president of AMPI.

We reached him to ask him how with some tricks (as an expert) you can choose an artisan panettone really worthy of the name. And what, of course, does yours have in store for Christmas.

Sal, how do you feel after this umpteenth victory?
«I confess that it has been a great satisfaction for me who for years have been producing artisan panettone. However, I always remember that I learned the technique in Lombardy. Then I tried to work with it by developing a mixture and a technique of my own .

Like?
«With a much slower leavening than what the Lombard masters taught me. I focused a lot on the aromatic part: having wonderful citrus fruits at our disposal, then I added the vanilla beans from Haiti and the result was an aromatic bouquet that distinguishes me .

Other secrets?
«The leavening. The real artisanal panettone is made with live mother yeast refreshed 3 times a day and certainly not the powder one. The yeast processing goes from 5 in the morning to 17, its Ph must be close to 4 / 4.5 of acidity. Then the first evening dough is made based on water, sugar, a little malt, a whole flour rich in wheat germ, rich in fiber since, for years, I have also been working on the nutritional part of my desserts. We combine fresh butter and egg yolk. Once the dough is made, we put it to rise until the following morning at about 28 ° C: the dough triples, then at 5 in the morning we start with the second dough. Add sugar, other flour, Italian acacia honey, other yolk and reset. Then we decline the various tastes. Finally we put the dough in the appropriate pirouettes and let it rise 24 hours instead of the standard 8 at about 18-28 degrees. If we want, the secret is (also) slowness .

What's new this year?
«My new panettone is called Chocolaty: in the dough there is already 70% dark chocolate and then vanilla candied apricot wedges from Vesuvius ".

Any idea to serve it?
«Try it with a vanilla sauce, a scoop of Moscato ice cream for example and some berries.

What will your Christmas menu be like?
«I will stay on the Amalfi Coast because I work until the 24th: then I'll treat myself to a big family lunch. Our Christmas menu never misses the escarole stuffed with anchovies, capers and olives: it's a spectacular thing! And then the fried cod paired with salty panettone .

Salted Panettone?
«Oh yes, a delight: I never put it into production and at the moment I make a few limited pieces of it. The idea came to me from a collaboration with quality vegetable producers on the Sele plain. Everyone asks me: next year you will find it! Inside there are candied and semi-candied vegetables which I combine with papacelle (small, red and fleshy local peppers usually preserved in vinegar), anchovies from Cetera, capers and olives: it's a wonderful idea for Christmas. Given the farmers' love for their work, I renamed this creation The peasant in love".

What's new for 2022?
«I will open my bracioleria, again in Minori, by Easter: it will be the first restaurant of this type on the Amalfi Coast. The works, due to Covid, have been postponed a bit; but there we are .

Do you open a restaurant?
«It is actually a comeback: as a young man I worked for 8 years in the kitchens of a restaurant. First as an apprentice and then as a match chef. Finally I opened my own patisserie. An experience that, I must say, helped me a lot to better understand the combinations, to form my personal thoughts on food. In fact, over the years I have always made savory pastries. Then in 2016, in Minori, I expanded to a bistro with a small selection of typical traditional dishes: eggplant parmigiana, rice sartù, potato gattò and Ndunderi, typical of Minori .

What is it about?
«Of delicious gnocchi prepared with 70% ricotta and 30% flour, grated cheese and basil, which is usually served with a sausage sauce, but which we change according to the season. Porcini mushrooms and chestnuts, for example, in this period. During the summer, however, we dress them with vegetables from the garden ".

Artisan Panettone: how to choose it (and recognize it)

Yes, but how do you choose, in general, a good artisan panettone? And how does it distinguish itself from the industrial ones? This is how the master answered us

The proof of the cut
«When it is good, the panettone has a dough with an elongated and oval alveolation. This is also an index of digestibility .

Scent
"You must immediately smell a celestial and citrus scent, but also of vanilla: in the artisan one, berries are used, certainly not the aroma. Find out if there are small black dots in the dough. If there are quality candied fruit they will be soft and shiny, sweet and aromatic on the palate. In my classic panettone I put 30 kilos of candied fruit per 100 of dough .

Softness equal to freshness
«A good panettone must be moist and soft at the right point. This is an indication of freshness, but also of correct leavening. For my panettone it takes a total of 4 days of processing .

