Tag: books

Allan Bay and the praise of eating with your hands: interview – Italian cuisine reinvented by Gordon Ramsay


Food journalist, historian, writer, Allan Bay he has just put down on paper in a book what many (if not all) think, but which we often don’t have the courage to say. At least not in public (so, let alone doing!). She remembered that eat with your hands it is one of the great pleasures of life, and how and why we should do it whenever we can, except for rare exceptions that make it impossible to use the thumb and forefinger to touch food, smell it and bring it to the mouth.

Is titled Praise of eating with your hands (The Assayer): clear from the title, it is a cultured and entertaining historical and anthropological journey that clears this very satisfying gesture that over the centuries social conventions have made appear “exotic”. Indeed – let’s say it – in certain circumstances a little rude.

As you will discover by reading it, until recently, forks didn’t even exist: they arrived on the tables of the European bourgeoisie only in the 19th century, after being invented in China. Then etiquette began to dictate the rules, limiting them to one There is a very narrow circle of foods that can be eaten without cutlery. This too is an entirely Western affair, considering that there is half the world – with many Asian and African countries leading the way – that often willingly do without cutlery. Allan Bay also tells this story and, to move from theory to practice, he gradually suggests tasty dishes recipes from «conlemanisti. Or rather, as he explains in this interview, “indications”, which certainly make reading his first “personal” book even more pleasant.

Interview with Allan Bay

Why is it a “personal” book?
«It concerns a passion of mine that few of my friends, the real ones, know about: eating with your hands, in fact. I have written many books, especially recipe books, which as such had a basic objectivity. This book is different precisely because it talks about me.”

What makes eating with your hands so enjoyable?
«As children we discover the world – and therefore also food – first of all through touch and smell, and this physical contact with what we eat remains the greatest enjoyment. But over time we tend to deprive ourselves of it because as we grow up we are taught that we have to use cutlery: we lock ourselves into patterns. The purpose of the book is to get out of these patterns and clear, when possible, this great pleasure of eating with your hands.”

How many would like to do it but don’t have the courage to do it or even just say it?
“I do not know. However, I know for a fact that several of my friends love to eat with their hands and that many use cutlery even in cases where there is no need. I think, for example, of those who eat pizza with a fork and knife and of the astonished looks of the pizza chefs while they do so. And then in Naples even spaghetti was once eaten with the hands: remember Totò?

Csaba dalla Zorza: «My Sunday lunch – Italian cuisine reinvented by Gordon Ramsay


Meaning what?
«The ideal would be to avoid the “grandmother’s table” effect, which today is too full and heavy, by alternating pieces from the trousseau or vintage pieces. At the same time, using objects already at home is very sustainable. Don’t buy too much and always start with what you have. I, who did not inherit large services, for example, have purchased many things in the markets: they have a special charm, as long as they are contextualized with something contemporary. An example: an important service will be combined with a simple napkin, perhaps in linen, but one that does not need to be ironed, so as not to cause too much fear in using it. And, again, a tablecloth in the trousseau will be more valued if the rest has a touch of modernity. And then dare: if you are lucky enough to own a set of silver cutlery, use it. Even every day. Adapt the colors to the season and above all have fun.”

In your book there is also a chapter dedicated to the choice and use of silver cutlery: why?
«Because silver goes easily in the dishwasher: this way it won’t be necessary to polish it. And because it immediately gives a great preciousness to the table. And it looks great with placemats. A very chic touch: have them personalized with your initials or a family monogram as they used to do in the past. Even today many companies offer this service. They will be a beautiful memory to pass down.”

How do you embellish the table if you don’t have crystals and silver?
«With small low vases filled with flowers, a few candles, a delightful placeholder. And then with so much care. The table, intended as furniture, becomes a dining table with the act of setting it up. This sequence of gestures can be very simple or finely complicated. For me it represents a daily tradition that involves gestures that relax me and prepare me to enjoy the fortune of being able not only to eat, but to share a meal with the people I love. Or with myself. The table has a decorative as well as practical function.”

