Tag: Ascoli

The Ascoli olives and the strength of a woman in the operating room – Italian Cuisine

The Ascoli olives and the strength of a woman in the operating room


In Ancona, an avant-garde surgical practice called "awake surgery" and the exquisite olives of Ascoli intertwine in a story that has an incredible

Prepare the Ascoli olives while being operated on by the brain as a wake-up call. The news reported by Ansa quickly traveled around the world, up to the major American television networks. A story that is incredible and that happened in the capital of the Marche, at the Ospedali Riuniti of Ancona. The woman, a sixty-year-old from Abruzzo, prepared 90 stuffed olives in just under an hour, while undergoing surgery on the left temporal lobe, an area responsible for the control and organization of language and complex movements of the right part of the body. It is a consolidated practice called "cutting edge" awake surgery, which allows you to monitor the patient while surgeons intervene on brain functions.

"Everything went well," Dr. Roberto Trignani, head of the Department of Neurosurgery, at the end of the operation, which lasted a total of two and a half hours and which involved 11 people including neurosurgeons, neuroanesthesiologists, nurses, a psychologist, a neurophysiology technician.

Now, the news itself could rightly be relegated to the medical field, if it were not for the great value that the kitchen assumes in the life of all of us. An activity that is part of our culture, of daily life, so much so that it becomes a panacea for the most difficult moments and, as in this case, an indispensable placebo saves lives in the operating room.

So here is what the Ascoli olives are and how they are prepared from the nineteenth century to today.

The Tenera Ascolana, the giant olive

The tradition of stuffed olives in Ascoli is widespread among the provinces of Ascoli Piceno and in Abruzzo of Teramo, where tender olives can be found, a prized variety of giant olives. From noble preparation, today this dish has become one of the emblems of street food. It is a giant ellipsoidal and elongated olive (each drupe weighs 4 to eight grams), with fleshy pulp. The color of the fruit goes from green to straw yellow until it becomes purple with full ripeness. It is one of the four Italian PDOs, but the production is particularly limited and, above all, the tender is difficult to pitting with a knife due to its fragility. Reason why artisan producers apply a higher price for stuffed Ascoli. The food industries offer them in the fridge of supermarkets with fillings of various kinds, but this variety is hardly used in industry, due to the limited cultivation. Furthermore, in Ascoli Piceno, if it is not prepared by hand, it is not a real "fried liva ascolana".

The recipe for Ascoli olives

The recipe for stuffed olives is very old. It dates back to 1800. Preparation takes several hours and each family has its own version. The differences come from the choice of meats, the use of spices or lemon, breading and, of course, the type of olive. In Ascoli, every restaurateur has his own little secret that makes them unique, local delicatessens send them home throughout Italy.

Ingredients

To make 100 stuffed olives (about 1.5 kg of finished product)

1 kilo of “tener Ascoli” olives; 300 grams of beef pulp; 100 grams of pork meat; 100 grams of chicken or turkey breast; a hectogram of grated Parmesan; three fresh eggs; nutmeg; zest of 1/2 untreated lemon; a clove; a stalk of celery; an onion; a glass of white wine; 00 flour; bread crumbs; extra virgin olive oil and salt.

Method

Once the olives have been drained from their brine, one of the main precautions is to keep the olives in fresh water for a few hours with a generous dose of wild fennel (in the local dialect "bastard fennel"). Chop celery, carrot and onion and a clove and just brown them with a little oil in a saucepan. Cut the meat into small pieces, brown it together with the vegetables and lemon zest until golden brown, then blend with the white wine, preferably from the Picene hills (a good Falerio) and season with salt. When the meat is cooked, it must be left to cool and then grind it to a very fine grain with a meat grinder or mixer. Add a pinch of nutmeg, 2 eggs and Parmesan; mix well mixing until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.

In the meantime, pitted the olives with a smooth blade knife: starting from the stalk, cut the pulp from the core by drawing a spiral without ever detaching the blade from the olive, thus obtaining a single strip of pulp. Take the dough and fill the olives by reassembling the original shape of the fruit with the peel. Pass each olive first in the flour, then in the beaten egg and finally in the breadcrumbs. In a large pan, bring the temperature of the extra virgin olive oil (or sunflower) to 170 degrees and immerse the olives by turning them until they are golden brown outside; drain them, place them on a paper towel and serve them still hot.

