They say that the freshest fish in Italy arrives in Milan. Well, for sure it is also the most expensive one. If with typical restaurants that serve the workhorses of Milanese cuisine like ribs and yellow risotto it is easier to get by without spending exorbitant amounts, going out for dinner to eat fish is more and more like a luxury to be granted only on special occasions.
Not everything is lost, however, because there are also several restaurants, perhaps less "blazoned" than others, that offer a quality undoubtedly indisputable in the face of a more contained and "fair" spending.
Here then is a selection of the five best, where you can raise the desire for fish and not be forced to cry at the time of the bill.
La Cozzeria, Via Muratori 6
As the name suggests, the workhorses of this place in Porta Romana are mussels: tasty and luscious, are offered in many variations and are served in portions of one or a half kilo, accompanied by home-made fries. But if you do not go crazy for the classics moules et frites, do not despair: you can opt for the fresh raw – which include different types of oysters; for the delicious starters and for the first ones, among which the linguine with the Carloforte tuna bottarga and the strozzapreti with smoked swordfish, pistachios, dried tomatoes, Marsala and ricotta.
The family management and the very kind staff have made it, rightly, a solid point of reference for the Milanese: translated, you must always book in advance.
The Lighthouse, Via Marco D'Oggiono 6
The starters of the house of Il Faro have gained a certain notoriety at the loyal customers, given their abundance, variety and exquisiteness. But in this place not far from the Navigli, which combines the seafood cuisine of Sardinia and Puglia, you will also find first courses such as Lorighitas with lobster or seafood; fregola with squid ink; orecchiette with turnip tops, mussels and bottarga or with prawns and broad beans. The latter change according to the catch actually available, confirming the fact that the freshness of raw materials, here, is not transient. Warm welcome and "housewife", with a fast, precise and punctual service: for years, a certainty.
Trattoria Del Pescatore, Via Vannucci 5
"For over 40 years, a reference point for fish in Milan": nothing more true for this historic local founded in 1976, located between Porta Romana and Bocconi and recently landed also in Hong Kong. The distinctive signs? The famous loaves of bread, crunchy outside and light and soft inside, which are directly placed on the tables; the tasty Catalan lobster with red onion and tomatoes, a sort of "trademark" of the restaurant; the tradition – still alive – to offer, at the end of the meal, Sardinian pecorino directly from the form and iced myrtle. The real challenge, at Trattoria Del Pescatore, is to be able to book: arm yourself with a lot of patience, you will be rewarded!
Nerino 10 Trattoria, Via Nerino 10
Nerino 10 has long been at the top of the town's ranking of Tripadvisor and is anything but a tourist trap or a restaurant that has an undeserved reputation. Rather. The a la carte menu changes seasonally: to mention – in the winter one – the battered prawns with soy mayonnaise; Nerino tagliolini with clams and 'nduja; tagliatelle with prawns, lime and pistachio pesto; fresh grilled fish (swordfish, tuna fish, San Pietro, sea skewers); the king prawns in salt crust. The success of this restaurant has not at all mounted the heads of the owners: courtesy and kindness are never lacking, as well as a lot of substance and a rare balance between account and quality.
Zio Pesce, Via Cicco Simonetta 8 and Via Maffei 12
Do not be fooled by the fact that Zio Pesce is part of the Seven Group, a chain of restaurants that includes Seven, Joe Cipolla, Milanese Drogherie and Pescherie Riunite. In fact, in the two locations of via Cicco Simonetta (Navigli area) and Maffei (Cinque Giornate / Porta Romana) you will enjoy excellent seafood cuisine without your wallet having to suffer. To be noted, for fans of the raw, the "Nude and raw of Uncle Fish", among which stand out French prawns, sea almonds and bulots; different types of oysters; tuna tartare, salmon, red prawns from Mazzara del Vallo and cuttlefish; carpaccio of yellow fin tuna. A selection of over one hundred labels will also cheer those who do not want to renounce the accompaniment of a good wine.
Marianna Tognini
December 2018
Credit cover image: Il Faro restaurant
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