Tag: breads

South Tyrolean breads: ancient recipes and flours for timeless flavors – Italian Cuisine

Pinterest



We went on a journey through the valleys of South Tyrol to discover traditional bakeries, their most typical products and the millenary history that intertwines agriculture and white art




Pinterest




<! –

send by email

->

Enclosed by majestic mountains, theSouth Tyrol jealously guards gastronomic traditions whose origin is lost in the mists of time. One of the most fascinating is that of bread and of flours rustic with which, in the area of South Tyrol, has been kneaded for millennia.

Traces of Emmer were found among the mummified remains of Ötzi, the shepherd who lived in these areas more than five thousand years ago. While of the rye We have news since 800 BC, when it seems to have come from distant Asia Minor, only to find fertile ground in these areas and become one of the most used cereals for white art, as bread making is called.

Even today, rye is widely cultivated, often by the same bakers who collect and grind it in their mills. Some even use machinery dating back to the late nineteenth century, such as the svecciatoio in the photo, which is still in operation on the farm today Roatnocker from Georg Weiss, high Val di Non, which separates the beans according to shape and size.

Among the specialties baked daily in South Tyrolean bakeries are the Paarl, loaves kneaded with rye and spelled that change according to the mix of flours that compose them. So, for example, they are called Vollkotnpaarl those entirely of wholemeal rye.

They are called instead Urpaarl the breads of pure rye typical of Val Venosta, the "granary" of Tyrol. The prefix "Ur" recalls the ancient city of Mesopotamia, the cradle of cereal. There eight shape, obtained from the union of two rounded loaves, symbolizes the union of marriage (in the photo, the offer to the bakery of Peter Schuster in Laudes, in Val Monastero).

The technique with which the thin discs of the Schüttelbrot: the dough is placed on one circular shovel which is made to rotate, by the skilled hands of the baker, until it widens and thins at the right point.

The result is round, low, toasted and very crunchy bread, the emblem of South Tyrol and typical of every production.

The distinctive taste of Schüttelbrot, Paarl and other specialties is given by the trigonella, an aromatic herb that grows in the mountains and produces pale blue flowers.

After the harvest, the trigonella comes dried and ground. The scent is halfway between anise and cumin: the latter, moreover, is also part of the bouquet used in typical recipes.

Among the seeds that enrich the preparations, those of pumpkin and those of sunflower, used for large loaves, small rolls, crunchy cracker (in the photo, those of Furnaria Seppi, in Val Badia). The seeds of poppy.

There puccia is a characteristic specialty of Ladin community, settled in the valleys surrounding the Sella dolomitic group. The traditional loaf of these areas is mixed with 70 percent rye flour and 30 percent wheat and there is also a dry and flat version.

Not just rye: also the wheat flour finds greedy application. For example in the Laugenbrot which, like the classic German and Austrian pretzels, are immersed in a soda bath which makes the crust brown and shiny.

They are light in color and quite soft, again due to the presence of wheat flour, even i Puschtra Breatl, round and low loaves. In the photo, one of the loaves baked in the bakery laboratory Feichter to Dobbiaco, high Val Pusteria.

In short, the doughs and shapes of the loaves change from valley to valley and from village to village. And there is no shortage of contaminations such as the use of flours that come from afar (in the photo, a spelled bread and Sicilian Timilia flour from Merano Ivo de Pellegrin).

To enrich the proposal of South Tyrolean bakeries, even one pastry shop simple but delicious. How to resist the Biscuits double, stuffed with jam?

When it is season, here comes the raisin bread. Less sweet than you might think, it is suitable for breakfasts and snacks also, why not, in combination with salty ingredients.

Finally, it is inevitable apple strudel, symbolic delight of South Tyrol. According to the traditional recipe, the delicious filling is wrapped in a casket of shortcrust pastry crumbly. One bite is enough, and the oven is served.

