Cotechino: the sovereign dish of every New Year – Italian Cuisine

Cotechino: the sovereign dish of every New Year


Cotechino and lentils, the first course ofNew Year. An extremely gluttonous and superstitious ritual favored by all of us Italians during parties but particularly on the night of New Year's Eve. He defines himself as a true king of the table, who together with "his cousin" zampone wishes us good luck for the new year. Can we still believe it after this year?

Synonymous with celebration, the warmth of home and family reunited, cotechino was defined by the historian Corrado Barberis “Strong gastronomic sociality”. Yes, because in addition to being a food often consumed in company, it is also loved by many chefs who do not hesitate to include it in the menus for these Special occasions. Everyone is captured by its flavor, its scent is unmistakable and intoxicating and its pork is tender enough to bewitch the most demanding palates.

But let's go back in time for a moment… you know that his first creation is dated 1500? In fact, it all began at the court of the Pico di Mirandola, where it is said that the citizens used it to better preserve the pork during the long siege of the city by the troops of Pope Julius II della Rovere. The product began to spread towards the end of '700, when it came to replace the yellow sausage, which he had already made famous Modena in Renaissance age. Its diffusion in the neighboring regions came with the transformation into semi-industrial structures of the first two famous charcuterie shops, Frigieri and Bellentani. Already in 1800 had become a popular and highly regarded product.

Mr. Cotechino, he calls himself, but only that of Modena, mind you. Yes, because he is the cured meat par excellence, having also received the IGP denomination in 2009. This in addition to ensuring a good intake of valuable proteins, provides good quality fats i.e. unsaturated type. Clearly being a specialty made in Italy, of cotechini there are many, in all regions, each with its own interpretation and a "top secret" concept which, if they involve the generalized use of salt and pepper, with a flavoring and preservative function, then add their own spice mix (from nutmeg to cloves, cinnamon) and wine, white or red. The result is different nuances of taste depending on the meats and spices used and their combination, which can change even within the same production area. Common denominator of all cotechini “always of swine derivation"Is the use of rind (hence the name), capable of "to tie" the dough once cooked and give it the characteristic softness, with a slightly viscous texture.

Taking a tour of our regions we discover that in Lombardy, for example, the most popular is the cotechino cremonese vanilla, so called for the particular delicacy and sweetness of the dough, which contains little rind and more cuts of lean meat. TO Mantua instead, it produces a cotechino really flavored with vanilla. In the heart of the Venetian there is the "Coeghin nostrano padovano", dark red, tasty and spicy. Typical Friulian and the "museum" (muzzle), based on muzzle flesh, savory and slightly spicy, which is served with the typical brovada (purple turnips preserved in pomace).

But remember that buying cotechino is not enough to celebrate the New Year. The traditional sausage without its beloved lentils suffers from loneliness. So why not please him? Together they are the lucky combination for excellence. Already in itself the pig is a good omen for a year of satiety and abundance: a nutritious, savory, warm, sumptuous food. It's like a amulet to ward off the specter of hunger.

of Elena Strappa

This recipe has already been read 236 times!

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