The new trend is the sweet from Verona, a real test of pastry (other than panettone). Here are all the pandori craft to scream
In all Italian homes at Christmas you buy at least two things, whether you live in Bolzano or Palermo: panettone and pandoro. But panettone craft, rankings, awards, disciplinary talk about it too. Pandoro, almost nothing until last year.
In 2019 something is moving and more and more pastry shops and bakers are launching into the new trendy dessert. Why this delay?
Why don't we talk about Pandoro?
If you think the reason is related to consumption you are wrong. In 2016 (Coldiretti data) the panettone won as many as 75% of the public's preferences, beating the rival, however, by measure: "only" 72% of families bought pandoro. It is clear that we are facing a media distortion.
In just a few years, the artisan panettone has become a niche product and a mass phenomenon, and the hunt for the "best panettone in Italy" is a pre-Christmas shopping craze. The patisseries that historically made panettone sold four times, chefs and improvisers set to work for their artisanal version, the variants with candied ginger, chestnut cream, rose sauce … have proliferated. 30 € per kilo, or so, and pandoro can still be bought at the supermarket.
The reason is economic
Matter of taste? Not everyone likes it. The reason is technical and economic. If the panettone is difficult to make, the pandoro also, if the panettone has rich raw materials, the pandoro is all butter and vanilla, and the good ingredients, they cost. But if panettone requires experience, Pandoro is also an economic investment that few can afford.
To make pandoro the forms of paper used for the panettone are not enough, you have to buy metal molds. And then you have to wait for them to cool down before releasing them for a new production run. Three days of preparation in all, including the hours of rest, for which space is needed.
The word Perbellini, the king of Pandoro
“Pandoro is a cross and delight for us, as I believe that in pastry making it one of the most difficult things to do, as long as it maintains the proportions of ingredients of a classic artisan Pandoro (in fact, very few artisans produce Pandoro, all throw themselves on the panettone … much simpler). Suffice it to say that flour in pandoro is only 33% of the dough and must support and bind: sugar, eggs and butter. There are so many joints between leavening times, choice of ingredients and dough times that are difficult to explain and it is even more difficult to realize it from the outside ”explains Pierluigi Perbellini of the Offelleria Pasticceria Perbellini of Bovolone, Verona. We are in the land of Pandoro and they, like many neighbors, have always produced it together with the classic Nadalin and Offella, a traditional recipe inspired by tradition.
It will be pandoro-trend
There have always been Veronese and Venetian craftsmen in the art of Pandoro, but except for a few cases, for years the tasting was disappointing. All making cash with the panettone, the pandori remained children of a lesser god or were produced externally by semi-artisan laboratories and then wrapped. But things seem to have definitely changed.
Two of the champions of Italian pastry, Vincenzo Tiri of Acerenza, province of Potenza, e Andrea Tortora, award-winning pastry chef they threw themselves into pandoro production: it means that in a few years it will be a trend.
Meanwhile, here is a selection of the best, and the appeal for the purchase of a product from Carosello, which risks disappearing.
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