Tag: arrives

Teresa Galeone, when the Michelin star arrives also thanks to La Cucina Italiana – Italian Cuisine

Teresa Galeone, when the Michelin star arrives also thanks to La Cucina Italiana


This story we are going to tell you is set in a landscape without screens, a post-atomic and pre-Saffron Yellow space-time, where smartphones were not yet even an intention and Zuckerberg was not yet born. Apple yes, but the most common apple in the houses was still the Golden yellow. The televisions were the ones with the cathode ray tube, a Marchesi used to go in from time to time, a Vissani sometimes, and the closest container to a cooking program was a quiz game, Lunch was served led by Corrado (Mantoni). This is the landscape in which Teresa Galeone, lady in the kitchen of Already under the arch in Carovigno (Toast), he trained his cooking muscles: without teachers, without school, without a rag of tutorials. Like many other cooks of his generation, of course, with mothers and grandmothers as the only sources of supply of culinary information. But with a difference and a hidden treasure. The difference: a talent that allowed her to write the story of a self-taught chef who ascended the Michelin empyrean. The treasure: a collection of hundreds of numbers The Italian kitchen who rescued her, raised her, accompanied her in that ascent, which shows us de The Italian kitchen for the first time and exclusively (who else?).

Osteria Already under the arch: history

Step back. Already under the arch, the cornerstone of the Apulian haute cuisine, it was born as a tavern in the intricate maze of alleys in the historic center of Carovigno. This is where the Buongiorno family laid meals for farmers in transit and refreshment for men looking for a good glass of bulk wine. It is known history. Teresa enters the scene as the wife of Theodosius, son of the hosts, and works alongside her mother-in-law and sister-in-law in the kitchen. “I had a gregarious role, but I liked cooking and I had a desire that bit me on the sides to do and do better and better. In 1987 I became a mother, Antonella was born in June. Shortly thereafter I asked Tosio to buy me La Cucina Italiana, I cradled the little girl and read. I was studying at night. "
Lady chef he holds the first issue of his treasure in his hands, the date is July 1987, the cover is worn on the edges but the copy of the "monthly of gastronomy with the kitchen in the editorial staff" founded in 1929, is perfectly preserved. “She was my teacher – Teresa, leafing through, gives voice to thoughts – my guide. I have learned everything I know from these pages. It taught me how to boning and filleting. I tried the recipes from the first to the last page. I am not exaggerating. It is certain that I made all the desserts, from the first to the last, and in the next life I swear that I will be reborn as a pastry chef. I tried all the preparations that did not require too high a food cost. In short, no caviar. The family was my guinea pig, and I went on page after page without ever stopping ”. With Tosio by his side, always. A few years later the two boys harbored the dream of going one step further. What they do is take the reins of the family sign and move it exactly to the center of the city, in Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, within the walls of the elegant eighteenth-century building that had housed the town hall, before even a school, before even before the rectory of "Pope" Vincenzo (in the countries the parish priest has the authority of cardinal). The same building that had hosted a brothel before the law. In short, a place for sinners of the flesh or the throat. The second life of the Osteria Already under the arch began in 1992. Theodosius takes a seat in the dining room, Teresa is a single woman in charge of the kitchen. Loss and freedom. No boundaries and so much fear. It is a path to look for.


Teresa's evolution

Reading, making mistakes, trying, trying again and scientifically dodging the spotlight, Teresa makes the history of the Apulian restaurant without giving it air, perhaps without even realizing it. “I found the narration of La Cucina Italiana easy, the perfect descriptions. If you followed the letter it was impossible to make a mistake. He recommended pairing with wine. And you found the cue to cook every day. I never wanted to sign up for a subscription, our trusted newsagent was right in front of our house, one step away from the restaurant, my husband never missed the appointment for a single month ". News stand Lofino, incidentally, is a resistance garrison still active at number 6 of via Adua in Carovigno. Teresa continues her story. “The school of La Cucina Italiana has helped me to emancipate me from my amateurish condition dealing with a restaurant. If I have ever perceived the evolution from those beginnings to a state of maturity in the kitchen? Frankly not. Here, among these pages I have had experience. To me, from Puglia, he taught to make risotto. And at some point I began to collect the compliments of the Milanese. The same thing happened with my braised meat, which Piedmontese people like a lot ", two small sagging pride that takes the place of shyness.

“My favorite column was the Cooking school. With monothematic lessons on horse meat, for example: I learned how to cut, how to behave with cooking. Especially fish, we in Puglia eat it whole, especially raw. I learned that fish is a world, you can offer it in slices, filleted, in a thousand ways. I remember a lunch at Don Alfonso, we ate a wonderful pigeon. It was crunchy on the outside and soft on the inside, the chest was pink. I shyly asked the chef how they got that result. Well, I waited anxiously for the number on the game of La Cucina Italiana and only then did I understand all the background of that dish, and I made one of my own, the Pigeon thigh and currant breast. We had it on paper for a long time, it was very successful. "

Teresa Buongiorno continues to churn out successful dishes and has baked many. The basic recipes learned at his personal school, he interpreted them with the raw materials of which Puglia is a generous land. Mediterranean cuisine with thoughtful additions of creativity, such as his Burrata in kataifi pasta, capocollo of Martina Franca, immature tomato cream and dehydrated olives, the enveloping and super-tasty Fusilli with white lamb ragout on ricotta cream, the whole Quail truffled with mashed seasonal potatoes and mixed salad, evidence of a round, comfortable cuisine, performed with an elegant hand. Above all capable of keeping up, impervious to fashions, identity and innervated by its clear recognition and also therefore evergreen. Like the girl in the kitchen with black black eyes who light up while leafing through the pages you can't live: "Look here – she smiles – all stuck, between cooking vapors and sugar". "The kids of today make me a little envious. They have millions of images to draw on every day, every moment. The kitchen on the other side of the world arrives on the screen in their pockets or perpetually by the hands, and they can reproduce anything they want. I didn't have this chance. " The challenge is between paper and post, between pixel snapshots and newspaper libraries.