The varieties of olives and the recipe of Ascoli olives – Italian Cuisine

The varieties of olives and the recipe of Ascoli olives


In brine, in oil, stuffed, fried: there are many ways to taste olives, an indispensable ingredient for a perfect aperitif. And can you listen to those from Ascoli?

They are like cherries, one leads to another. The olives they are the fruit of the olive tree, a very long-lived plant native to Asia that lives in warm and sunny places, with a Mediterranean climate, which in Italy is cultivated above all in Liguria, Tuscany and the southern regions.

Olives: a rich fruit

The olives are fleshy berries, with a green or black color, different in size and taste, with a typically ovoid shape. In Italy there are about 50 varieties, divided between table olives and olive oil. The first are harvested at the end of full ripening, in winter (especially the black ones) or in late summer (the green ones). The others, on the other hand, are picked a little before they are completely ripe, in order to obtain a low-acid oil with specific organoleptic characteristics. Some olives, such as the Oliva Bella della Daunia (produced in the Foggia area) and the Oliva Ascolana del Piceno (produced in Ascoli Piceno and Teramo), have received the protected designation of origin. The olives must be treated before being consumed: they cannot be used immediately after harvesting. Normally they undergo a fermentation process and are then immersed in a brine enriched with lactic acid. Some green varieties are instead sweetened with lime and caustic soda treatments. Or they are sweetened, kept in salt and finally washed and left to dry in the oven for a short time. On appearance they appear dry and wrinkled.

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Delicious on the table

In brine, in oil, baked, stuffed: there are many ways to serve olives, excellent as an aperitif or for a mid-day snack. There are some on the market different qualities, each with its own sensory profile. The blacks of Gaeta they are small, light brown in color and have a slightly bitter and slightly acid taste; those called "from Greece", are large, dark purple, are put in brine with the addition of vinegar and have a sharp taste. They are perfect in salads. The most famous greens are those of Cerignola, large, sweet and with a crunchy pulp. Instead, they are smaller than Naples, of a bright green, sweet and soft. Then there are the white olives, typical of Sicily, which are left in a strong brine to lose color and then placed in water to sweeten.

Ascoli olives

They are always very welcome. It is not impossible to do them. Below recipe.

In a saucepan, fry 80 g of lard with a little oil. Once melted add 100 g of beef and 100 g of pork meat. Fry for a few minutes, add 1 tablespoon of double tomato paste and cook over low heat for about 30 minutes. Add 40 g of veal liver, leave on the heat for another 5 minutes and then mix everything until you get a coarsely chopped mixture. Add to the mixture 1 egg, 3 tablespoons of grated Parmesan and the squeezed molllica of a sandwich soaked in water. Season with salt, add cinnamon and nutmeg and with this filling stuffed forty green Ascolane olives (the sweet variety) pitted. Once stuffed flour them, pass them in a beaten egg and then in the breadcrumbs. In a large saucepan, heat peanut oil and then fry the stuffed olives. When they are golden, dab them with absorbent paper and serve hot.

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this is how real fried olives are made with Ascoli – Italian Cuisine

this is how real fried olives are made with Ascoli


Delicious recipe from the Marche region! Who can resist in front of a dish of olives all'ascolana?

  • 500 g Olives Ascolane del Piceno Dop
  • 150 g Pork
  • 150 g Beef meat
  • 150 g Chicken meat
  • 3 pcs Eggs
  • 1 pc Onion
  • 1 pcs Carrot
  • 1 pc Celery stalk
  • Bread crumbs
  • Grated Parmesan
  • Grated Pecorino
  • nutmeg
  • Tomato concentrate
  • White wine
  • Flour
  • Lemon
  • Extra virgin olive oil
  • salt
  • pepper

For the recipe of fried olives with ascolana, fry onion, celery and carrot, chopped in 3 tablespoons of oil and brown the 3 types of meat. Add salt and pepper, add 1/2 glass of wine, add a teaspoon of concentrate and cook for about 40 minutes. Blend the meat with 2 tablespoons of breadcrumbs, 4 grana, 2 pecorino, 1 egg yolk, a pinch of nutmeg, the rind of a lemon, salt and pepper (stuffing).

Stone the olives by cutting them in a spiral around the core, then insert a filling ball in each, return the original shape to the olives, then flour them, pass them in the remaining beaten eggs and in the breadcrumbs. Fry in hot oil and serve.

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