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L'Italie à table, the Italian gastronomic excellence show in Nice – Italian Cuisine

L'Italie à table, the Italian gastronomic excellence show in Nice

Truffles, oil, wine, pasta, desserts and much more along the Promenade des Anglais in Nice where the Italian food and wine excellences conquer the French.

Cured meats, cheeses, desserts, pasta and even wine: the list of quality products is long, the result of Italian gastronomic excellence, which could be tasted in Nice from last June 7th until 11th along the beautiful Promenades Des Anglais, scope of the Salone L''Italie à Table, an appointment under the European program Sistina, now in its 15th edition, in which small artisans have made tourists, passing customers and French catering professionals taste their products. A way to promote across the border niche productions of the highest level that could intercept the demand not only of tourists but above all of those who work with food every day, as chefs, owners of premises, wholesalers. "The idea came about 16 years ago," he explains Michele Palmieri, a young person in charge of the Italian Chamber of Commerce in Nice – when they were looking for a way to introduce some typical excellences of Piedmont and Liguria, the two regions closest to France, to the French market. It began with only references from the provinces of Cuneo, Imperia, Veneto and Emilia, to arrive at today where there are over forty exhibitors, they come from all over Italy and most of them have confirmed their participation for years ". A won bet therefore.

Cheeses, honey, oil and biscuits. All the Made in Italy excellences

Walking through the stands is like finding corners of Italy where accents mix with local products. Among the many exhibitors, the company Bonifazi, was one of the first to believe in the project of L''Italie à Table. It produces extra virgin olive oil from the early 1900s in the Umbrian countryside. The olives are the local ones, leccino, moraiolo and frantoio, the production remained artisanal, although over the years the numbers of the bottles produced have grown. Giuseppe Veglio produces his own Tuma d 'Fe on the hills of the high Langa, with milk produced by its 120 sheep that graze freely in the meadows. He has been coming to Nice for years. The cheese is made only from April to November, when the milk is rich in all the aromas and aromas of the field herbs. Once heated to 37 ° the sheep's rennet is added and then the toma remains to rest for two days. It is "caressed" with a pinch of light blue Sicilian salt, left to rest for another week and then it is ready to be tasted. At their first salon they are the owners of the Perfumed Experience Laboratory by Riolo Terme, a shop where ancient grains mix with seeds and spices to create recipes that have been handed down from generation to generation biscuits that smell of lavender, turmeric and hazelnuts, in which every bite is like a return to childhood.

Meeting with French cuisine

These benches at the L’Italie à Table salon are an opportunity to get to know those who really are behind the products they often use, without knowing their history. This is why Sebastien Perinetti, manager of the restaurant "Canon" in the center of Nice every year this fair is not lost for anything in the world. “I have always used many Italian, Ligurian and Piedmontese specialties above all – he tells us when we meet him – starting with oil, cheeses, polenta, which in the restaurant I propose combined with lamb and white beans from Pigna, another Italian specialty , a Slow Food presidium cultivated in the province of Imperia ”. And then the natural wines of Fornovo and the trombetta courgettes, typical Ligurian. In his restaurant the menu changes twice a day, "because – he explains – it depends on what the suppliers bring me: the fisherman, for example, arrives at 13. I know what I can offer my guests at that time". Attention to the highest quality products also for the restaurant L'atelier, by Stephane Chenneveau, who specialized in porridge, which in France they call Socca. He proposes it as a base on which he then serves fish, meat, vegetables and cheeses, and accompanies it with a good glass of wine (he has over 600 references between biodynamic and natural), often Italian. He also does not miss the L’Italie à Table show because, as he tells us, “we French are like you Italians, attentive to detail, always discovering new excellence to offer to our guests. And this is the right place to stay ”.

I tasted the Seupa à la Vapelenentse – Italian Cuisine

La Seupa

Peasant recipe, handed down by grandmothers and great-grandmothers. In a few ingredients the story of a very strong identity

I speak of the Valpellinese soup, or even Valdostana soup, more just to call it with its sweet name in patois, the fascinating local ancient language; many names, some variations, but the substance is always the same, a soup of substance, handed down from the grandmothers, transcribed in the notebooks of recipes that are held at home, tells in a few ingredients the history of a region that has been certified by municipal certification De.CO that recognizes its typicality and respect for tradition.
I tasted the seupa, not in Valpelline where it was born and where it is celebrated every year at the festival for the patronal feast of San Pantaleone, but at Morgex, a few km from Courmayeur, in the cozy home of the Bovard family.

Before telling you this recipe two words are to be spent for Diego Bovard: agronomist, born and raised in Valle d'Aosta, an indefinable love for the territory, that valdôtain, small but extremely rich in products, traditions, nature, and an energy that takes power from the earth and turns into a story and takes you into a small world of excellence. The best cheeses, the best flours, the best cured meats, the best people behind all this. Diego Bovard knows everyone and every day he invents new ways to make agriculture sustainable, to enhance the products of the valleys, and to get to the heart – or maybe belly! – of people.

