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Il Nonno is a place with over a century of history, open since 1901. Since then it has remained in the hearts of entire generations of Bolognese, and not only, for its sincere, typical, abundant and affordable cuisine. It was the place where we went in the summer on a Vespa (as in the Lunapop song), to spend carefree evenings, in the cool of the garden, eating “traditional reinforced snack”: the cutting board with crescent, tigelle, cured meats, squacquerone and pickles. In combination, strictly Pignoletto from the Bolognese hills.
Via di Casaglia 62, Bologna
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Amedeo
Amedeo is another historic tavern in Bologna, under the arcades of via Saragozza, a stone’s throw from the Faculty of Engineering. It was one of the places for special occasions: here we celebrated the graduations of most of my engineer friends. It is also in memory of those beautiful parties that I often return when I am in Bologna. I order promptly raviolone and Bolognese cutletwhich they prepare traditionally covered with ham and parmesan.
Via Saragozza, 88
www.trattoriaamedeo.it
Osteria dell’Orsa
Every time I return to Bologna, at 12 sharp (and no later) I get in line on Via Mentana and wait for my table at Osteria dell’Orsa, another pillar of Bolognese gastronomy. It was founded in the 1970s by hosting punk concerts and today it is considered one of the best places in the historic center to eat real Bolognese cuisine at affordable prices. And that’s not the only reason why every day – summer and winter – it is stormed by Bolognese people, students and tourists: the food is excellent. For me it was a prize: the restaurant you went to after passing an exam with a good grade. Every time I ordered tagliatelle, the same ones my son loves so much now. We arrive and he says: «Let’s go to the Bear. You always have to please him.
Via Mentana
www.osteriadellorsa.com
From Vito
Francesco Guccini sang about Vito as “the out-of-town tavern” and together with him, many other Bolognese artists frequented it – and frequent it, from Gianni Morandi to Lucio Dalla, and then intellectuals who sit next to workers and students every day. A place of food and culture, where we talk about art, politics, the future and in the meantime we eat very well and a lot, in a friendly atmosphere that is unique even for a welcoming city like Bologna. Da Vito is right near my first house, in the popular neighborhood of Cirenaica, near Porta San Donato. We went there for the most fun tables: we ate crescentine, mortadella, gramigna and pork shank (a specialty), the wine flowed freely. Today it is still like this, even if one pillar is missing from Vito: Paolo Pagani, son of the founder Vito. He passed away two years ago, a loss for everyone.
trattoriadavito.it
Checkmate at the Gardens
The first fine dining restaurant that remained in my heart: Scaccomatto, even according to the most severe food critics, is one of those that are worth the trip to Bologna to try a cuisine different from the typical one. Thanks to Mario Ferrara, a chef of Lucanian origins who brought a little-known cuisine to the city, and not only to the people of Bologna. For the summer, it has moved from the arcades of the center just outside, to a former seventeenth-century convent with a wonderful garden. An even more elegant meeting place, to taste the recipes of Mario, a great master who is good at everything: meat, fish and vegetable dishes featuring all the typical products of Basilicata. He offers them in a 5-course tasting menu, different every week and all based on seasonal ingredients. For wines, ask the sommelier: last time I tasted a natural Gewürztraminer that remained in my heart.
Via della Braina, 9,
restaurantscaccomatto.com
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