The low pizza in Milan is a classic, frozen in time and without anything glamorous. Here are 10 pizzerias to eat like in the nineties, plus one that tries with a contemporary version
The world of pizza did not have MasterChef, but it has evolved as much as that of the kitchen. Research on doughs, flours, cooking, increasingly elaborate toppings and selection of raw materials on a par with great restaurants. From daughter of a minor god of catering, pizza makers have become stars and their local places of worship. But not if we are talking about low pizza in Milan.
The pizzerias that churn out low pizza in Milan seem to have stopped in time, like frozen in the 1990s: for furniture, menus, communication. But they survive, while more and more elegant, cool clubs flourish all around, competing for customers with restaurants.
The world of low pizza
While pizzerias have grown in number, prices, services and are beating the restaurants with wines, beers and cocktails, practically nothing has changed in the low pizza scene. Literally: even html websites with graphics in Microsoft Word 90 and take-away is preferred for delivery; also in 2021. Paper placemats with the menu stamped, covered grinding rooms, photocopy menu by dozens and dozens of voices.
The low pizza is not on the radar of lovers of "gourmet pizza" or even simply the well made one. It is the pizza of the past, the one without any allure of glamor, of which you do not know the leavening hours and the name and surname of the tomato producer. They even put mayonnaise or pink sauce in it and seasons don't exist. Someone turned to alternative doughs, such as Be Bop, to satisfy the intolerant; there are those who try without yeast, like Amami; but the formula is generally that of Da Geppo or Pizza Ok. And the proof that low pizza has its admirers is the queue outside Coke every night of the week.
Low pizza in Milan
Low pizza in Milan is just “low pizza”, he doesn't even call it “alla romana”, and certainly a movement of pizza makers has not been born that wants to brush it off to make it trendy again. But they like it, and indeed in the desert of innovation it has sprung up Crocca: clever parody of low pizza or, better, its gourmet version. The idea came to the dream team that created Pizzium. Marghe, Gelsomina and Giolina and who has thought of a new format of pizzeria with a deliciously retro flavor … It's called Crocca and tries it by proposing itself as the return of crunchy pizza, that of the past, round, generous and with the strong and simple flavors of Italy in the 70s and 80s. Crocca wants to satisfy the desire for thin and delicious pizza, but with excellent raw materials and following very accurate processing procedures. There are 40 varieties of pizzas, including the must-haves of the pizzerias of the past such as Capricciosa, Quattro Stagioni, Diavola and Calzone; or proposals such as Amatriciana, pizza with meat sauce and Lasagna.
It is undoubtedly better, the ingredients of a high standard, the environment is nice, but Pizza Big fans continue to like Pizza Big. But there is no question about guilty pleasure.
Gallery curated by Jacopo Giavara.
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