Tag: Buon

Buon Ricordi turns 60, 100 chefs celebrate it in Vietri – Italian cuisine reinvented by Gordon Ramsay

The entire Italian culinary tradition met in Vietri sul Mare (Salerno, Amalfi Coast) to celebrate the 60th birthday ofUnion of Restaurants of Good Memory. “100 chefs for one evening” is the title of the memorable event which began in the heart of the city of ceramics – on Corso Umberto I – with a long table made of delicacies from every region ofItalyand ended on the Rosa dei Venti seafront with a gala dinner washed down with excellent Franciacorta, in which the trait d’union was the team spirit and true friendship of the chefs of Buon Ricordi, proud to be the standard-bearers of the more authentic quality Italian cuisine.

Vietri and its ceramics: the cradle of Good Memory

The location was not chosen by chance: the oldest restaurateurs’ association in Italy is linked to Vietri sul Mare by the fact that – since 1964 – they are produced there, in the historic Ceramica Solimene the famous dishes which depict the symbolic dish of each restaurant, given as a gift as a “BuonRicordo”, of an unforgettable culinary experience. “For us restaurateurs at Buon Ricordi it is a dream that has come true. Celebrating 60 years of activity in the place from which everything started in 1964 with the famous hand-decorated plates from Ceramica Solimene it has finally become reality”, underlined the president Cesare Carbone and the general secretary Luciano Spigaroli.

The Good Memory dinner, good twice

Venetian-style creamed cod with pearl white corn polenta and cereal bread crouton, “Matte” Trofie with Genoese pesto with DOP basil and 60-month DOP Parmigiano Reggiano, Darna of seared fish with citrus fruits from the two Coasts, Lemon delight (edited of the Academy of Masters of Mother Yeast and Italian Panettone); paired with Franciacorta Brut and Franciacorta Satèn Brut, whose perlage enhanced every single dish. This is the menu for the sea view dinner, the proceeds of which went to charity, in favor of two local associations: L’Abbraccio OdV and OPEN-Pediatric Oncology and Neuroblastoma Onlus. Furthermore, the chefs provided their work for free. As per the Good Memory tradition, all the guests received a I remember the 60th anniversary dish from the evening lovingly painted by the artisans of Ceramica Solimene of Vietri sul Mare, made in a special dated and numbered edition.

The entire event enjoyed the patronage of the Campania Region, the Province of Salerno, the Municipality of Vietri sul Mare, the Amalfi Coast Tourist District and was created with the contribution of the Chamber of Commerce and the CNA of Salerno and the support of the Restaurateurs Association and of the Pro Loco of Vietri.

What is the Union of Restaurants of Good Memory?

L’Union of Restaurants of Good Memory it was the first association of restaurateurs born in Italy and is still the most widespread and well-known today. 60 years of age, 112 brands, of which 11 abroad: since 1964 the URBR has safeguarded and valorised the many Italian gastronomic traditions and cultures, uniting countryside and city restaurants and trattorias under the aegis of local cuisine, from North to South. To characterize each restaurantand to create a trait d’union between them, is today as in the past the symbolic plate hand-painted by the artisans of Solimene Artistic Ceramics of Vietri sul Mare where the restaurant’s specialty is depicted, which is given to guests in memory of a pleasant gastronomic experience to remember. Taken together, the associated restaurants represent, with the extraordinary variety of their cuisines, the very rich mosaic of Italian gastronomy.