It is a moment. Teresa turns her gaze back to her neat collection of La Cucina Italiana not in exit order, but for months. It's theobsession with seasonality which dictates the line in the kitchen and in the archive, so as to draw inspiration from fishing in the right period. But there is a precious number above all, the year 2005, the month of July. “They contacted us inviting us to the editorial office in Milan. A dream that came true, and a deadly anxiety that choked me. Tosio and I left from Puglia with all the ingredients that otherwise we could not have found. We brought durum wheat flour for the fresh pasta, the soaked chickpeas did a thousand kilometers with us, the ice cream for the zuccotto. A firm. Arriving at our destination, we spent a memorable day, preparing everything from the appetizer to the dessert for the photo shoot. We were greeted by the director of the time, Paola Ricas, a refined, elegant, helpful and welcoming woman ". Two pages full of words and images, and a portrait of Teresa with the smile of the great occasions for the column "They will be famous". Prophetic. Like the magazine that has just turned 90 raising generations of cooks and cooks. Under the roof of your home or under a starry sky.

London, the Prosecco vending machine arrives – Italian Cuisine

London, the Prosecco vending machine arrives


Until recently, there was an ATM from a bank branch in its place. Then Vagabond Wines, a chain of London wine bars, had the idea of ​​replacing it

aPM, automatic prosecco machine. It looks like an ATM, but actually that machine installed in Glouchester Street not far from Victoria Station, in London, it is a wine vending machine (who knows if it really is prosecco). He talked about this machine for the first time Forbes, who recalled that, until recently, there was actually the ATM of a bank branch in its place.

Then the Vagabond Wines, a chain of London wine shops, present with eight stores throughout the city, had the idea of ​​replacing it with the AMP which, he assures with its "will become very popular, come and visit us!".

On social networks, Vagabond Wines has launched a video showing how it works: only one glass is dispensed at a time, to "transmit a signal of moderation in consumption, Even if it is still a vending machine.

Londoners probably liked this initiative, but the president of Prosecco Consortium Doc Stefano Zanette is very upset. "It is obviously a question of consumer fraud English, as well as serious damage to the image for our denomination ", he explained to" laRepubblica ". "The first report to the English authorities, made by our offices, dates back to the middle of last week", that is when the consortium received news of this opening. The dispute started immediately from Treviso, regarding "theillegitimate reference to the denomination Prosecco appeared on the London distributor. On this occasion, the Consortium reiterates that, net of what happened in the United Kingdom, will act in all locations against anyone, in Italy and abroad, will continue to administer draft wine by selling it as prosecco, which is not allowed in any way from the current disciplinary .

Renato Bosco's contemporary pizza arrives in Piazza Duomo in Milan – Italian Cuisine


From the collaboration between the famous “pizzaricercatore” and the Autogrill Group, Saporé Milano is born, the new address of the highest quality pizza set in the Duomo Market in the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II

The expressions "Crunch", "DoppioCrunch", "Mozzarella di Pane" and "PastaMadreViva" are preparing to echo again and again in the deepest and most prestigious heart of Milan. The Mercato del Duomo, the Milanese flagship store of Autogrill Group set in the sumptuous setting of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, it is officially ready to give its personal welcome to Flavor, The catering concept devised by the chef and "pizza maker" from Verona Renato Bosco. Where the pizza – the good one, the digestible one, the most exquisitely contemporary one – will be the absolute protagonist.

That's right. The creations of Bosco, which started in 2017 a fruitful collaboration with Autogrill based on its immense experience in the sector, are preparing to conquer the central area of ​​Piazza Duomo, in Milan, with a very precise password chosen as the yummy cry of battle: "innovation". A goal that the famous Veronese pizza maker has been pursuing for years through a rich process of experimentation on doughs and leavened products, alongside research on PastaMadreViva to that of the best cooking and flour. And completing it all with a meticulous selection of ingredients for the filling, often combined together in a completely unpredictable way.

The revolutionary proposals born within the walls of the first restaurant inaugurated by Renato Bosco, the Saporè – precisely – of San Martino Buon Albergo in the province of Verona, therefore also arrive on the second floor of the Duomo Market of Autogrill. All this, with a decisive remark on the fundamental characteristics of the concept: passion for food, customer focus and maximum care for the design of the room. The Milanese opening is configured as a first, fundamental step in view of future openings planned for 2020 in various Italian locations.

Yeah, but concretely what can you taste in this new Saporé space in the shade – is it really the case to say it – of the Madonnina? Pizza, obviously. But not just any pizza. The peculiarities of Bosco's proposal remain first and foremost healthiness and taste, starting from a mixture low in fats and salt that is at the same time greedy, genuine and digestible.

For the rest, Saporè Milano will offer its customers all the most famous creations of the Veronese pizzaricercatore: la Crunch and the DoppioCrunch, characterized by a proverbial crunchiness; there Bread mozzarella, an extremely soft dough, where the encounter with the East led to deeper steam cooking; and the Classic Round Pizza, with a voluminous cornice, made with PastaMadreViva and less refined flours. To complete the offer, the Pane – also in this case made with PastaMadreViva – and a series of dishes designed specifically for the lunch break. To be sublimated with desserts, leavened desserts, brioches or biscuits, all rigorously prepared to perfection.

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