Color
"It must have a beautiful straw yellow color: it is the index of the presence of fresh egg yolk, a truly fundamental ingredient. Also for eggs I rely on biological suppliers in the area: the richness of the simplest raw materials makes a great product .

The "virtuous" label and the shelf life of the product
«The first thing to do is to read the ingredients that must speak clearly and be noble, as well as not too numerous: from flour to butter, from sugar to vanilla. Avoid products where you find mono and diglycerides associated with industrial products. Finally, in the artisan panettone it is essential to understand the duration: it usually expires after 60-70 days. If it lasts 8 months or more, it is not artisanal .

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Guide to choosing the wine cellar – Italian Cuisine

Guide to choosing the wine cellar


To find the best, but above all the right one for your needs, spaces and design. Here are our tips, function by function

The appliance that is missing in your home could be the one you use the most. In fact, the wine cellar is very useful every day because it keeps at the right serving temperature what you want to drink immediately and allows you to keep the bottles that have a long wait in front of you at optimal conditions. It is useful for wine lovers and for those who do not want to miss a glass for dinner, for special occasions and a family dinner: the wine cellar is the best way to enjoy the passion for wine, at best. But which one to choose?

An object of desire accessible

The iconic wine cellar is that of Haier, market leader and No. 1 in the world in the production of wine cellars (Euromonitor International Limited 2019). In a quality wine cellar, the wine ages in an environment that is remarkably close to one cellar in natural stone preserving all its features. Its range is designed to adapt to the different needs of consumers from all points of view, from the design to capacity, passing by the best technologies.

Size and adaptability

From the 30 capacity bottles, the wine cellars Haier they can be as small as they can be under the kitchen top, or can accommodate up to 171 wines. I am free to install, from modern design and in black or steel with wooden shelves: so they adapt to any decor. You can insert them in the design phase or add them comfortably (even in other rooms of the house, because many people like to keep them in the living room, in the study or in the tavern).

Anti-UV protection

A wine cellar furnishes and shows its precious collection is a pride, but the bottles must be protected from harmful light rays that can alter the structure, the aromas and in general the quality of the wines. The anti-UV filter of the glass door of the Haier cellars protects every bottle from sunlight to best preserve it until the day you decide to uncork it.

Intelligent lighting

The lighting of the wine cellar must be pleasant, furnish, make the most precious collections visible, without producing heat. The cellars Haier they are all illuminated with LED lights – which also guarantee low energy consumption (all the cellars are class A).

Clean Air

Even if the bottles are sealed, the cork makes them "breathe" anyway. For this reason, it is important to preserve your wines in a clean atmosphere in order to preserve their characteristics, especially if the wines are destined for long aging. The Haier cellars are equipped with a active carbon filter which guarantees the cleanliness of the air so that it smells do not alter the sensorial qualities of wine.

Double temperature control

The right storage temperature is very important, both to fully enjoy the taste and aromas of each type of wine and to respect their natural evolution and maturation over time: it is a matter of degrees, and its regulation must be very precise. The intuitive touch display outside of the Haier cellars allows you to conveniently set the temperature without having to open the door, with precision. But not just one temperature! The function Double Zone of the cellars Haier allows to set two distinct temperatures inside the same cellar and keep it that way white wines and red wines ready for service.

Without vibrations and noise

The wine is particularly sensitive to micro-vibrations and noise, which can alter the aroma ruining the taste. The compressor of the cellars Haier it is equipped with a system that reduces vibrations and minimizes noise, so that the bottles retain their original aroma and, at the same time, it is possible to install the wine cellar in any room of the house, in complete tranquility.

The best of storage in the cellar, at home

Do you want to know more about the right storage of wines? Join the Il Meglio in Cantina community powered by Haier, the online magazine for curious and passionate people that brings you to discover experiences, tips, news and stories about the world of wine.

Guide to choosing the best white wine of South Tyrol – Italian Cuisine

Guide to choosing the best white wine of South Tyrol


The Trentino Alto Adige is a region where so many faces live together. The differences of the two macro areas known as Trentino and Alto Adige are also expressed in the most famous product of this Italian area: wine. Although red wines are just as interesting, they are the South Tyrolean whites to draw more attention to yourself. Discover how to choose the best white wine of South Tyrol for your dinner!