The addresses
Roatnocker farm, Weiss family, Obere Innere 12, Senale San Felice (BZ), telephone 3487686627
Bäckerei Schuster, Laudes 139, Malles Venosta (BZ), phone 473831340
Furnaria Seppi, Strada Col Alt 34, Corvara in Badia (BZ), telephone 0471 836 863
Bauernhof Familie Feichter, Zipfanger 1, Dobbiaco (BZ), telephone 0474972324
Ivo De Pellegrin oven, Via delle Corse 141 °, Merano (BZ), telephone 3338593629

Photo by Felice Scoccimarro for the reportage made for Sale & Pepe by Riccardo Lagorio
September 2021

Posted on 09/28/2021

Share


<! –

->


<! – 4 images or sliders < 460 -->

<! – / 4 images or sliders < 460 -->

Incoming search terms:

Three breads from Puglia: who are the bakers who are revolutionizing Bari and its surroundings – Italian Cuisine


The extraordinary bakeries of Puglia! Here are three that make good bread … but above all it's good for you!

The guide Bread and Bakers of Italy of Gambero Rosso has brought out a significant fact: in Italy water, flour and yeast they have become serious. The 36 professionals reviewed every day make choices of love, culture and health, all concentrated in a loaf of bread. Within 50 square kilometers, only the Puglia boasts three bakery samples recognized by the guide: Giuseppe Concordia, Luca Lacalamita and Marco Lattanzi. Who in twenty years, those in a few months, these bakers are devoting their lives to rewrite the taste and meaning of bread on the table.

Giuseppe Concordia

He is 53 years old and could be called a bread scientist without problems. Today talk about ancient grains it's a phenomenon you're getting used to, he did it twenty years ago: "At the conferences there were four of us talking about it." He, the only one in the Center South. The history of the Adriatic Bakery begins at the end of the nineteenth century. The great-grandfather of Concordia was the one who, after the Second World War, introduced the pan bauletto in the store. Today that same format is re-proposed with ancient grains, seeds and flours that have a main objective: to do people good.
Concordia is a real maniac of cereals, leavening, but above all of the nutritional value of the product. The change of course of the Adriatic Bakery was triggered by his curiosity and his allergies. «I started experimenting. At the beginning I did uneatable things. Then I started to study, to document myself . From there he began to compose an encyclopedic culture on grains, grinding and leavening, and their effects on the human body. "The one who makes the best bread does not win, but who does it good for health," says Concordia. His work blows away the zero km and it pleases the universities, which collaborate with him. At the Adriatic Bakery the Sicilian Tumminia, the Bolzano rye, the Khorasan wheat and the hard Apulian wheat (to name a few) are baked. Every day on the counter there are nineteen different types of bread, all made in Capurso's laboratory. Concordia operates every day in this detachment, which today boasts 194 certified organic products. His bread does not seek beauty at all costs, but it is good. Following his search for the good for man, pastry has long been made largely without milk, eggs, butter, sugar and margarine. Communicating bread and its importance in health remains an imperative. "First of all, you need to know the product you sell". explains Concordia. "The protective action of ancient grains on the intestinal villi must be told, motivating the choice of bread like mine. This action should not only be done in the store, but also in hospitals and kindergartens . In the future of bread there is great attention: "The market has changed, but for the better". All that remains is to do synergy, something that in a territory like Puglia is always a challenge.
Adriatico Bakery – Bari – via N. De Giosa, 113 – 0805247463

