At the Mart in Rovereto Alfio Ghezzi brings a local and seasonal cuisine to a magical place, to give the guest a unique and all-encompassing experience
Territory, simplicity and consistency: on these concepts is based the kitchen of Alfio Ghezzi, the chef of the Locanda Margon who, from October 22nd, is the host of the Café and Restaurant Space of Mart, the Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art of Rovereto. On the ground floor of the building renovated by the architect Mario Botta a large room welcomes customers in what is a space divided into two areas, one dedicated to the Bistrot, where you can have breakfast and lunch, and one at the restaurant, where you can try a more refined experiential cuisine. «In my menu, explains the chef, «there will be only seasonal and local products mainly. In these months carrots and sauerkraut, the two main vegetables of this period, will have a prominent place .
The Bistrot and the restaurant
The two souls of the space will have separate lives: the Bistrot will open from 9 am with breakfast, until 7 pm and the gastronomic part only in the evening. The most challenging job will be the Bistrot, which will have a card that would be suitable for the whole day, with proposals ranging from salads to desserts, but also to pizzas. "There will be one pizza with a shovel, very crunchy, and the one in the wheel, higher and stuffed with cheese and salami , explains the chef. In addition, there will be sandwiches, 4 in all and the desserts will be leavened, such as the veneziana and the krapfen, as well as those from credenza, of carrots, of apples and a version of Sacher by the chef, made with theoil Garda Trentino Dop instead of butter. At noon for those who decide to take a longer break, there will be two menus: one "Strolling in Trentino", strongly linked to the territory, and the other that celebrates the classics of Italianness. In the evening, instead, the tasting menu, a guided offer to the most important extent, which will then be chosen by the guest. At the end of the second, customers will be able to visit the kitchen, get to know the brigade and enter the heart of the restaurant. For a 360 ° experience.
The a la carte menu
In the proposals of Alfio Ghezzi the same ingredients can be followed, from the starter to the first and then to the second, but with different shapes and textures, because the philosophy of his kitchen involves the use of everything that can be obtained from a food, without throwing anything away, experimenting with different and surprising cooking methods and textures. Thus among the starters there is the "Carrot", a composite dish, in which this vegetable is declined in natural, passed in the oven and shredded like a tartare. The end parts were instead grilled and then used for a centrifuged. «Here we tried to create the acidity element using tarragon, this very balsamic herb, which can only be dipped in the centrifuged or left in infusion, to give an even more decisive taste, and then we wanted the fatness, the body of the dish, through the creme fraiche, a cream made with a part of milk and a part of cream and the globules, made to ferment, enclosed in a wafer, to give a bit of roundness to the whole ", the chef warns. Another appetizer, "Sauerkraut", it consists of a part of sauerkraut and a chicken liver parfait. «The starting point is the idea that gave me a French cook who became very famous in 1983, who had included in one of her recipes fatty liver and artichokes, that is, he put together two elements so far apart. We have played on this combination, but using the ingredients that are closest to us, the livers, and a half vegetable half dish was born ". The hen then returns as a filling of a first, "Plin" very delicate ravioli with transparent dough, in a cream of sour butter and mountain saffron.
The art in the plate
In the evening menu will enter a dish dedicated to Isadora Duncan, the American dancer whose monograph is hosted inside the Mart. Extraordinary and countercurrent woman, she rejected the idea of classical dance to get closer to the ancient dance, the one without the shoes, but with bare feet. «The dish that will be returned to Isadora will have something that will refer to the movement, to the earth and to the veils it loved to wear. I like the idea of get inspired by art, from the beauty of this place. After all even the kitchen is a form of art, and beauty is a source of inspiration for everything. I am in a magical place, which gives me incredible energy. I believe there are all the conditions to do a good job . We are already convinced!
Credits: Jacopo Salvi
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