The seven taverns in Perugia that (not) make only Testo – Italian Cuisine

The seven taverns in Perugia that (not) make only Testo

The Umbrian capital has never been so appreciated by foreigners as it is today. But it is not only beautiful: it allows many delicious stops in often suggestive taverns, where you can enjoy typical dishes. Starting from the cake to the text, which never fails …

Never had any doubts about the beauty of Umbria. But when they start hammering the foreign media, we obviously missed something. "The Telegraph", One of the oldest newspapers in the world, recently made a hymn to the greenest region of Italy with a very clear statement:"Why Umbria should be the first Italian destination to visit after the lockdowns. We quote without filters: "Twenty years ago much of Umbria was unknown to everyone, except for the most ardent Italophiles. A small landlocked region, it has been overshadowed by its larger neighbor, Tuscany. But Umbria has always had the ingredients to be popular. The same wonderful pastoral landscapes, some spectacular mountains; a dozen hill towns filled with superb art and architecture, countless sleepy and charming villages. And then extraordinary food and wine . It closes with a hymn to the cities of art and to Perugia, "big and crowded.

The City of Chocolate

With all due respect for the other capital Terni and the string of places that many Italians know with the spring trip to middle school or high school (Assisi, Spoleto, Todi …), we too have a soft spot for Perugia: one of those small, truly glocal capitals well before the term was born. Umbrian to the core and international not only thanks to tourism but to the University for Foreigners, which is about to celebrate its centenary from birth. Artisan at heart, but with industries of excellence, starting with the confectionery one. Not surprisingly, the City of Chocolate for the historical weight of Perugina and an event like Eurochocolate which this year should be held from 16 to 25 October. But, above all, it is a place with a harmonious medieval aspect with a historic center that is nice to walk through for a long time, without haste and stopping to look.

The starred are in the province

This ancient essence, respectful of the territory without being closed, but if anything engaging, means that Perugia is not a starred city. After all, in Umbria there are two: the very famous Vissani House in Baschi (Terni) e Vespasian in Norcia, home of the best cured meats in Central Italy and 100 kilometers from the chief town. Perugia is a village of taverns. Apart from the original The bad habit – who follows the territory and at the same time proposes his idea of ​​sushi – and a couple of good bistros (The Workshop is Anonymous society), the scene is all for the typicality told in often suggestive places like those of our very personal selection. Suggestions on the menu: homemade pasta such as umbricelli or ragu, meats of all kinds (from palombacci to perugina to lamb in a thousand recipes), dishes with black or white truffles depending on the season. And then a sea of ​​cake at the Testo, the alternative to bread: water, flour, baking soda and salt. It is cooked on a round cast iron plate called text, heir of the testum of the ancient Romans, or the brick tile where the focaccias were prepared. With cured meats (from Norcia, of course), cheeses, vegetables and meats it is the best.


One of the most elegant taverns in Central Italy, surrounded by a period residence. But don't expect exercises in style: here traditional recipes are reworked with class and an authorial touch, such as taglierini with white lamb ragu, lamb offal with cake al testo, stewed veal with radicchio and shallots.

I Birbi Osteria

In the historic center, a place of taste with exposed walls and vaults that immediately conquers. The Ciabattini family loves to lighten Umbrian dishes; and it does very well. Whether they are pici with black truffle or cod cooked in ashes. Good selection of desserts and cellar that invites you to spend well.

Another world

Convivial atmosphere and great hospitality in this local center that proudly defends the local cuisine. The house appetizer with cold cuts, Torta al testo and croutons is not to be missed. Then tagliatelle alla perugina or with truffles, carré of cinta and the proposals based on lamb, zabaglione foam.

At Eating Well

The sign reflects the experience, favored by a welcoming environment and housed in a fourteenth-century building. Almost all the raw materials are Umbrian and organic, the portions are abundant. A good route consists of the house appetizer, a taste of umbricelli and grilled meat. Competitive wine list.

Luce Restaurant

Two young chef-patrons with the right hand to interpret Umbrian cuisine at 360 °, without prejudices, but relying on great raw materials. In this way, you can taste a smoked tench tortello such as dark lamb with Sagrantino and agretti passito. Absolute creativity in desserts. The restaurant has a contemporary taste.


He did not conquer the Slow Food Chiocciolina by chance: there is great love for local products and the dishes are treated in detail, whether they are the simple fried silversides of Trasimeno or the refined baked pigeon. And the former conquer. The wine list is extensive and refined, with valid proposals also by the glass

Civic 25

Small and welcoming, two rooms and an open kitchen, a large quantity of bottles of (good) wine. Young people especially like this modern tavern which combines traditional classics with some innovative proposals, but always of an Italian style, such as pork livers with orange or meatballs in various recipes.

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