Look at the photos of the event

Capon Supreme by Giuseppe Verdi: recipe for Buon Ricordo – Italian Cuisine

From the lands of Polesine Parmense, one of the symbolic dishes of the Buon Ricordo restaurants, that of Massimo Spigaroli: a tribute to Giuseppe Verdi and an ode to the capon

The restaurant of the Spigaroli brothers, Massimo and Luciano, was born as a tavern at the landing place of a ferry on the embankment of the river Po, in the Parma lowlands, and even today that has become a star-studded restaurant it somehow preserves its atmosphere. "In Parma it is difficult to live," said the Duchess Maria Luigia, "provided you know how to give reason to the interlocutor in a musical or gastronomic discussion". In these parts, in fact, all are foodies and musicophiles in their own way, if only because Busseto is a stone's throw away and Giuseppe Verdi is considered first of all a fellow villager. It is no coincidence that the Buon Ricordo plate of the house, Capon Supreme by Giuseppe Verdi, is a tribute to the great composer, who despite the worldwide fame has always personally managed the family farm. In the extraordinary food scenario of Emilia, these lands on the lower border between Parma and Piacenza are the home of the noblest salami, the culatello di Zibello, which reigns supreme over a varied court of other cured meats – Parma ham, cooked shoulder of San Second, staple, coppa, pancetta – and then the salami: gentile, cresponetto, mariola, strolghino … The Spigaroli themselves breed pigs of the ancient Black Parmigiana breed, of Spanish ancestry, and produce internationally renowned cured meats, destined for big names of catering, as can be seen from the visit to the basement of the Corte Pallavicina, a stone's throw from Cavallino Bianco, where the precious culatelli season impeccably, according to those concerned, thanks to the Po valley fog. But that's not all, because every type of vegetable and fruit comes from the farm, as well as white beef from the Po valley, chickens and ducks, geese that flock in meadows … As for wines, it occurs a singular separation between hills and plains, because if the best-known productions come from the first Apennines in the Bassa, we discover the use of accompanying local salami with Malvasia, a white in a rough version, as with Fortana, a red equally prone to sparkling.

A waltz menu

Scrolling through the calendar of the Cavallino Bianco is like jumping into a round of brilliant Verdi waltzes. Each season has its events, nicely declined to the gerund: the first mention belongs to the winter appointment with Maialando, dedicated to meats and sausages that are the pride of the company, but similar events are dedicated to the snail, the river fish, the frog , duck, grilled, cold cuts, pumpkin and goose. In short, a tour de force with a review that then summarizes it, Recalling, gastronomic elegy of the past.

Capon Supreme by Giuseppe Verdi: the specialty of Buon Ricordo

These are the lands of Giuseppe Verdi: in Busseto we visit the places dear to the master, and then we move to Polesine Parmense, on the banks of the Po, to the Spigaroli brothers, the most suitable people to reveal their flavors and secrets. Having said that, we understand the proposal of this suprême, a specialty of French cuisine discovered by Verdi at the table of large hotels and re-proposed on special occasions also in the villa of Sant’Agata. The big capon, the capon, not plus ultra of white meat, honored by the truffle, white or black depending on the season, undiscovered richness of the Bassa. The dish requires a certain amount of chicken sauce to prepare in advance: take the leftovers from the breasts or whatever and brown them with chopped aromatic vegetables, then wet with broth and let boil for three to four hours; once filtered, what is found is the base which can be used as a base for the sauce of the supreme. A concentrate of meat will avoid this preliminary, but the difference will be very evident.

Ingredients for 6 people

6 local capon breasts
50 g of chopped leek white or black truffle
1 dl of Champagne
100 g of chicken sauce
100 g of butter
50 g of flour

For the flan
300 g of boiled zucchini
1⁄2 liter of milk
80 g of white flour
50 g of butter
100 g of grated Parmesan cheese
3 eggs
pepper

Method

Melt the butter in a saucepan and brown the leek; flour the capon breasts and add them on the fire; when they have browned, add the champagne, let it evaporate and add the chicken sauce, then put everything in the oven for a quarter of an hour. Remove the breasts from the saucepan and put it back on the fire to reduce the cooking bottom by one third; add part of the sliced truffle. Cut the breast into transverse slices, arranging them in a row on the plate, slightly overlapping; evenly distribute the sauce obtained and complete with a few slices of truffle.