The origins of wine in South Tyrol

THE'South Tyrol is a territory that is part of the autonomous region with special statute known as Trentino Alto Adige. There are two provinces: that of Trento, which covers all the part known as Trentino, and that of Bolzano, to which South Tyrol refers. The two areas have strong linguistic and ethnic differences, but share a large chunk of wine history, which in Roman times saw the two areas unified under the name of Rezia. Viticulture developed very early in these two provinces. It has the first trace in an amphora dated 2000 BC found in Valle Isarco, in Alto Adige, inside which there are traces of grape seeds. An Etruscan vase called situla, dating back to the 8th century BC was instead found in Val di Cembra, in Trentino.

Both Trentino and South Tyrol are entirely mountainous areas. The river draws the boundaries of the various valleys Adige, which runs from north to south. The upper course of the Adige forms the Val Venosta and the Valle dell'Adige. Its largest tributary is the Isarco, in whose valley the Val Pusteria and the Valleys of Funes, Val Gardena, Val Egna and Val Sarentina converge. In South Tyrol the climate it is predominantly alpine, with strong seasonal and daily temperature ranges, although in some periods it is substantially mild, thanks to the mountain ranges that act as a barrier to the northern winds. The extraordinary aroma of these wines is therefore given both by the climatic element and by the different chemical composition of the soils, which influence the aromatic bouquet.

The most famous white wines of South Tyrol

Despite the not very vast production area, just 5,000 hectares, and the production of only 350,000 hectoliters, the wines from Alto Adige stand out for their numerous awards received. Furthermore, 98% of the wines produced in Alto Adice have the D.o.c. brand.

But what are they? the most famous white wines of South Tyrol? Impossible not to mention the Gewürztraminer, native vine known for its aromaticity. Despite the German name, this wine originates from Alto Adige and, to be precise, was born in Termeno, in the province of Bolzano. In German gewürz means spices while tramin is the German name of Termeno.

In all German-speaking countries the Traminer it was a vine known since the thirteenth century. Then this aromatic grape fell into oblivion until it became one of the most famous and appreciated South Tyrolean wines in the world thanks to its highly original bouquet. Today the Gewürztraminer it is also cultivated in the heart of Alto Adige enoico, in Appiano and Caldaro.

In this area, also known as Oltradige, some famous white grapes are grown, such as the Pinot Bianco. Winemakers trace its origin back to the genetic mutations of Pinot Noir or Pinot Gris. This international vine of French origins is cultivated all over the world, but found in Alto Adige, where it has been cultivated for over 150 years, one of its most suitable lands.

It is a very early vine, a characteristic that makes it suitable for extreme regions for viticulture such as South Tyrol. In the past it was often confused with Chardonnay. The wine obtained is of a beautiful straw yellow, fresh, dry and full-bodied. The Pinot Bianco it is also cultivated in the central stretch of the Valle Dell'Adige, between Terlano, Nalles and Andriano.

In the same area is cultivated Riesling. This vine grows among the red earths, the result of porphyritic pluvial deposits, giving birth to long-lived white wines. The most suitable territories for this type of vine are the valleys of the rivers Rhine, Main, Nahe, Moselle, Saar and Ruwer. However, Riesling grown in Italy produces a straw-colored wine with greenish reflections. The bouquet is fruity, with hints of peach and apricot, and a hydrocarbon finish. In South Tyrol it is also cultivated in the Isarco Valley.

In the Bassa Atesina, at record altitudes such as those in the Favogna area, is cultivated Müller Thurgau, a typical grape of the Val di Cembra, but which also in this area creates interesting expressions in a glass and bottle.

This vine owes its name to a Swiss winemaker, Hermann Müller. At the end of the nineteenth century, in the canton of Thurgau, it crossed the pollen of the Riesling Renano with a little known vine, called Madeleine Royal. The first to implant it in Trentino were the researchers of the Agricultural Institute of San Michele. Typical of the Val di Cembra, it adapts well to the cold climate. It reacts well on the porphyritic soils of the Adige Valley and on the lean and sandy ones of the Val Venosta.

The Sylvaner is a white grape variety originating in some of the Styria region, Austria, for others in the middle Rhine valley. Widespread in the Isarco Valley and in the central area of ​​the Adige Valley, the Sylvaner takes its name from the Latin word silva, which means wood. Recent DNA studies have shown that the vine comes from a cross between traminer and Austrian white. A straw yellow wine with greenish reflections is obtained. A pleasant dry wine with slightly bitter notes, it is flavored with the right acidity.

