On the banks of the Trasimeno: greedy Umbria that you don't expect – Italian Cuisine


The carp croquettes of the Trattoria del Pescatore in Passignano sul Trasimeno
The main room of the Casa di Francesca in Castiglione del Lago
Typical pasta with Umbricello del Coccio in Magione
Porta Senese, a modern bistro in Castiglione del Lago
Ravioli with lake ragù: classic from I Bonci a Magione
The Aquarium in Castiglione del Lago is a Slow Food Chiocciolina
70 years of goodies: From Luciano to Passignano sul Trasimeno
The elegance of the Whistle of the Blackbird in Passignano sul Trasimeno
Trasimeno fish is the protagonist in the Rosso di Sera menu in Magione
Il Molo: one of the most suggestive places on the Trasimeno

The Trasimeno is a world apart, still little known, but which absolutely deserves a tour. Few notes to frame it: it is the fourth Italian lake by surface, it is very low (from 4 to 6 meters, as sailors know well), it is surrounded by hills, it is located entirely in the province of Perugia. It is a protected area due to its high naturalistic value, with a rich flora and fauna: the La Valle oasis is one of the most famous birdwatching places in our country. It has three beautiful islands (Polvese, Maggiore which is the only inhabited area and Minore) reachable by ferry and places that invite to a stop, starting from Castiglione del Lago – with the Palazzo Ducale and the imposing Rocca del Leone – up to Passignano passing through Magione, Panicale is Città delle Pieve. In a weekend there is time to see the best.

The Bean Presidium

Local cuisine? Obviously affected by Umbrian tradition in pork butchery (ham, sausage, salami, the spectacular capocollo) and moles cheeses with caciotta which is made with half sheep's milk and half cow's milk, or only with sheep's milk, taking up the production regulations of the Tuscan PDO and subsequently flavored in various ways. Typical pasta? The umbricelli: large handmade spaghetti with soft wheat flour, water and the addition of one egg every 600 g of flour. They are kneaded on the pastry board with slightly hot water, cut into many small slices; each slice is rolled and thinned with your hands and reduced to a large spaghetti. Stock up on the only Slow Food Presidium: the Trasimeno bean, a small legume with a herbaceous and delicate taste, originally from Africa that has found an ideal habitat on the banks.

Tegamaccio, the lake cacciucco

The peculiarity of the Trasimeno cuisine however, it is represented by freshwater fish, which compares with that of the Alpine lakes. There San Feliciano Fishermen's Cooperative, in addition to providing the best local restaurants, it also has the merit of organizing sport fishing trips and experiences for beginners. The queen of the lake is the Carp of the Trasimeno, in antiquity used as a form of payment of taxes, prepared in many recipes. Then there are the eel, the royal perch (rare, but very good), the pike, the latterino which is appreciated fried and eaten whole in straw paper. The specialty? The tegamaccio: Sort of cacciucco alla livornese only made on the Trasimeno, based on fresh fish which is cut into pieces and cooked in a large pan – hence the name – together with ripe tomatoes. Tip: enjoy it in combination with a Trasimeno Gamay, expression of the Colli del Trasimeno DOC, delicate in perfume and harmonious in taste. The confirmation that an elegant and young red wine goes perfectly with a fish dish. And now our selection of the best places, you will feel good.

Trattoria del Pescatore – Passignano sul Trasimeno

Carp croquettes are one of the specialties of this historic place, housed in the old Capuchin mill, right under the castle. The mixed appetizer, the pasta with fish sauce, the perch: all tasty and at fair prices.

Francesca's house – Castiglione del Lago

A very welcoming place, two rooms with travertine and shelves full of bottles. The cuisine ranges from local specialties such as homemade tortelli with meat with truffles and fish dishes such as monkfish rolls and aubergines stuffed with prawns.

Umbricello del Coccio – Magione

The restaurant, housed in a beautiful rustic with terrace, is dedicated to one of the symbols par excellence of Umbrian cuisine: the chef-patron is a celebrity in the region. In addition to the typical spaghettone with delicious ragù, grilled meats and local specialties are served.

Porta Senese – Castiglione del Lago

A well-kept modern bistrot, with an eclectic proposal, which goes against the current compared to the places specializing in lake fish. Here is the temple of meat, raw or cooked on the grill, of various fine cuts. Great attention to wine, part of own production.

I Bonci – Magione

Practically "in the lake", next to the very active fishermen's cooperative: it is obvious that in this welcoming place the cuisine is based largely on the catch of the Trasimeno: trio of appetizers, ravioli and gnocchi, pan and carp in porchetta. Local wines.

The Aquarium – Castiglione del Lago

Great tavern – not surprisingly it's Chiocciolina Slow Food – in the historic center of the village: pici with goose sauce and chitarrini with smoked tench, wild boar stew and perfect pan. All based on excellent local raw materials, supported by a well-structured cellar.

From Luciano – Passignano sul Trasimeno

One of the "out of town" most loved by Perugians – opened for 70 years – which has changed gears for some seasons, further raising the level of the dishes and improving the cellar. Sea fish and shellfish are the protagonists, starting from a nice selection of raw fish.

Whistle of the Blackbird – Passignano sul Trasimeno

The lake is not far away, but here it is the sea fish (also raw), as well as some regional meat proposals. The environment is classic, very nice, with antique ceramic tables in the outdoor space. Also noteworthy is the cellar, which can be visited.

Rosso di Sera – Magione

Romantic and suggestive tavern overlooking the lake. If it is true that the fish of the Trasimeno is the protagonist (mixed appetizer, chitarrini with perch ragù, pan), there is no lack of good sea fish dishes and even some "contaminated" recipes. Beautiful cellar.

Il Molo – Passignano sul Trasimeno

Fixed stage for gourmets in the area, favored by the position in front of the stretch of water. Never banal cuisine, with touches of class especially on lake fish: creamed pike, artichokes and egg salad; watercolor rice with perch sauce and peas; fried eel.

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