The panettone is not all the same. Not even the craft one. Until a few years in addition to the industry, only a few did it, then the best could be counted on the fingers of one hand, now the competition has become ruthless
The disciplinary by decree (which applies to all)
Panettone is one of the few standards regulated by a ministerial decree, so you will never find hydrogenated vegetable fats, margarine, artificial flavors and other ingredients that are widely used by the confectionery industry in other products. Mother yeast and fresh eggs, as well as a two-leavening process, are part of the law and indispensable for affixing the Panettone label. Eggs and butter can be frozen, UHT milk, powdered yeast, candied fruit made with glucose syrup … The quality of raisins and flour can then be top, or just enough. The definable panettone, artisanal or industrial, are already good products, but it is on the raw material and the processing that the true difference is played.
Panettone artisan, what does it mean?
Panettone artisan means everything and nothing. Craftsman is literally the one who personally and professionally leads his own company by carrying out his own work, even manually, in the production process. It does not produce in series only in an automated way but with a manual processing and has a maximum number of 22 employees.
Panettone produced in hundreds or thousands of pieces are certainly handcrafted (not necessarily good). But when you exceed 10,000 pieces, 30 thousand? The Bauli to speak produces more than 8 million panettone, obviously there is no game, but the wording is still misleading. A 2003 ministerial circular reaffirms that wordings such as "artisan production" do not guarantee superior organoleptic, nutritional or health quality; also states that another analogous term, that is "hand-worked", does not increase the quality of the product and that it can be indicated as a guarantee on the method, only if it is possible to demonstrate the manual execution of all the phases of the production process.
As for ice cream, the definition of “artisan” leaves a little to the time it finds, since it only guarantees that the creaming has taken place on the spot, and not if it is made from fresh raw materials or semi-finished products to which to add just water or milk. Ditto for the panettone, it is artisanal if it is manipulated, but this does not necessarily form by form.
Emulsifiers, flavorings and semi-finished products
Emulsifiers or preservatives sorbic acid and potassium sorbate are allowed by the disciplinary and should not be demonized but mean that the deadline is being extended…. the emulsifiers guarantee a better conservation of the product in a natural way but an artisanal product without additions lasts a maximum of 40 days, within 30 it gives its maximum. If it lasts a couple of months or until March, a light bulb should light up. The aromas, natural of course, are used to give a nice scent even in the absence of long and wasteful processing such as candied fruit pastes, infusions of citrus peel, true vanilla berries (very expensive). Behind aromas and preservatives are often hidden the famous "semi-finished products", ie mixes of flour and dried yeast that make life easier for those with little experience or want to save time – they are widespread, often even sponsor of sector competitions.
The Milanese disciplinary
The Milan Chamber of Commerce registered a trademark in 2003 which certifies that the panettone is produced in a traditional way. The use of the trademark is regulated by a production regulation drawn up by the "Milanese Confectioners' Committee" consisting of representatives of sector trade associations and a consumer representative. The Panettone Tipico of the Milanese Artisan Tradition cannot be sold more than thirty days from the date of production, because it is free of preservatives, and it is not allowed to use any other ingredient, even if harmless, such as: brewer's yeast, starch, vegetable fats ( excluding cocoa butter), whey and derivatives, soy lecithin, emulsifiers, dyes, artificial flavors, preservatives (sorbic acid and potassium sorbate). Also excluded are mixes of flour, semi-finished products, mono and diglycerides and candied fruits with sulfur dioxide – which are instead granted, even in many competitions.
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