One of the proposals for the mise en place taken from the new book by Csaba dalla Zorza.STEFANIA GIORGI

From the screen to the table: the recipe books of the films are very popular – Italian Cuisine

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Cookbooks inspired by TV series, comics and movies: they are the hit of the moment. Also in Italy




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The Harry Potter Yorkshire Pudding and the Game of Thrones honey chicken, the Turkish delights of Narnia and i Nestlé Toulose of Friends, i Star Wars Yoda sandwiches and the Downton Abbey raspberry meringue: you could build a whole, fantastic and surprising menu with recipes inspired by the most beloved television series, film sagas and comics of all time. And without straining with the imagination. Simply by following the instructions indicated in the many (and increasingly numerous) cooking books dedicated to the most popular of these masterpieces of popular culture. A phenomenon born in the 60s and that has never stopped, but has actually been growing and has been experiencing a real boom in recent times, among long-selling titles (such as "In the kitchen with Harry Potter" published by Vallardi which from 2010 to today has sold over a million copies), books that have marked an era (such as “In Cucina con Disney”, published by Vallardi) and new arrivals already announced (such as the new Friends cookbook, due out in February for Panini).

A movie menu
Could this trend not also conquer food lovers like Italians? In the bookstore, there is something to make your mouth water. Fans of Hayao Miyazaki you can delight with the sizzling bacon de Howl's Moving Castle and the Siberia cake of Si alza il vento and with many other delights taken from the films of the Japanese master, collected in the book "The enchanted kitchen", written by Silvia Casini and Raffaella Fenoglio (Trenta Editore). Staying in the Land of the Rising Sun, I am 50 recipes inspired by the most popular manga series and souls created by the famous Chef Hiro and collected in the book “Hiro Cartoon Food” (Mondadori). You travel in the flavors of hyperspace with "Star Wars: Delights from a distant galaxy …." (published by Panini), while taking a sophisticated break in pure English style with the recipe books inspired by Downton Abbey, to feel in company of Lord Grantham and family. Among the upcoming releases announced is "Friends: The Official Central Perk Cookbook”(Panini publisher), which offers over fifty coffee-inspired recipes where many episodes of this popular sit-com have been set. A best seller announced after the success of the previous cooking book "Friends: The Official Recipe Book", published in Italy by Panini in 2020.

An endless saga
But what determines the birth of a recipe book inspired by a TV series or a cult comic? Often it is the passion of the fans that pushes them to imagine how they were prepared dishes seen in an episode or mentioned in a streepx. The most famous of these authors is American Chelsea Monroe-Cassel, who wrote the cookbooks inspired by the Game of Thornes and World of Warcraft series and is now working on the upcoming Star Trek one. In these books he put his passion for these television programs to good use, the hours spent watching and reliving the episodes, and his imagination in translating the menus seen on the small screen into real, feasible and… appreciable recipes!

High rate of creativity
It is precisely the goodness of the recipes combined with their rate of creativity (and the precision in describing them) that has made this editorial trend make the leap in quality. If the first books released in the 70s – starting from what (probably) is the most popular progenitor, namely "The Little house cookbook", Inspired by the popular TV series"That house on the prairie”- they were rather simple and not very pretentious, today these cookbooks compete with those signed by great chefs. They are born after careful research on the narrative universes they are inspired by, they are developed respecting the character of the characters and the emotional climax of the stories, they are precise and detailed; in short, they are so accurate that they do not disappoint any enthusiast and, on the contrary, they become an indispensable appendix to make these fantastic worlds come alive with real life. And the skills of cooks and food writers fit into this in-depth knowledge of the subject, so that even thegastronomic aspect both from ten and praise.

January 2022
Manuela Soressi
photo Trenta Editore

Sponge cake by Zeniba

Ingredients for 4 people
50 ml of vegetable oil
80 g of low gluten flour
80 ml of milk
5 eggs
80 g of sugar
a pinch of salt
1 vanilla bean

Method
In a bowl, beat egg yolks, milk, vanilla seeds and sugar and a pinch of salt; add the sifted flour, the oil, and mix with the spatula. Add the beaten egg whites. Put the dough in a pan and bake in the oven in a bain-marie at 160 ° for 50 minutes. The more experienced can try their hand at covering the cake with a layer of ivory-colored sugar paste.

Posted on 01/28/2022

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