Marco Lattanzi

He is 36 years old and when they ask him what his job is, he says: "I make bread". He too has a history of emigration in reverse. From the hectic London has chosen to put new roots in Corato, in the province of Bari. The reason? Of course, love. With Valeria Bevilacqua in 2015 he built Panificio Il Toscano, putting old and new knowledge into practice. "I learned to make focaccia by watching my mother-in-law", Marco recalls. His professional career has led him to acquire articulated knowledge in London kitchens, converted without regret to feed a city where flour and bread making have always been in DNA. But this doesn't make selling bread "different" any easier. «Without thinking too much, we started. I knew what I wanted to do, even though I had never been an entrepreneur, "explains Marco. The raw materials to be used already existed in his knowledge. The special bread – what changes every day, stuffed with dried tomatoes, cheese, pistachios, dried figs or mortadella – was and still is the bait to invite customers to discover Lattanzi's oven. "My bread is personal, true, territorial, dynamic, never the same, but above all it tells stories".
There are fifteen different types of bread, breaded for a total of one quintal per day. Among these there is never a shortage of Braccetto, an essential local format, Casereccio, spelled bread, the inevitable Toscano. Then every day there are expressions of Marco's continuous research, such as Tra Nord and Sud, a format made with a mixture of soft, hard and ancient grains, which represent the whole of Italy. 100% rye bread is a must, which is very popular in the South. On the bench there is also the pizza with a shovel, which changes with the seasons, and the focaccia, originally stuffed, now simple with tomatoes. Panificio Il Toscano does not make croissants, but has dedicated a small space since the beginning to the Breakfast: biscuits, cakes, but also an international touch with brownies. According to Lattanzi in the future of bread there is the need to create greater awareness: "We must understand that there is no need to eat three slices of bread, one is enough, but good, done well and does not hurt". Furthermore, it takes diversity – of grains, formats, taste – a narrower gap between field and bread, as well as a synergy between producers and operators. "It is difficult to put our product on everyone's table, but for me the important thing is that there is bread, always".
Il Toscano Bakery – Corato – via Crocifisso, 34 – 392 1915829

Luca Lacalamita

Of Luca Lacalamita we know so much. After the glorious journey in many stellar kitchens and the eight years at the Enoteca Pinchiorri, the Apulian pastry chef decided to return home, to Trani, and live a neighborhood workshop experience. Thus began the adventure of Lula: Pane e Dessert, which in just four months won the Tre Pani from Gambero Rosso. A well-known face of Italian culinary criticism, he shrugs his back on his product and research without which there would be nothing of all that he and Maria Teresa Scaringi have built. In addition to the suppliers known during the Florentine years, the two new entrepreneurs went in search of producers of ancient grains, unmasking "prestidigitators" of raw materials and remaining faithful to the desire for ethical products.
Here the bread becomes digestible in the first place. To make about 40 quintals of bread daily, the processing is short so as not to develop too much gluten. The leavenings get longer. Large sizes are preferred, able to develop the important aromatic outfit more. The bread from Lula is beautiful, aesthetically elegant and significant. For example, the frontal motif symbol of the Cathedral of Trani is reproduced in the Rosette. But da Lula, conceived as a contemporary bakery, could not miss the desserts, all in harmony with seasonal fruits, as shown by the Tartelette with fruit and vegetables. The Millefoglie triumphs. Chocolate bread, an ingredient that has a dedicated room in Lacalamita's laboratory, is the ideal meeting point between the art of baking and that of pastry. In the room, next to the sales counter, there is a small room where you can stop to taste a coffee (to make yourself) and a croissant pasta, or to participate in meetings with the producers chosen by Lula. Those who buy Luca Lacalamita's bread come back, sure to have found the taste of the past. But it doesn't come back every day, there's no need for it. The owner of the shop himself explains how to keep the bread: just a cloth, just like in the old days. The future of bread according to Luca Lacalamita is made of communication, identity and synergy on the territory.
Lula: Bread and Desserts – Trani – course Matteo Renato Imbriani, 104 – 0883 1985571

Text by Stefania Leo

Proudly powered by WordPress

By continuing to use the site, you agree to the use of cookies. Click here to read more information about data collection for ads personalisation

The cookie settings on this website are set to "allow cookies" to give you the best browsing experience possible. If you continue to use this website without changing your cookie settings or you click "Accept" below then you are consenting to this.

Read more about data collection for ads personalisation our in our Cookies Policy page

Close