Centenarian plants that give generous and intense wines, full expression of the energy of the Volcano.
At the foot of Etna in a place with surreal traits, small trees curved on themselves with the almost frayed trunk that seems to stand for a miracle, suck from the earth a rich sap that has grown bunches of Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio for over a hundred years . I'm prefillossera screws, recovered about ten years ago by Mimmo and Valeria Costanzo, husband and wife, who as often happens have put aside their old life and invented another one as winegrowers, giving shape to Palmento Costanzo, a place, before a wine, that oozes passion from every pore. "I often come here at night. Even if I'm in Catania: I take the car and sleep here, in the middle of the vineyard. I don't know if it is the presence of the volcano or the energy that this place gives off, but I come here and I'm fine, "explains Mimmo with his eyes that reveal the enthusiasm of a child.
The Palmento, how the grapes were vinified in the nineteenth century
Mimmo and Valeria bought this land ten years ago in Contrada Santo Spirito, in the hamlet of Passopisciaro, on the northern slope of Etna. Here they found the ancient millstone and with a very minute conservative restoration they brought it back to its original splendor. The grapes once came directly to the millstone from the two windows overlooking Etna and inside this building from the exposed bricks began the winemaking. Today it has returned to being a wine production area thanks to the integration with the modern technologies. Every detail has been designed to get the best from the grapes grown in the vineyards. The millstone is spread over several levels: in the highest part there is the slope, the area where the grapes are pressed and fermented. Next to it are the steel tanks, as well as an "orange" cistern, which develops vertically, divided into segments to allow separate fermentations with different temperatures. On the ground floor, the barrel cellar has been maintained with magnificent egg-shaped specimens, made of French oak, which exploit convective motions to promote natural bâtonnage. Even the modern wine cellar was built second the principles of bioarchitecture: thanks to the openings made at the top, in correspondence of the terrace overlooking the vineyards next to the millstone, the winery is lit by five cones that convey light inside, limiting the need for electricity for lighting only at the most dark of the day.
The vines, arranged as before
Nicola Centonze he is the one who takes care of these precious plants and draws elegant and generous wines. The vines, scattered over ten hectares of land furrowed by long black skies, are organically grown and are arranged with quinconce, to form a pentagon. Thus oriented the plants receive the light of the sun more hours a day, they are in greater number per hectare and they engage a sort of competition between them in the search of depth for the roots, to find the water. Once they reach the deepest layer of moisture they can remain healthy for the rest of their lives.
The wines of Palmento Costanzo
Making wine on Etna means second the volcano rhythms, align with his breath and draw life from his slopes. The wines produced on the lava soil have a organoleptic kit quite special. And capturing the authentic essence of this territory was immediately the desire of Mimmo and Valeria. Their wines, made with Catarratto, Carricante, Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio, they are the powerful and strong expression of this place and are divided into two lines, Mofete and Di Sei, in addition to the Cru Contrada Santo Spirito and the finest wine Prefillossera.
All the wines produced are an expression of the Denomination of Controlled Origin Etna and with organic certification. Mofete, the classic line, includes a red, made with 80% of Nerello Mascalese and 20% of Nerello Cappuccio, with an intense ruby red color and aromas of fresh wild herbs, roses and volcanic ash. Mofete Bianco is produced with 70% of Carricante and 30% of Catarratto and on the nose it releases aromas of yellow citrus fruit pulp, with mineral and balsamic references. In the mouth it is full, fresh and penetrating. The Rosato, produced with the first Nerello Mascalese grapes harvested in the last ten days of September, is a very pleasant wine, suitable as an aperitif or for the whole meal, with a long and lively freshness. The line "Six" represents the idea of Etna, a concept in constant evolution and characterization. It is the authentic expression of the brown volcanic earth and takes its name from the scientific classification of Etna in the world map of active volcanoes: of Sei. A paciarotto white and citrus and an intense and aromatic red are part of it, both made with the grapes of the vines that reach a century of life. The cru Contrada Santo Spirito it is made with a Nerello Mascalese (90%) and Nerello Cappuccio (10%) and is a very balanced wine, which is aged for 24 months in Ovum barrels and then in the bottle for another 12 months. Prefillossera, the top wine of the cellar, is made for 90% of Nerello Mascalese grapes and for the remaining 10% of Nerello Cappuccio. Has a intense aroma of red fruit, with balsamic nuances. In the mouth it is enveloping, with a soft tannin and a long and slightly savory finish. A wine to pair with important red meat dishes, but also perfect for a moment of solitary meditation.
Credits: Benedetto Tarantino
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