The Kerner is another of the vines that enrich the Isarco Valley. It is a semi-aromatic white berry vine. It was created in 1929 by August Herold, in Germany, crossing Schiava grossa (a variety also known as Trollinger) and Riesling. It owes its name to the German doctor and poet Justinus Kerner, who wrote numerous poems about this vine. D.o.c. Alto Adige since 1993, the Kerner it is a wine that appears straw yellow in the glass with golden reflections. It has an intense aroma that turns towards the Muscat. Fresh and fruity, it has less acidity than Riesling, a characteristic that makes up for with more body.

Although it is not a native vine, the region is suited to the cultivation of Chardonnay, which is well suited to the continental pre-Alpine climate. On its own it represents about a third of the entire regional production. This type of grape is used as a base for the production of Spumante Trento Doc classic method. It is grown in the central area of ​​the Valle Dell'Adige.

In the Adige Valley, between Bolzano and Merano, another international grape variety is grown, the Sauvignon. It is a white grape variety from the French area of ​​Bordeaux. The name derives from the French word sauvage (meaning "wild"), in homage to the origins of a native plant of the south-west of France. It is one of the most widespread vines in the world. The wines created with Sauvignon grapes must be consumed quickly. Aging in excess of one year does not give any improvement effects on the organoleptic characteristics.

The best wines to pair with fish

THE dishes based on fish they are celebrated worthily by all South Tyrolean white wines.

Thanks to its aromatic bouquet, the Gewürztraminer goes well with the sushi classic and sashimi, accompanied by a few slices of fresh ginger. It is also good in combination with raw fish, one barbeque or one Tempura of crustaceans. Perfect with the classic fillet of baked sea bream. Salmon, tuna, smoked herring, sardines and roasted stockfish are also incredibly valued by this aromatic wine.

The Müller Thurgau it goes perfectly with fish first courses such as pappardelle with fresh tuna and cherry tomatoes, penne prawns and zucchini and other shellfish sauces. Also perfect with grilled (or boiled) fish, accompanied by grilled vegetables.

The Kerner it goes well with dishes based on shellfish and appetizers of seafood. Also perfect with grilled fish accompanied by vegetables.

The Pinot Bianco it goes perfectly with fish terrine, trout and salami char slightly smoked.

The Riesling perfectly accompanies dishes based on monkfish and recipes with protagonists clams.

The best wines to pair with meat

Among the South Tyrolean wines to pair with meat, the still stands out Gewürztraminer, also very suitable for more refined dishes like the Foie gras (which also goes well with the Kerner). This wine enhances the exotic in an exceptional way chicken with curry.

The Sylvaner goes well with specialties of White meat, but also with mushrooms and spicy dishes. However, the perfect encounter is with the asparagus.

The best wines to pair with aperitifs

During an aperitif we can come across both small baked goods, foie gras and small crustacean tarts, and a rich selection of cheeses. For the latter type of dish the best South Tyrolean wines to serve are the Sauvignon, the Müller Thurgau, the Kerner and the Riesling (species combined with goat cheese).

The best table wines

Among the best wines to be enjoyed throughout the meal, from appetizers to desserts, there are definitely the Müller Thurgau and the Sylvaner.

The best dessert wines

The Gewürztraminer also exists in version raisin: with this wine you will build a winning combination even with desserts typical of the South as the Neapolitan pastiera.

Never South Tyrolean sweet wines they are numerous. In this land are produced Yellow Moscato Passito D.o.c. and the Moscato Rosa D.o.c. and blends built with Sauvignon, Pinot Bianco and Gewürztraminer. Each cellar offers its best expression to combine with cakes, pastries and pastries.

The best wines for aging

The South Tyrolean white wines that lend themselves best to aging are born in the Valle dell'Adige, between the municipalities of Terlano, Nalles and Andriano. The vines, fed by red porphyritic lands, produce Pinot Bianco, Chardonnay, Riesling, Müller Thurgau is Sylvaner.

The best wines to give away

Among the South Tyrolean wines to give the "prince of the cart" remains the aromatic and seductive Gewürztraminer, to give dry or passito. To amaze your guests, bet also on lesser known vines and all to be discovered like the Müller Thurgau, the Riesling "Made in Italy" and the Sylvaner.

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