There soupa instead?

Her wife cooked it and both my heart and my tummy are conquered.
Peasant dish, very few ingredients, stale bread, fontina (DOP course), broth. Some changes from home to home. The broth in the tradition would be cabbage, some use that of meat, the layers of white bread and fontina, someone uses black bread, wholemeal, rye, and cabbage leaves, a pinch of cinnamon … The final touch, butter melted, a lot of melted butter.
Here is the recipe

La Seupa
La Seupa

Ingredients for the soupa à la Vapelenentse

500 g of Savoy cabbage
300 g of fontina Valdostana
Stale rye bread (or white bread)
1 l of beef broth (or cabbage)
100 g of butter


Put to heat the meat broth you have already prepared (the recipe, if you want it, is here). Otherwise prepare a broth only with the most external leaves of the Savoy cabbage.
Meanwhile clean the cabbage removing the torzolo and leafing through it gently.
Cut the stale bread into slices of one centimeter and lay it on the bottom of a buttered ground, placing them close together so as not to leave any space.
At this point alternate a layer of bread, one of cabbage leaves and one of fontina. The last layer must be fontina.
Wet everything with the stock and place in the oven at 200 ° -220 ° until a nice golden crust has formed.
Serve the soup covered with melted butter and … Bon Appètit!

The gateau à la broche, the spit cake – Italian Cuisine

The gateau à la broche is a rare spiced conical cake that can be found in some mountainous areas of eastern France

The gateau à la broche, also said spit cake or Koeken, is a truly unique cake of its kind; has one characteristic conical shape and is cooked on the spit, with a long and complex preparation process that involves a gradual addition of different layers.

Widespread in various parts of Eastern Europe, especially in mountain areas and in the French regions Hautes-Pyrénées and Aveyron, its particular recipe and its rarity, attested by Slow Food, make it a sought-after dessert, often linked to fascinating local traditions, handed down from generation to generation and prepared mostly for special celebrations and holidays. Part of the charm of the gateau à la broche also lies in the uncertain origins and legends narrated over the years, which increase the myth.

Recipe and preparation-ritual of the gateau à la broche

The appearance of this dessert is as fascinating as its preparation. The ingredients of the basic recipe of the cake are sugar, butter, flour and eggs, while the additional and optional ones, to flavor it, may include lemon, orange blossom and even rum. Once the mold is prepared, that is a wooden cone attached to a spit that spins evenly, the first layer of dough is poured, to which the next seven or eight will gradually be added.

Preparation of the gâteau à la broche.

After browning the last layer, the cake must be removed from the fire and removed from the conical mold. Once cooked, the gateau à la broche is rather soft, with a golden and rough surface and an intense yellow color and can be stored for several days. Given the effort and time that this procedure requires, it is not surprising to find that the average dimensions are quite abundant: in general, the gateau à la broche is 20 to 80 cm tall and weighs between 150 g and 4 kg. The most fascinating aspect of this preparation is however the social aspect; in many areas and in many villages in Europe, and in particular in France, in the Massif Central and in the Hautes-Pyrénées, the tradition of gateau à la broche is alive and well and is handed down over time as an integral part of popular culture.
For example, in Arreau, in the Hautes-Pyrénées, for over twenty years a brotherhood has been organizing the spit-roasting of the cake every summer, in July, while in Morlaàs, about 90 km to the west, the Salon du Vin et de la Gastronomie, a traditional food and wine fair, which also includes the gateau à la broche as a gastronomic appointment, but also as a celebratory moment of community and social gathering.

History and diffusion in Europe of spit cake

The origin of the spit cake is much discussed. Self tradition attributes the creation of spit-roasted cake to the master pastry chef of the Prussian king in 1790 in SalzwedelIt is however certain that this specialty was born in Central Europe, where it still exists under various names including Kurtoskalacs (Hungary), baumkuchen (Germany). According to legend, when Napoleon's soldiers withdrew from their invasion of Russia in 1812, they brought it back to France with them. In France, a country where the rare gateau à la broche is more present, the recipe has since been transmitted orally.
Many European variants of the gateau à la broche, from the festive cake consumed alone or accompanied by jam or honey in Germany, to the English cake of medieval origin with figs, dates and spices, to recipes that include a covering of sugar or chocolate. One last curiosity: the spit cake has become popular even in Japan, thanks to the German confectioner Karl Joseph Wilhelm Juchheim who introduced it in 1919.

Cooking of the gâteau à la broche

Photo: Rouge's Gâteau à la broche_Wikipedia Commons_Varaine.jpg
Photo: Gâteau à la broche preparation_Wikipedia Commons_Roland Darré.jpg
Photo: Gâteau à la broche cotto spiedo_Wikipedia Commons_Darreenvt.jpg

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