Bergamo Alta? More suggestive and chic. Low Bergamo? Full of interesting surprises. Here are the premises, established or emerging, of a city that has recently found the desire to go beyond casoncelli and polenta. And that does not copy Milan …
It is good in Bergamo, in every season. Especially walking around the High City which has the peculiarity of having one of the very few historical centers of the Italian capitals (together with Ferrara, Lucca, Verona, Padua, Treviso and Grosseto) to still be completely surrounded by walls. It is no coincidence that the Venetian ramparts have been listed in 2017 among the World Heritage Sites protected by UNESCO. All the villages outside the walls make up the Lower Town, which preserves historical nuclei together with more modern areas. In any case, in both city, we work a lot (a lot, according to some …), but we also have fun, and especially at the table.
The certainties of the city
There are so many delicious situations, some of them from time immemorial – just think of what the tristellato Da Vittorio in Brusaporto, about ten kilometers towards Brescia – and more recent ones that deserve a stop. Among other things, the Cerea have just reopened (after a long and perfect restructuring) the historian Pasticceria Cavour in via Gombito – founded 240 years ago – and that the family has managed since 1994. Another certainty is Lio Pellegrini, wedding favor in via S. Tomaso with a loyal audience and a menu of excellent dishes, including meat and fish. Certainly, after Milan – to which Bergamo is not so sensitive – we are in the most interesting city for foodies, given that nearby Brescia is very strong in the province but weak inside the walls. Here is our selection.
WE
Acronym of Nuova Osteria Italiana: 30 covers in an informal environment, created and managed by two young people: Guido Gherardi in the room and Tommaso Spagnolo in the fires, returned home after great experiences for the world (Cain, Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, Elevan Madison Park …). Market cuisine, "fresh", which never gets boring. Example: bruschetta with duck livers, veal brains, butter and sage.
Fingerprints
A few weeks ago he became a Michelin star for the joy of the couple who leads him: the chef Cristian Fagone – from the illustrious mess-tin – and the dining room manager and wife Francesca Mauri. A charming restaurant with a strong personality in the kitchen, where there is a search for new combinations, contrasts and acidity. The menu ranges from influences and ingredients that come from all over the peninsula. One dish on all: Memory of a barbecue.
Balzer
The expert Vittorio Fusari leads the historic and elegant restaurant on the Sentierone. There is quality from the leavened ones for breakfast to the stucchini for the aperitif without forgetting the pastry to be consumed on the spot or to take home. The kitchen of the Iseano chef is appreciated in the bistro, at lunchtime, where his classics alternate – such as the potato and caviar puff pastry – with vegetable dishes and a large house burger.
Al Carroponte
A large space, furnished in post-industrial style. The idea came from Oscar Mazzoleni, a great wine professional who set up this multi-anime venue (informal wine bar, wine bar, wine bar and restaurant) on a mighty wine list, about 1000 labels of large and small Italian producers and foreigners. You can drink very well, therefore, even when poured and the aperitif is accompanied by a sea of delicacies.
Casual
Starry, it is a signed part of Enrico Bartolini's galaxy that opened it in a perfect corner, next to the funicular leading to San Vigilio. Ideal location, therefore, that together with a refined and very bright environment, allows you to enjoy Bartolini's cuisine, interpreted by the young Alex Manzoni and served by the maître Marco Locatelli. Menu that obviously reflects the ‘be contemporary’ philosophy.
Al Donizetti
It opens at eleven o'clock for the aperitif and closes at midnight: in a very central position, evocative inside and fantastic outside, it is above all one of the most complete Italian wine bars with 700 references from all over the world. Not by chance is one of the very few Three Bottles of the Gambero Rosso. For those who also want to stop for lunch, there are cold cuts and above all excellent cheeses such as simple dishes of the regional tradition
Osteria al Gigianca
The top also for Slow Food. For seven years, Gigi Pesenti and Alessia Mazzola have been serving creamed cod with polenta croutons, risotto with peppers and missoltino pâté in addition to the inevitable casoncelli alla Bergamo among the first, while among the latter Bergamo rabbit with polenta is particularly popular. the giant Bergamo sheep with potato cream and beetroot chutney.
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