From Torta Setteveli, which is a trademark registered to Cerea cannoncini – to a legendary gluten-free cake. Here are the desserts of pastry chefs and chefs who have made and are making history
There are classic desserts whose inventor is lost in the mists of time or in legend, there are sweets that bear the name and surname of an inventor, and whose history is perfectly known. And then there are traditional desserts but without the work of an individual, they would have gone missing or forgotten. There are also controversial cases, such as those of the Torta Setteveli, that Sicilians are convinced are their regional recipe, and that instead it is owned by a trio of champions.
Here in this review, the cakes and desserts that are making the history of Italian pastry, or that continue to do so despite centuries of seniority.
The symbol of the pastry chef Sal de Riso and the Amalfi Coast. It is made of sponge cake with custard cream with lemon juice and covered with a sauce perfumed with skins of "lemons Costa di Amalfi IGP". He did not invent it, he attributes the paternity to Carmine Marzuillo, a Sorrentine pastry chef who gave it its name in 1978. The traditional recipe, if you can call it such a recent recipe, is made with puff-type pasta, filled with a cream with lemon and garnished with the same cream and whipped cream.
Where: Pastry Sal De Riso, Minori SA
Sette Veli Cake
The Setteveli cake has a name and three surnames, those of three pastry chefs: Luigi Biasetto from Padua, Cristian Beduschi from Pieve and Gianluca Mannori from Prato. Together they made up the Italian team that won the Lyon Pastry World Cup in 1997 with this dessert. Coconut mousse, praline hazelnut Bavarian, seven layers of crunchy chocolate (veils), chocolate savoy and gianduia with cereals . The cake is a registered trademark "Setteveli" although it is very popular throughout Italy.
Where: In Tai Pieve di Cadore, from Beduschi, and in the two pastry shops of Biasetto and Mannori.
Torta Barozzi is a registered trademark, its recipe is secret, and you can buy it at the Gollini patisserie where it has been handed down from generation to generation since 1907, when the cake was invented and named after the 16th century architect Jacopo Barozzi.
Where: Pasticceria Gollini, Vignola MO
Three chocolate mousse
Ernst Knamm was the pastry chef of Gualtiero Marchesi, but later winner of Italian and international awards for chocolate, ice cream and pastry. Its historical and best-selling recipe is the Tris: marquise base, selection of 3 chocolates, white, gatte, fondant, cream, yolk, gianduja chocolate curls.
Where: Knamm Pastry, Milan
They have all eaten them, from heads of state like Obama to customers of the Da Vittorio restaurant, which at the end of the meal, no matter how lucrant it was, you can see the small pastry shop coming to the table. Small is a euphemism, is legendary, and can not miss the cream cannoncini, stuffed at the time. What are they special about? All or nothing, which is the secret of a three-star Michelin like this.
Where: Da Vittorio, Brusaporto BG
Peaches from Prato
Peaches from Prato have become a typical dessert, thanks to Paolo Sacchetti (the best pastry chef in Italy in 2012) of Florentine origin. He made them and did them so well that everyone in the city has now started to cook them again. But his are legendary, very fine, with the right amount of cream and alchermes to wet the two half balls of brioche dough. They attract tourists to the city, and there will be a reason!
Where: Pasticceria Nuovo Mondo, Prato
Panettone with 3 mixtures
Iginio Massari is the inventor of modern Italian pastry. Before becoming a media face, he is the master of many of the pastry chefs currently in circulation, and in 1985 he invented the first Italian confectionery championship, founder of the Academy of Italian Master Confectioners (AMPI) and today a recognized guru of the world of leavened products. His panettone with 3 doughs is taller and softer than the traditional panettone. But it goes like hot cakes and you can book it from September for Christmas.
Where: Pastry Veneto, Brescia
a thousand leaves
Giancarlo Perbellini has two Michelin stars and a galaxy of clubs between Verona (and a bistro in Milan). He is a cook, but his dessert millefeuille is a true classic. It is served at the plate, round, crumbly and filled with foam of cream. "A sharp blow from a fork, because it is as light as air" .: with this recommendation to the guests, the chef Giancarlo announces his inevitable milestone for the guests of Casa Perbellini.
Where: Casa Perbellini, Verona + Locanda Perbellini, Milan
A cake created at the end of the nineteenth century, hence its name, from the famous pastry chef of Ivrea Ottavio Bertinotti, founder of the pastry shop that today bears the name of Balla. Already the inventor of the cake decided to protect his creation with a patented brand and the recipe remained ever secret from then. The secret was also maintained by the family of Umberto Balla who, in 1972, after about seventy years after its creation, took over the laboratory and the patent. The cake is formed by a base of two cocoa disks of a paste similar to sponge cake, then filled with a delicate chocolate cream and decorated with a sprinkling of icing sugar. The discs are stuffed only at the time of order, just to ensure maximum freshness.
Where: Pasticceria Balla, Ivrea TO
The dessert of the first day of vacation, a wish for the days of summer for the students of many schools has already arrived. It was created by Gino Fabbri, a national pastry chef, there is no breakfast guru. In his long career he won the prize for the "Cake of the Jubilee of 2000", thanks to which he was able to meet Pope John Paul II, while in 2015 he led the Italian team to victory at the Coupe du Monde de la Patisserie in Lyon. In 2009 he was elected by his colleagues Pastry Chef of the year, but his heart remains with classic recipes. "I always distinguish between affectionate pastry and effect pastry: both belong to me, but my heart goes to the first." Like the Mattindor.
Where: Pasticceria La Caramella, Bologna
Gluten-free Divine cake
The Martesana Pastry Shop is one of the most famous in the city, and home to champions such as the pastry chef Ettore Santoro. Their specialty is chocolate, but this cake has now become their new classic: a gluten-free cake consisting of a shortcrust of rice, mango mousse and passion fruit.
Where: Pasticceria Martesana, Milan
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