Contemporary embers between fire, foraging and fermentation – Italian cuisine reinvented by Gordon Ramsay

Contemporary embers between fire, foraging and fermentation


The embers, the first cooking method in the history of man, changes face until it becomes contemporary embers, which has been looking at new possibilities in recent years. Without betraying it, several chefs have, in fact, found a way to enhance it and make it increasingly indispensable, to offer different, original, tasty dishes.

Contemporary embers

After the recent arrival of Davide Modesti, the butcher who loves embers and vegetables, at the helm of Quintale di Erbusco, in Franciacorta, there are many chefs who have been spokespersons for this cooking method for years. Not only Errico Recanati, who brought it to the haute cuisine of Andreina to Loreto (AN)also combining the use of whiskey, but also friends chef Matteo Taccini and Luigi Senese, both born in ’92, of Uma in Rome, who combined the concepts of fermentation and “unique” with barbecue, understood as a single ingredient in the dish. The restaurant menu speaks Roman and many world languages. An ancestral Romanity, made of ancient gestures and pure products. Lots of vegetables and extreme care around the single ingredient.

From the cockerel to the artichoke

Chef Matteo Tasccini of Uma – Rome

«Making the grill is the most authentic gesture of cooking, an ancestral way of cooking. Enough with sous vide or low temperature cooking: cooking is embers” says Lo chef Matteo Taccini, convinced that, to return to real cooking, direct cooking must be preferred, especially when it comes to proteins. Any examples? Flank Steak (known by the name bavetta, part of the belly of the cattle, more precisely taken from the abdominal muscles or the lower thorax of the beef) with grethorn, a wild herb. But also the marinated cockerel. «All the meats are caramelized with Shio Koji (rice malt, koji – fermented with sea salt, shio, ed.), very quick cooking, so the caramelized taste remains, without the bitter part.

Embers of Spain and Japan

For the vegetable part, there is the king artichoke, unique, precisely; or the porcine, «always marinated Shio Koji, we caramelize on the grill, in the meantime glazed with oxidized porcini sauce, and the taste in the mouth is amazing. Although in Italy charcoal is also making its way into the highest restaurants, some countries are ahead of us. Like Spain or Japan, but with two different methods. «In Spain, for example, they use Josper oven, a charcoal oven that combines the functions of a grill and a traditional oven and reaches very high temperatures, up to 350°C, allowing rapid and uniform cooking of meat” explains Taccini. And he adds: «Then there is also the Japanese stuff, a three-level ember cooking system, three grills, on which cooking alternates depending on the food.” Like other dishes offered with this cooking method, there is also Tagliolino with grilled chanterelles and even a dessert, «cream and strawberry, with various consistencies of strawberries, grilled.

This recipe has already been read 41 times!

Proudly powered by WordPress

By continuing to use the site, you agree to the use of cookies. Click here to read more information about data collection for ads personalisation

The cookie settings on this website are set to "allow cookies" to give you the best browsing experience possible. If you continue to use this website without changing your cookie settings or you click "Accept" below then you are consenting to this.

Read more about data collection for ads personalisation our in our Cookies Policy page

Close