Espresso Guide 2020: three new Hats enter – Italian Cuisine

Espresso Guide 2020: three new Hats enter


The elite of restaurants strengthens: with the Mandarin Oriental Silk, Villa Feltrinelli and the Madonnina del Pescatore become ten. The awards for the Lunch of the Year and the Plate of the Year to Riccardo Camanini and Massimo Bottura

"Little new, but very good", so the curator Enzo Vizzari defined the Italian situation, represented in the Guide to Restaurants and Italian Wines of Espresso which on the front has tested about 3 thousand restaurants, pizzerias and trattorias. A commentary has been dedicated to over 2200 and around 900 have received one or more Hats which are the unit of measure of skill for this guide. So there are 10 rooms with five hats, 27 with four Hats , 79 with three Hats, 213 with two Hats and 577 with a Hat.

The surprise is on the Garda

The news is the enlargement of the elite from seven to ten places. They conquered the five Hats on Mandarin Oriental silk of Milan, the Madonnina del Pescatore of Senigallia, Villa Feltrinelli of Gargnano on the western shore of Lake Garda. If in the first two cases we cannot speak of surprise (the "machine" of Antonio Guida is the most efficient under the Madonnina and the chef-patron Moreno Cedroni is one of the sacred monsters of Nuova Cucina Italiana), it was not expected that a "seasonal" restaurant – closed in the autumn and winter season – to achieve the highest recognition. Congratulations then to Stefano Baiocco, (from the Marche) (almost) naturalized on the lake, natural-class cook who brought to the structure of the Russian group Renova, his vision of international cuisine, very refined and with a wide use of vegetable, mostly collected in the well-kept gardens of the villa.

Confirmations and Golden Hats

It is no coincidence that he received on the stage of the Teatro del Maggio Musicale in Florence – venue of the event – the prize reserved for the Performance of the Year, given that last year he was stopped at three. The other five Hats are confirmed (Casadonna-Reale, Rosa Alpina-St. Hubertus, Le Calandre, Lido 84, Osteria Francescana, Piazza Duomo, Uliassi) while entering the group (unloved by those who are part of it) of the Golden Hats – the classics, without evaluation – Da Vittorio of Brusaporto (BG) e The Pergola of the Rome Cavalieri. For the record, the others are Cain in Montemerano (GR), Casa Vissani in Baschi (TR), Ciociare Hills in Acuto (FR), Dal Pescatore-Santini in Canneto sull'Oglio (MN), Don Alfonso 1890 in Sant’Agata sui Due Golfi (NA), Enoteca Pinchiorri in Florence, Lorenzo in Forte dei Marmi (LU), Miramonti The Other in Concesio (CBS), Roman in Viareggio (LU), San Domenico in Imola.

Special prizes

Long line of awards. The Lunch of the Year goes to Lido 84 dei the Camanini brothers in Gardone Riviera, still on Lake Garda; Maître of the Year is Thomas Piras of the Contraste of Milan, Cuoca of the Year is Alessandra Del Favero of Aga in San Vito di Cadore (Belluno), Young of the Year is Paolo Griffa of the Petit Royal of G.H. Royal and Golf of Courmayeur. The Innovation in Kitchen award goes to Inkiostro to Terry Giacomello of Parma and to Career Goes Tonino Mellino of Quattro Passi di Nerano (NA). The Milanese Joia of Milan with Pietro Leemann at the helm is instead the sustainable restaurant of the year, while the dish of the year is signed by theOsteria Francescana. Also noteworthy is the young pizza maker of the year Valentino Tafuri della Tre voglie in Battipaglia: opens the section that the Guide dedicates to the 100 best pizzerias in Italy, of which 32 are crowned with the three Pizzas (maximum score) with many well-known names in the sector.

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