Here is the ragout of farm animal offal made by chef Diego Rossi of Trattoria Trippa in Milan. To be done at home, as it once was, or to be bought comfortably in a jar. Because even the trattorias are no longer what they used to be
Diego Rossi is the Best Chef 2020 for the Identità Golose Guide, he is today among the best known and appreciated chefs of the Italian panorama and his Trattoria, Trippa in Milan, internationally known. His cuisine is not that of tradition, but a contemporary and creative version of the cuisine of a trattoria today, made by the hand of an expert chef, with modern techniques and forgotten ingredients. The fifth quarter is its fetish raw material: tripe, liver, kidney are currently on the menu in the restaurant and among the most ordered dishes; even by those who didn't want to hear about those "things".
This recipe is just a ragout of chicken and beef offal, which is inspired by the poor cuisine of the past, genuine and concrete, still able to excite for its frankness and extreme topicality for a generation of chefs who increasingly aim at reducing waste and enhancing less noble parts of the animal. At the beginning, a childhood memory: the scent of the grandmother's ragù that came from the kitchen while Diego played in the courtyard chasing the hens in the countryside of San Giovanni Lupatoto (VR). A memory of taste etched forever in an authentic dish, and for those who taste it, they can find forgotten flavors and take a trip back in time. «This preparation is ideal for seasoning fresh pasta, imagine them with a homemade noodle. But it is fabulous as a filling for ravioli or for lasagna. To stay on a simpler version: use it to garnish croutons of bread or polentaExplains Diego.
Chicken giblets | Heart of Cattle | Tomato
A meat offal made from a few simple ingredients, those that were once the only ones available in country houses: from chicken, used in all its parts, to smaller cuts of meat, less valuable but with an extraordinary flavor. Chicken livers and durelli, with the addition of beef heart, are cooked slowly like a ragù, together with tomato sauce and aromatic herbs selected by Diego Rossi to balance the decisive flavor of the offal.
Don't call it ready sauce!
The courtyard is a story to tell that is intertwined with regional traditions and products as well as collective memories, it is a recipe that can last over time and be enjoyed even far from the places of origin. The courtyard is in fact one of the many proposals of Bonverre, a range of exclusive recipes created by great local interpreters and enclosed in precious glass jars (don't call them sauces!). Bonverre uses the ancient method of the pot cooking for preserve its flavors for a long time and in an optimal way, without adding artificial preservatives or additives. As well as guaranteeing a minimum shelf life of 2 years, glass represents a choice of sustainability, as it can be reused after consumption or easily recycled. Ready to be heated, or prepared at home with Diego Rossi's recipe.
Recipe
Ingredients for 4 people
8 chicken durelli
8 chicken livers
100 gr of bovine heart
½ carrot
½ stick of celery
1 large onion
garlic
200 gr of tomato sauce
1 sprig of chopped rosemary
2-3 sage leaves
2 bay leaves
White wine
extra virgin olive oil
Parmigiano
pepper
salt
Method
Start preparing the ragù by removing the inner skin of the durelli and washing them well. Boil them in flavored water with a pinch of salt and a bay leaf for about an hour. Once cooked, drain and set aside.
In the meantime, chop the vegetables, garlic and aromatic herbs and put everything to fry with oil in a saucepan. Add the diced durelli, sprinkle with white wine and let it reduce. Pour the tomato sauce, salt and cook for 20 minutes.
Add the beef heart cut into cubes and cook for 10 minutes. Then add the diced livers to the ragù, keeping the thickness applied to the other offal, and cook for another 5 minutes. Season with salt and complete with a sprinkling of pepper and parmesan.
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