Divino pesto, green blood of basil, etymologically regal – because it means "plant worthy of King". Scent of simple, healthy and delicious cuisine. Perfume of Liguria, first of all, because the now international pesto comes from there, and only there grows the basil that makes the real pesto.
Of course the traditional recipe is the one in the mortar, and then there is the version for common human contemporary, the one that replaces the blades of the mixer with the pestle.
Here it is, the recipe:
For 3 people
2 bunches of strictly Genoese basil
1 clove of garlic (remove heart)
30 grams pine nuts
20/30 gr Sardinian pecorino (less if strong)
40/50 gr Parmesan cheese
EVO oil q.b.
Salt to taste.
Wash quickly and dry the basil (you can centrifuge it in the salad bowl), so that it does not lose the fragrance. Remove the core (the internal shoot) from garlic and break it into 4 or 5 pieces. Put in the blender or in the kitchen mixer garlic, basil, half pine nuts, a little 'mix of cheeses and a little' oil. Continue adding the ingredients by chopping at low speed to the right consistency, leaving last a little pine nuts so that it remains track to the palate of some micro piece: so you will get creamy consistency with something rustic.
Pesto à porter
And regarding i pest in jar? First of all, forget those of the big brands. The Genoese now eat mainly that of Pastificio Novella – which since 1903 produces in Sori, the second village overlooking the sea, continuing on the Aurelia to the east after the end of the urban territory. It is good in taste and is conveniently located in large retailers, throughout Liguria and partly on Piedmont, Lombardy and Tuscany. The basil is Genoese PDO but the olive oil, and not extra virgin. Then Grana Padano DOP, pine nuts, salt, garlic. Among the small artisanal producers, which ship all over Italy, stands out that of the Bottega del Pesto, really good. Small production in the eastern city, pioneer of the online selling (since 2001), each jar is closed by hand, complete with a stamp from the two hearts that declares: "FRESH BASIL – Collected & worked within 24 hours". The only flaw: it shows only Parmesan and not pecorino (like Novella, on the other hand). On the pecorino cheese the pesto Sacco is strong, which even uses the Fiore Sardo DOP. A little 'less well on other fronts, despite the basil of Prà …
Basil and pine nuts, something to know …
The basil it's that of Prà, the now well known delegation of the Genoese Ponente, where it is said that the best basil for the preparation of pesto is growing. Not always. Without taking anything away from the basilica of Prà, we would miss (in the neighborhood there is also a Park dedicated to the perfumed seedling), we report a conversation between a customer and a merchant who took place recently in a market of artisanal producers has been reported. She: "But is the basil of Prà?" – He: "Madam, we hope not!". In other areas of Genoa and in the eastern Levante, cleaner air and sweet sun can nourish a perfect and fragrant basil. The imported one is that to small leaves, without an olfactory trace of mind. The Genoese onein short, that only grows in the shadow of the Lantern … And that it's fresh: discounted? Not at all!!! "Most producers they use the so-called 'pastone', explains Laura Rondini, owner with his brother Andrea de La Bottega del Pesto – The basil is a very delicate plant, needs light and heat, so it comes harvest in summer, when the yield is so great and the prices are lowered. Then the mince and with oil and salt – or just salt – freeze it between -9 ° and -18 °: this is the 'pastone'. Do not freeze, it is a semi-finished product also of DOP brand (because the PDO is due to the production area), but eat a product with the leaf collected even the year before. To get an idea of the price: the 'pastone' costs 5 euro / kg, the fresh leaf 22 euro / kg ". The Bottega pesto is delicious, Genoese basil and EVO. Cashew nuts, which are used together with pine nuts to lower production costs a little, do not like purists but do not distort the taste. The practice of replacing – at least partially – by now luxurious pine nuts with other nuts is increasingly common, even at home, from the early 2000s. Reason? The bug of the pines, commonly called cimicione or American cudicione, "Immigrated" to Italy in 1999. Since then this parasite caused damage to no end, brutally affecting the Italian domestic pine, in the fruits of which the pine cones contain seeds and pine nuts. In the last dozen years, production has fallen by 80% and quadrupled prices. The Italian pine nuts are rare and expensive, indeed very dear compared to their main competitor, the Chinese pine nut (Beijing holds over 60% of world production). The cashew it is dried fruit with a more neutral taste, more like pine nuts – although many use them instead the walnuts which, although varying a bit 'more flavor than the original sauce, amalgamate that bit of sweetness more that can be in fact delicious.
Where to eat it in Genoa
Gesino, historical and typical trattoria Sant'Eusebio, ancient micro-village that rises to 222 m s.l.m, today Genoese district part of the central Val Bisagno. The pesto of Gesino, like all his cooking – from soup to meatballs – is genuine, all done at home by the elderly of the family, from Signora Agostina to Livio, master of the pie. In the center, very close to the Brignole station, very popular The Genoese. In the extraordinary historical city center, you can try the testaroli with pesto Cabotina, behind Via Garibaldi, where the UNESCO World Heritage palaces stand out. Or in the stoto trattoria from Ugo, where the trenette are "avantagiäe", or pesto served with its potatoes & green beans. As tradition wants. By default, now a rarity. Monsù, just as historic as the western town, Sampierdarena district, once frequented by the camalli, the workers of the port, we serve a pure and traditional pesto – to try lasagnette – as well as other typical Genoese dishes on the menu, from tripe up ( despite being once owned by Piedmontese). Further to the West, under the Sestri Ponente shipyards, Le Toe Drue (which also prepares "Ferrari" by Cappon Magro). Finally, in the delightful Boccadasse, a former fishing village near the city center, towards Levante, you can try the one of Osvaldo.
Carola Traverso Saibante
January 2019
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