From the chef bistellato a revolutionary version of the cutlet where the soft half raw and the crispy half cooked create a pleasant game. Recipe? Just clues. Covered by the patent, it will be public in twenty years …
"It all started with the opening of Locanda Perbellini in Milan and from the study of traditional Lombard dishes , says Giancarlo Perbellini. «How can we not think of the cutlet? In fact, I immediately put it on paper, in my own version and it is in great demand. But then I decided to go further, remembering the brilliant one, divided into cubes and recomposed, of Gualtiero Marchesi. From there a journey of months started to rewrite, in a modern key, the method of preparation of this dish symbol of the most international city in Italy . It's a nice provocation: the Scala chef par excellence, Michelin steak with Casa Perbellini, one of the masters of New Italian Cuisine who tries his hand on a symbol of Milan, always popular. Thus was born his cooked and raw Milanese that we tasted in preview.
A long study
Perbellini does not hide a certain pride in the realization. «Behind this dish there are many reflections, many experiments and also a lot of technique. Milanese cooked and raw, as I thought it, combines flavors, textures and nutritional contributions together. To create it I concentrated on the counterpoints, starting from the combination of opposite and complementary elements to make the palate experience a double sensation, tasty, clear and balanced ", he says. Having said that in the dish it is elegant and stylish, it immediately convinces the tasting. The game of contrasts is remarkable: the soft raw with its freshness enhances the cooked, porous and crunchy part, in a combination that brings out the decisive flavor of the veal fillet and the distinctive lightness conferred by the special breading.
Double cooking
We urged Perbellini on the preparation to know the maximum allowed by professional secrecy. Speak to him. «The fillet is cut into cylinders three cm high, subsequently breaded in half, to make visible the double cooking, in flour, egg and panko. When cooking in clarified butter, of course, one must cure the breaded half and leave the other half soft. The final step is for a few moments in the salamander. We serve it cut in two parts, accompanied by pistachio oil potatoes, abundant lemon mayonnaise and a veil of sweet chili chicken sauce ".
Served in two rooms
Perbellini has decided to protect the preparation process with a great deal of detail, and at the same time the design, or the style of the dish. And he trusted to a specialized company such as Bugnion. "For us, this patent is unique and therefore the chef appears to be a true innovator in this area", explains engineer Marco Lissandrini, director of the Verona office. "Curiously in our city, in 1894, Domenico Melegatti patented the entire production process of his pandoro. So we also have a common thread . To know the recipe in detail, it will be necessary to wait twenty years after the patent expires. Meanwhile, the Milanese cooked and raw will come out of the menu Locanda Quattro Cuochi in Verona and obviously of Locanda Perbellini in Milan, starting from the month of April. To introduce it there will be a booklet that will tell the story and secrets of this gastronomic creation.
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