Do not call them, trivially, chestnuts, because i brown I'm something more. Because if it is true that these two fruits are "relatives", coming from two different varieties of the European chestnut (Castanea sativa Mill.), and then yes look alikeHowever, it is equally true that the differences are many, and they are seen, and felt. The chestnuts they are poor relatives, the browns are those wealthy because they are more fine, more sought after, more appreciated and, paradoxically, even more rare. A little 'because the productions are limited, a little bit because brown is delicate and bad weather conditions are enough to ruin a whole collected.
The curvy version of chestnuts
Big and round as they are, at a glance the browns look like some super-chestnuts. These are two important characteristics, because here the dimension It is decisive for quality and value: in a hedgehog chestnut they can find up to seven fruits, while in one curly of brown they are kept at the maximum three. Observing them better, the browns are also distinguished by the peel striped, with shades a bit 'clearer than the chestnuts. And when you open them it turns out that the film that covers the fruit and separates it from the peel it is much smoother and more homogeneous than that of chestnuts. It is much easier to to remove. With chestnuts they share the same characteristics nutritional and the sweet and delicate flavor, but otherwise i brown but they have an extra gear. Already in 1939 there was a Regio decree that put the black on white distinction. If the chestnuts the fruits of trees are common "Wild", the browns are the product of trees which have been modified by man (like many other species vegetable) selecting the best specimens, with prunings and grafts, until obtaining cultivars of great quality. In short i brown they are the fruit of wisdom agricultural man.
The lands of the chestnuts
This difference between trees of chestnuts and marroni explains why the geography of these two fruits does not coincide. The chestnut it was taken by the Romans in Asia Minor and cultivated in all the lands of the empire, so massif, because it gave a precious, hard and resistant wood. In origin therefore, the alimentary aspect of the chestnut tree was secondary. Instead, it became central in the Middle Ages, when its fruits, desserts and nutrients, became an important component of nutrition popular, so much to be called "the bread of the poor" or "cereals that grow on trees", Because in addition to being roasted or boiled if it was one flour very nutritious. In Italy i chestnut stretch out from the slopes of the Alps up to the mountains of Calabria e Sicily, where, in the park ofEtna, a sample is preserved millenary, considered the oldest and largest tree ofEurope. Instead the browns are less widespread. The region where they produce more is the Campania, but also Tuscany (and the area of the Tuscan-Emilian Apennines), the Piedmont and Veneto.
bread, pasta and polenta, and we cook the typical chestnut soup. It grows in the Bolognese the Brown of Castel del Rio Igp, very fragrant and pulpy, and very easy to peel, which comes in many traditional culinary preparations, including the pheasant, tagliolini, fritters, castagnaccio and meringues. Typical browns boiled, served with moscato or passito wines or with new wine. Tuscany has two types protected by the EU. The Brown of Caprese Michelangelo Dop it grows in part of the province of Arezzo and is characterized by the aroma that recalls almond and vanilla. Excellent cooked roasted, glazed, or peeled and boiled, it is used in many recipes such as pancakes and castagnaccio. Instead the Mugello brown Igp, which comes from a particular variety of chestnut, the Florentine brown, and is characterized by medium-large size and white pulp and crisp, pleasantly sugary. Going down in the province of Salerno it turns out the Roccadaspide brown Igp, very large and distinctly sweet, which is consumed fresh, in the form of flour with which you make pasta dishes and desserts, as roast chestnut or as a side dish for game seconds. It is also in great demand from the confectionery industry to achieve Marron glace, jams, chestnuts with rhum and puree.
How to cook them
October and November are the season some chestnuts and there's nothing better than going to discover them in the territories where are born. The occasion is given by the many parties and festivals dedicated to these autumn products. And if you come back from one of these events with a nice bag of browns, what to do with it? There is nothing to be spoiled for choice. They are delicious roasted or boiled, but can also be used as ingredient in many recipes, from appetizers to desserts. In addition, boiled or roasted, you can use them as a side dish game, with the arista or with the chicken roast. Where the browns give the best of themselves is in the dessert, so much so that they are called "the diamond of the confectionery", where they are the protagonists of many delicious recipes and refined, like the marron glacés, the Mont Blanc is the browns in syrup, and where they come in as ingredients in seasonal semifreddi (excellent pairing with the cream of khaki).
Marrons glacé: attention to those "of series B"
THE marrons glacés they were created in the 18th century and served first in the banquets of the noblemen, soon becoming a pride of the confectionery Italian. For example, in "Cookbook" eighteenth-century of the note and historical Romanengo pastry of Genoa, we find two recipes for candying chestnuts. The candying was a pride of the Genoese patrician families who could to exhibit in their banquets winter wonder of the fruit outside season. Today i marrons glacés they are a delight for everyone. But they remain a product finebecause browns are expensive and require a long and delicate processing. For this reason, it is better to be wary of the marrons glacés to low cost: obtained with a purely production industrial and starting from the cheapest ones chestnuts, they recognize each other because they are a lot tough to the touch and because they are full of sugar, added for increase the weight.
Manuela Soressi
October 2018
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