Cocoa in savory dishes – Italian Cuisine

Cocoa in savory dishes


Consumed by the Maya with water and chilli, initially even the Europeans "interpreted" it as a spice, perhaps to season game. Today, apart from sweets, it goes perfectly with fish. Or with unexpected firsts

By now you will all know: cocoa is born bitter, and the first drinks consumed by the Maya based on this ingredient they didn't have anything sweet at all. Nor is it attractive for European palates. Eloquent in this regard, the passage of theHistoria of the new world (1565) of the Milanese historian Girolamo Benzoni: "Its fruit is in the manner of almonds, and it is born in certain pumpkins of thickness and width almost like a watermelon … they put it in the sun to melt, and when they want to drink it, in a text they dry it with fire, and then with stones … they grind it, and put it in its cups … little by little distemperatolo it with water, and sometimes with a little of its pepper (most likely chili, Ed), the beono, which seems more like a salty drink than a man". The discovery of "sweet chocolate" will take place shortly afterwards, thanks to the sisters of Oaxaca (Mexico), who added honey, cinnamon and cane sugar. From here, the arrival in Spain and then in Italy. However, this does not mean that the "vocation" of cocoa for salted foods has completely disappeared, even in Italian gastronomy. Here then are ten savory dishes with a chocolate base. Other than "drinkable beverage"!

Capuchin cod

The most famous example is certainly a dish Friulian and Veneto, the capuchin cod. A food born in the monasteries, perhaps in Padua, perhaps elsewhere between Veneto and Friuli. Typical dish of the Lent, it is prepared by cooking the cod first in the pan and then in the oven with a mix of onions, raisins, pine nuts, nutmeg, cinnamon, bay leaves, salted anchovies, sugar, grated lemon rind, fish or vegetable broth, white wine, olive oil and grated bread, with the addition – but not in all versions – of candied citron and a pinch of cocoa bitter.

Tortelli Cremaschi

First ancient dish, strongly influenced by the Venetian cuisine and the wealth of spices guaranteed by the businesses of the Serenissima. They are prepared with a filling based on grana, raisin, candied citron, candies to the mind spicy biscuit of mostaccino, egg yolk, marsala or mistrà, broth, breadcrumbs and amaretti Cocoa hen (typical of Crema). And then seasoned with parmesan, butter and sage.

Boar In Dolceforte

Upon arrival in Italy, cocoa was initially used as a spice, especially with game. In Boar In Dolceforte, the cooking of the pork pulp takes place in a saucepan together with laurel, carrots, bitter cocoa or dark chocolate, flour, pine nuts, raisins, garlic, cinnamon, candied citron, onion, oil, celery and red wine.

Turbot in cocoa crust

Outside the desserts, the privileged combination remains the one between fish and cocoa. Like in turbot in cocoa crust, recipe particularly loved by Carlo Cracco. It is prepared simply by covering the fish of salt, cocoa, eggs, flour and oil: in baking, the aroma will filter through the fish giving it an unmistakable but unobtrusive taste. The same procedure can also be tried for sea ​​bream and sea bass.

Venetian tortelli

Another example in which cocoa goes well with pasta: they are prepared with a mixture of eggs, flour, butter and water. In the filling, spinach, butter, onion, stale bread, chocolate drops, raisins, egg, sugar, parsley, cinnamon, salt and pepper.

Potato cylinder with raw sea bream and cocoa butter and truffle sauce

In a cylinder prepared with potato, flour, egg, salt and potato flour pastry, you have a sea bream tartare. Everything is enriched by one white chocolate cream, butter, oil and capers.

Risotto with cocoa sauce

The classic risotto can be prepared with an original seasoning based on diced pumpkin and cocoa, using the growth for the creaming.

Pumpkin flowers stuffed with zucchini, amaretti and cocoa

The season of the courgette flowers is coming, and here is a truly refined filling: it is prepared by frying zucchini is onions in the oil, blending it all together with cocoa, egg yolks, parmesan and salt. And finally joining chopped macaroons. Once the pumpkin flowers are filled, they will bind with a leek ribbon before baking.

Tagliatelle with cocoa, walnuts and gorgonzola

Here the cocoa powder enters directly into the dough noodles. Dressing: walnut and gorgonzola sauce.

Moretto salato

To see it looks like a sweet, but it is not at all like this: a dough prepared with flour, water, milk, bitter cocoa, yeast, salt, extra virgin olive oil and sugar. And then stuffed with one mayonnaise cream, boiled potatoes, oil and salt.

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