What is the trick to recognize an excellent Barbera? Consider the versatility on the table and measure how long the bottle ends
If one began to dedicate statues to the most deserving Italian winemakers, Michele Chiarlo would certainly have one. His talent – for quality productions and the ability to sell Piedmontese wines in the world, when no one knew them yet – inherited it from his father Pietro, who was, in 1952, among the promoters of the birth of the social cellar of Calamandrana and that was awarded in 1978 with the Grand Medal of Cangrande by the Verona Trade Fair Authority "for having made a significant contribution to the development of viticulture and the enhancement of Italian oenology".
There are many teachings that the father leaves to his son, as when he says to him "Use patience and make sacrifices, but buy only vineyards in large locations". Michele also remembers his father's reaction when he began to thin out the grapes (that is, to throw some of the grapes on the ground) in the Barolo vineyards in 1985: "But he lived to convince himself of the great qualitative results that derived from my choice". Today, after about sixty vintages, Michele is joined by his sons Stefano and Alberto, who succeeded in transmitting the same passion and great skills needed to produce (and sell) wines appreciated all over the world.
Indeed, more than appreciated, since the Nice Cipressi 2015 was declared best wine in the world from the American magazine Wine Enthusiast. The grapes are born in the La Court estate in Castelnuovo Calcea, purchased by Michele Chiarlo, in 1995, after long years of "courtship". To make an already excellent place for viticulture even more special, the Chiarlo family has created Footprints on La Court, a artistic park en plein air, accessible to all, which houses the works of some artists of the caliber of Emanuele Luzzati and Ugo Nespolo.
But how is a good Barbera made? It must be born in a very suitable area and obtain the Docg for Nice in 2014 it is certainly a guarantee in this regard. And then it must be fruity and juicy, vibrant to the taste, for the acidity that sustains the body, and easy to drink, indeed very easy, but never banal. The Nizza Cipressi 2016, and also that of the 2017 vintage (tasted in preview and on sale from September), has all these features. The aromas, especially cherry, raspberry and something sweet tobacco, are elegant and fresh; the same characteristics can be found on tasting, along with a savory and round finish, which invites the next sip.
Why now: it is a red of great versatility on the table and, playing with the service temperatures, it can accompany both structured and lighter dishes: a perfect choice in this period of uncertain climate.
As did: the wine is made in steel, with a maceration on the skins for 10-12 days; the wine ages for 12 months in large barrels and, therefore, for 6 months in the bottle.
To combine with: white meats, medium-aged cheeses, first courses with meat sauce, stuffed pasta, stewed fish.
Serve it at: 16 ° C
Price: 16 euros.
www.michelechiarlo.it
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