Serve with a small courgette flan prepared in this way: use milk, flour and butter for a béchamel, to which mix the grated cheese, eggs and courgettes, which you have previously cut into cubes and cooked in butter or oil. Pour the mixture into buttered or non-stick single-portion molds, to be put in the oven for cooking in a bain-marie at 130 degrees.

Recommended wine: Gutturnio dei Colli Piacentini Doc lively

Euphrosine and the cuisine of Buon Ricordo in Rome – Italian Cuisine

In Tor Pignattara he opened a restaurant whose menu is taken from the recipe books of grandmothers from all over Italy and which immediately applied to become the new restaurant of the Romans' Buon Ricordo

Do you remember them at Buon Ricordo Restaurants? Those with ceramic plates from Deruta hung on the wall, that if you were a good customer, would they give it to you as well? Well yes, they still exist and in Rome, in the heart of Tor Pignattara, Euphrosine was born, tavern-trattoria that took its cue from this glorious tradition, immediately applying to the Association of Buon Ricordo restaurants, which at the moment in Rome has only the mythological Taberna dei Gracchi and Checchino associated since 1887.

The restaurant of the past

The dishes hanging on the wall from Eufrosino are already there, but for now they are those of other restaurants scattered throughout Italy, purchased in the markets to make furnishings. The furniture, in fact, is that of a restaurant of the past, with the dark wood boiserie, the green pool table lamps, old-fashioned tables and chairs, not to mention the mise en place, the penalty checkered tablecloth is missing , but each place is marked by a placemat of those laced with a tray of the eighties pastas.

In short, the declared intention is to to take a dip in the past, at the time when finding Buon Ricordo ceramic plates was a guarantee of quality. As the patron Marco Pucciotti says "the restaurants of good memories, if you think about it, were the beginnings of the gastronomic guides: those who were part of it had a kind of seal that guaranteed that rustic, but good cuisine was eaten there".

For the uninitiated, Euphrosine is the patron saint of cooks. But what do you eat at Euphrosine? Rustic Italian cuisine, but good, in fact, without a precise regional reference and without frills, apart from the excellent technique of the chef Paolo D’Ercole. «We don't want to be a Roman trattoria, we don't want to enter the cliché of the most holy trinity carbonara-cacioepepe-amatriciana found throughout Rome. Here the inspiration comes from the huge catalog of recipes from everyone's grandmothers. " So you go from the family cookbook of chef Paolo D’Ercole, his partner, Pucciotti himself and even customers, who have already started to propose to the chef to try their madeleine.

The menu changes every 3-4 months and we tried it in winter, so it is likely that we will not find the dishes that hit us soon. However, the cardoon parmigiana deserves a mention, such as the guinea fowl pie and the timbale of tortellini full of cream, which tickles the memories of those who lived them dangerously (for coronaries) in the eighties.

And then there is the bread, which is part of the synergy that accompanies Euphrosine and his different twin, A Rota, or the Roman pizzeria that is next door. The two rooms are connected by a couple of passages, one for the staff and one for the "services" or bathrooms that are shared. The continuity ends here, because the two rooms are furnished in a completely different way, as if to underline their caesura, right from the light that if from Eufrosino it is heated by the wooden walls, from A Rota it is almost blinding. The bread, we said, is prepared by the golden hands of Sami El Sabawy, pizza maker and baker, who on one hand stretches out round a rolling pin and on the other prepares loaves ready to become a shoe.

To keep the ranks of this complex narrative of recovery of tradition, Italian on the one hand, very Roman on the other, as was anticipated is the patron Marco Pucciotti, old fox of the restaurant that with its many openings has changed the face of the Appio neighborhood Tuscolano (Epirus, Sbanco, Blind Pig, Barley Wine). With this new double opening in the Tor Pignattara district, Tor Pigna for friends has launched onto new ground of conquest, even if "the town hall is the same", he points out. And, apparently, despite the complexity of an even more popular neighborhood than those in which it has moved so far, as well as one of the most multi-ethnic in the capital, Pucciotti has achieved yet another critical and public success.

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